homemade bandsaw mill, help

[gww]

I believe it feels better to be nice, I wish I felt good all the time but I don't.
Thanks for the help
gww

[Ox]

"I'm willing to bet you're gruff outside and nice on the inside.  I am."  I would never admit that. ;)

:D  Good one

[dustyhat]

Been following along ( gww) and i like your determination and ambition . keep up the good work.

[gww]

Dusty
Thanks for the encouragement.
gww

[gww]

They say if it was easy girls could do it.



 



Girls arn't dumb enough to want to.

The mill is cutting great and strait since the guide.  I did break two more belts but consider them to be due to operator error.  I ran the guide into a log that was lose enough to move hard into it and stop everything.  I am kinda glad I had the small belt on as it snaped immiediatly..  I also broke the big belt but figured out the cause and it is somthing not hard to watch.  The pully on the motor is walking out and throwing the belt.  The allen won't tighten enough to stop it but it takes a long time and is easy to watch.  It gets a little far out and bam with the hammer and it is back in place for some more logs.  I have the belt tensioner on the opisite side of the motor pully.  I cut two short logs and everyting is peachy including the drive wheel belt. Here is a stupid picture to show the uniformity of the cut.



 

So any way I am about a third done on the shed and have to cut some siding and maby roofing.

Update done.
cheers
gww

[Ox]

Looking real good, gww!  You should be proud of yourself.  I would be.  Nice shed, it really is.  It's gonna look even better with homemade b&b on it.  If it were mine, it'd be hard to sell since it's made all from scratch.
Find you some red locktite and smear it all over that shaft and setscrew for your pulley and put the pulley back on and let it sit overnight, it won't move again.  If you have to take it off later, some heat applied to it will let it loose again.  That moving back and forth will be bad in the long run.  It'll just get looser and looser until some major work will have to be done to fix it.
Your mill is cutting sweet going by the pic of that little sticker.  Just as good as mine or anybody's!  Thank God, right?  :D
I'm so glad to see things are working out for you.  It's been a longish road, ain't it?

[gww]

Ox
I am kinda proud of it now but am  scared about six months down the road.  I don't know what to expect with the green boards and don't want to set anyone up for a fall.  will they shrink and bow and make what is strait now look crooked.  I also am not sure of the straitnes now.  I won't know for sure till I start putting perlings on.  I am less worried about the siding although I am going to try to come up with about 54 eight inch one bys.  I have about 15 oak at this point but am going to get a couple of cedar logs tommorrow.  I might mix and match if I think I can make it look good.  I am also considering the roof.  If I go tin, it is strait farward and if I go asfault I have to cut even more one bys but lenth is less important.  I am leaning towards asfault as it will take more wood but I like the look. 

The above decisions are making it hard to come up with a price to ask for it.  It is going to look nice I think when newly finnished.  It might take shims to get really strait lines.  It also is a lot of work.

It is worth $1500 in the new condition and has the wood in it to justify that price.  If it shrinks and bows or rots cause it doesn't have treated joist and rails then it will still last a long time but may only be worth $200.  It would then not be worth doing again (not that I want to).  I have learned how far a pile of wood would go and only misjuged on the one bys.  It takes quite a few loggs of the 15 inch diamiter to make a shed.

I really don't want to set anyone up for a fall and may have to keep it for 6 months are so to answer some of these questions.  The biggest question being how does building with green wood change after being built with time.

Either way I am going to get to use the saw some as I need about 40 more one buys to do the siding not counting the roof.

Any thoughts on the above?

I also am suprized but the motor is using lots of oil and is not really giving any signs of it.  I don't know how long it is going to last.  It doesn't seem to smoke bad and starts well and has no power issue but can only be a matter of time till it dies.  It is cutting great.

I doubt I use the lock tight right off due to the question of the motor and maby wanting to salvage the pully if all goes bad.  The pully has a key way and if it gets too lose I could always tack a small weld and not hurt too much if the motor is really on its way out.  It is running so well I hope not but I can't denigh the oil loss.

The mill is cutting sweet. 

