Chain Saw mills

MakitaDcs400 · January 10, 2005, 05:17:33 PM

I was wondering how do you all find your chainsaw mills for sawing (as far as speed) ? Are they as fast as a small bandmill ? And what size chain saw would you reccomend for cutting logs up to 30 inches in diameter ? If I go to get a chainsaw for a saw mill I want to also use it for cutting the trees I will be milling as well (weight of the saw wont matter too much).. I was looking into getting a band mill or a circular mill but I think getting something a little simpler would be better considering it will be mainly used for personal use..
Oh and before I forget do the chainsaws hold up well to milling ?
Thanks

weimedog · January 10, 2005, 06:02:22 PM

I got my Granberg Alaskan mill on eBay from "Saw King" It is really hard work but has completely changed the scope of projects this family can take on. That are not as fast as a bandsaw mill and you really better be the physical type. BUT they get the job done if your expectations are set right. We use ours to creat rough cut lumber from farm related projects like stalls and barn repairs. At this point I couldn't justify a band saw mill. The Alaskan mill is too capable and certainly put a hold on that band saw investment.

Think 100c or larger for older saws like mine..my McCulloch is a one pull starter and has milled enough lumber for 7 horses stalls last month. No problems to this point.

On newer saws think over 80cc. Like a Husqvarna 385 or larger. More is better. The continuous nature of the load on a saw would lead you to think its hard on a saw. ...I haven't seen any signs of duress on my anchient old 797 McCulloch. I run 100LL Av-gas and Mobil One MX2T two stroke oil and the saw runs cool. Loose a bit of power running the higher Octane but the plug is tan and the Cooling Fins are actually cool enough to put your hand on after a cut.

The one component where I do see more wear is the clutch.

I use a 36inch sproket tip bar for a larger Stilh (suggested by Sawking eBay seller) with a 3/8 chain. I tried a .404 bar/chain combo and the 3/8 skip chisle chain gived a better fininsh at is easier to keep the saw on the powerband. The finish is good enough for the barn yard stuff we do. You would need a planer to make it finish quality...one thing is a band saw will give a much better finish.

Most of what I mill is 24inch to 30inch in diameter. the practical limit is 30inches from what I have found with my mill. Also I mill all hardwood. Hardwood Maple and Ash most recently.

Anyway its a do-able thing but is hard dusty tough work. I happen to like it and its another way to excersize my old saw( A hobbie of mine). Also it fits well with our fire wood operation required to heat our place during these long Central New York Winters!

Kevin · January 10, 2005, 06:04:19 PM

Chain saw milling is hard work.
Good for remote locations but hard on the back .
You need a big saw, and it really works best with two saws, at least for me.
It's much slower than a band saw.
My advice would be get a small band saw to start out with and if it doesn't work out then sell it.

weimedog · January 10, 2005, 06:25:53 PM

One more thing.

I spend around $200 dollars on the Granberg Mill Attachment and around $200 on the Saw. Complete ready to mill.

I have cut enough to create over 250 2X8X12ft boards. If I was to buy that it would be in the area of $3000 for the lumber from a mill or lumber yard. It would cost me at least $5000 for a band saw mill that can't handle the size trees I mill! Add another few hundred to EXTEND the band saw mill and you in the 6000 - 7000 dollar range for a 3000 dollar project...doesn't make sence.

AND now that we have figured out how to make this thing work for us it has just complete changed the scale of project we are able to take on. We cut our trees in the Fall/Winter time frame and then have logs we can cut to length required by a given project5 and chainsaw what we need for that project. Since ours are a never ending series of small unpercise projects its almost impossible to not factor a chainsaw mill into the projects. The flexibility in capability and schedulaling is priceless. for us. Best 400 bucks I have ever spent.

As I posted on another website we do have a very large project looming on the horizon where we can plan lumber requirements and the quantity is enough to justify a band saw mill...but thats another few years down the road as we tear into those projects we can do with the Alaskan Mill and I still enjoy building and running my old chainsaws.

oldsaw · January 10, 2005, 09:31:20 PM

How much do you want to do? If you are planning on milling a bunch o' logs, you won't be happy with a chainsaw mill. If you just want to slice up a handfull every once in a while, then a chainsaw mill looks good.

Can you move the logs where you need them to be cut. If not, the chainsaw mill wins again. I've cut a whack of boards that I could haul out of places I could never get a vehicle in to remove the log.

If you are going to do primarily big logs, a chainsaw mill looks better again, since it takes a big expensive mill to handle the big stuff. The last couple of times I've had my mill out was to trim some really big logs to fit on a mill. You could always hire a mill for the stuff you don't want to chainsaw mill.

Like the other guys said, it is a bunch of work, its hard on your back, is slow going, but for all I do, it was the perfect solution. If you are going to get a 36" mill, get a 42" bar, I've got 5-6" of mill going to waste until I replace my bar (It doesn't have long to go). I'm into my whole set with 3 chains for less than $600. Got the saw on ebay, well used, but a good runner. You will need a big saw. I'm running a Stihl 066 and even just shy of 100ccs, I'm running out of power a bit too often. Full skip chain helps, as well as helps keep the kerf clean. Wishing I had an 088 until I want to use it as a chainsaw, then the 066 looks pretty nice. Good all-arounder.

I could probably even lose some weight if I did it more often.

WoodSmith · January 10, 2005, 10:06:23 PM

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but you lose almost a 1/2" of wood per finished board do to the larger kerf of the chainsaw? If you got plent of logs I guess it doesn't matter much. But I tell you what it is a great experience milling up your own boards with a chainsaw mill in a remote location.
I found that it helped to have a smaller saw and a beam cutter for cutting beams