I think moving the shed and hauling it is going to be hard.  It is tall and heavy and wide.  If I tried to put it on dads trailer I would not get past the wheel wells.  Now is when we find the real screw ups.  The siding and roof line will tell a lot.
Ox
I am always thankfull for your intrest and positive supportive attitude.  It makes posting the good and bad something to look forward to.  It has been a long road but one I am not sorry I traviled even it the motor blows tomorrow.  I have found this exciting and interesting.  I also was drinking a few beers with my sisters and mom and dad today and got to tell the leggman story and all where duelly impressed. 
Thanks
gww

[plowboyswr]

Gww, I have to say that I have enjoyed this thread. Now then as to your "walking" pulley, have you got a bearing lock collar that will fit your out put shaft? You can use it to keep the pulley in place, we have done this several times to get us by out here on the farm. Of course we keep a stock of lock collars on hand. It would get ya by but you'll need to replace it before too long.

[thecfarm]

I built the wife a Women Cave with all green lumber. Cut the tree,haul it to the mill,pound nails in it. Sometimes all within 2 hours since the tree hit the ground. BUT all my buildings are like a shed. All open,no interior walls to keep the moisture in. When putting 2 boards together,like boarding an exterior wall,they will each shrink about a ¼". Usually less,but there is still a gap.

[gww]

Plowboy and Thecfarm
Thanks for the suggestions, I don't have a stock of collors around anymore.  I cut pretty low volume and an just going to watch the pully for now (probly to my detrament).  On the siding, I expect some shrinkage but if I come up with enough boards it will be 3 inch battons on 8 inch boards, so it should have lots of room for shrinkage as long as it doesn't fall off.  I also have no interier cover plans as it is just a shed or chicken house or whatever.  What worrys me most is rot near the bottom and the lines of the shed going all crooked and making it an embarresment for who ever has it in there yard.  I haven't got the roof and siding on and when I put it on it may already have waves that are noticable that I am not smart enough to cover.  I will just do my best.  I will at least know what it looks like at that time.  I am just hoping it doesn't change dramatically down the road.  I have seen houses that have really crooked rafters and they don't look that good.  This is a smaller area to try and control and I hope to do good but I will be honest,  doing my best, me and measuring tapes don't get along real well.  I am heartened by your experiance though.

My dad has a new farmer and he brought a dozer out to clean up access to all the feilds and I am headed out there to see if I can salvage any logs.  Mom says there are three bigg cedars and a leaning tree.  It is already hot so I need to get moving.
Thanks for the comments and advice.
gww

[Ox]

Board and batten siding is good for when all you have is green lumber for siding.  The very nature of this type of siding allows for shrinkage without leaving gaps.  You'll be fine here as long as you overlap at least 1/2" on each side of the batten.
As for the framing - I put up green red pine when I took out most of the second floor, really it was a half-story, above my shop and had to put some large bracing in the corners running from halfway up the wall to halfway up the rafters.  It shrunk down enough that it left up to 1/4" gaps where they were nailed.  I just came along afterwards and pounded them back flush with a heavy framing hammer.
Using shims under nailers or purlins to get them straight and plumb isn't unusual in sheds and barns when not using engineered trusses.  Take a straightedge and your eyes to see if you have any sags or humps.  Unfortunately, there's always a risk when using green lumber because it can still do anything it wants.  Nails will help hold things where you want when drying out but the fact remains that if a board really wants to move there ain't much gonna stop it.  If it came off the mill reasonably straight and hasn't bowed much yet chances are it'll be OK.  Using seasoned lumber most of the movement is done so you know what you have to work with.
You can take some used motor oil and slather it on the bottom to help with rot.  Don't let the tree huggers know about this.  You can say that you mixed some charcoal with linseed oil if anyone asks.  Or use some black asphalt "paint" for fences and roofs.
Thicker oil will help with the oil usage in your engine.  However, that's a very fine line because a splash lubrication engine like you have (any engine without an oil filter) needs thin enough oil to get splashed around until it warms up.  If the oil is too thick in there it'll just act like molasses or honey and not get splashed up around.  I've used up to 15W-40 diesel oil in tired engines like that, but only in the hot summer months.  It helps some.  Winter has to be back to 10W-30 or 40 unless you preheat the engine and oil inside for the initial start.
I hope you find at least one thing out of this rambling helpful or useful!  Thanks for keeping us posted.  There's more people following this thread than you think, I believe.

[Joe Hillmann]

I wouldn't worry too much about the engine dieing anytime soon.  I have a 7 hp that when I first got it running would burn up a quart of oil in about 15 minutes.  You couldn't see it through the smoke.  After a few hours of run time the rust on the rings must have broke loose and now a quart of oil lasts 1 1/2 and keeps the bugs away cause of the smoke.  I had planned to replace it once it died but two years later it still runs like a top.

[Ox]

Amazing, isn't it?
I pulled an old Sears engine powered compressor from the dumpsters years ago.  Engine was set up but compressor was spinning.  Pulled the plug and put Marvel in it, got it loose and it still runs.  Burns oil, hardly any compression, but runs.
Engines are like the human body.  It's amazing what they will endure but equally amazing what little it takes to shut them down.

[Leggman]

I have used z max on old engines before with great results. Makes them like new

[gww]

Ok guys, thanks for the help.  The motor is still cutting so it is still thumbs up.  I bought the motor new probly 17 or more years ago on a tiller from western auto.  I tore the tranny apart twice and replace gears.  It has been used hard.  The last time it was used was probly 4 or 5 years ago and I had never changed or had to add any oil in all that time.  It set for the 4 years and when I got it back it started on the third pull.  My uncle may have started it before I went and got it, I don't know.  Every body talks bad about briggs motors but I have had really good luck since I never change to oil and only check it sparatically. 

I may or may not try the Z thing as I have a hard time remembering what I need when I get to a store.  I will definatly try it if I remember but probly won't make a special trip.  I hope I remember.

Thanks
gww

[Ox]

I like Briggs engines.  They've always worked well for me.
Tecumseh on the other hand...  The engines are good and tough but I've never had a carburetor on any Tecumseh that worked well.

[gww]

I cut two more logs into 8 inch one bys for the shed siding.  I can't believe how much wood an 8x10 shed takes.  I judged well enough on the framing stuff but the floor and siding and maby roof is taking ungodly amounts of wood.

The saw cut great.  The guides are holding up well.  I broke my tension pully again at the swivil piont where it had broke once before.  I was in the middle of a cut and finnished and it cut fine so I cut another log and it cut fine.  The belt seems really lose but is not slipping when running so I am going to use it like it is till I have problims. 

I am still on my 7th blade and have did several logs and I am still using it.  I believe I have gotten my hoped for 200 board foot or more out of it.  I need to find the vidio I watched and thank that guy cause the little trick of grinding on the back of the blade where the pionts are makes it cut like new every time I do it.  My blades may not be doing better but this makes them last for me.  It may only hold for a half of log to a whole log but that is all I was getting with new blades.  I am not recommending every one do it but since I don't know of a resharp shop next to me, it works really well for me. 

I have one wall of board and batton on the shed.  Long way to go.

Two logs in one day is close to a record for me.  I cut them from the woods to the mill.  I do waste a lot of time looking for which tree to cut but this amount really wore me out. 

Update done
gww

[Ox]

Thanks for the update, gww!

It takes so much more wood and work to get things done from scratch, doesn't it?

2 trees from woods to mill to boards is really good in my book.  I can only get 2 trees down, bucked, and staged and I'm about done.  Body can't take it.   >:(

I wish I was there to help ya.

[gww]

I cheated today.  I had dads tractor.  It was only one tree.  I got 2 eleven foot logs out of it.  They were about 14 inche on the small side of the butt log.  They were already dead and I lost some edge but the middle looked like good wood.  I would say I got 15 1x8 and maby 10 3x1 and two 3x1.75.  I end up with that cause my mill only cuts at its lowest to 1.75 inch. 

I put a long day in to get that and got 5 batons drilled and nailed up on the shed and then just gave out and had to quit.

I am thinking it is going to take a minimum of four more logs as good as that to finnish the shed walls and maybe get a good start on the roof boards for asfault unless I poop out and just go with metal. 

Doing it from scratch is hard.  Not being able to drive a nail with out drilling doesn't help.  I was able to drive some of the boards without drilling and then today the battons had to be drilled.  I am pretty bad with a hammer to begin with.  It makes plywood for floors and metal for everything else seem like a better deal.

It may not be a better shed but it won't look like the other stuff I have built in my life.  Maby I should just start making out houses and selling them.  It sorta reminds me of them.

Thanks for looking.  I will post some picts if I ever get done, good or bad.  I will take all comments good or bad.

I do love how the mill is working right now.  Even the drive belt is staying pretty consistant and not tearing itself apart or stretching all over the place.  Knock on wood of course.
gww

[Ox]

I'm really happy your mill is working well!  That's a feeling that's hard to describe, when your creation works and works well.

That last 1.75 that you can cut to - you always want 2 x whatever for framing, right?  Just remember that and always try to leave the last board at 2" and you'll constantly keep getting framing lumber.

It sucks having to pre drill holes for nails.  I remember in the past working with such hard, seasoned wood that even screws were snapping off and bending over on themselves.  Unreal sometimes, ain't it?

Doing this work sure sheds a new light and new found respect for the old timers, doesn't it?  Imagine having to make hand split shakes/shingles for your roof!  And hand hewing your beams and splitting logs lengthwise for boards!

I remember reading an article somewhere that the settlers would burn their house down when they wanted to move because nails were so hard to find and expensive.  They would pick the nails out of the ashes and use them for the next house build.  Hard to imagine.  Of course, each nail was made individually, one at a time by hand by a blacksmith.  That's hard to imagine as well!

I think of things like this and it sure puts my life in perspective.  :P

[gww]

I told somebody recently that if you did anything out of the ordinary in the old days,  You had to be truely inovative.  Now days you can do almost anything and all you need is the internet.  You don't have to be very smart at all.
gww

PS  I have helped my dad split logs lenth ways while young to make stave bolts.  If he got layed off from work we would make a few staves for dough.

[gww]

I decided to go with metal for the roof.  About $81 before taxes.  That will save me lots of one bys and I think is cheeper then the shingles and tar paper.
gww

[Leggman]

sounds like you are making good progress on the shed. I would like to see pics.

[Ox]

I think metal roofing is best for the same reasons you mentioned.  Lighter, too.

[gww]

Leggman and ox
I was hoping to be done by now.  It is getting hot out.  I have three side almost sided and still need to do the front and make a door.  I need four more hinges and I went shopping cause I had to take money to the bank and I made a list and everything and still forgot the hinges and knew I was forgetting something while I was shopping.  I have been thinking for three days trying to remeber what the boards are called that you put over the eves and put tin on.  I am going to go back a couple of post where ox metions it just to remember.  Oh well, enough belly acking. 

I was going to put up pictures when I got it done but I may never get done so I will try to take a few of progress.

Leggman, will you get to the cutting point on your mill this weekend?  I can't wait.

I broke blade seven today.  I did get several logs out of it and it was my longest running blade.  Its a shame cause I had just took the grinder to it and it was cutting pretty good.

It is unbelievable how good a new blade cuts.  It is a shame it doesn't last longer before it quits cutting like that.

I tried one of my old blades but the set was compleetly gone and it went to instant dive.  I guess I will mark the cost ot the first six blades to the cost of building the mill.  I am not going to try the other 4 cause by the time you have to straiten out a bad cut in the log it is not worth it.  The should have me getting pretty close to having $500 to $600 in the mill.  I have lost count but know I have at least 5 belts to add and was at 340 not counting blades before.

The mill is cutting strait boards,  I cut another dead 11/12 inch log already this morning.  I got I think five 1x8s and maby five 1x3.  not a lot but boards I need.  Its better then the log yesterday that I got down to a cant and quit cause it had a rot spot going through the middle coming from a knott.  These are old dead trees I am milling.  I think I am going to have a bond fire cause the scrap boards have gotten ahead of me.  I was cutting them into poor fire wood cause I hate waste.  I would put an add on craigs list and give them away but there is not quite enough and my yard is not dry enough to drive in with a truck loaded with wood.  It is enough to be crowding my milling area though.  I am going to nail up my new boards and then try and get one more log today if it doesn't make me quit cause I got to hot.

I will try and get a picture posted cause I am sure somebody needs a laugh.

Ox,  I wish I had an answer for your threaded pipe and dust problim but had no clue so couldn't answer your thread.
Thanks for the interest.
Cheers.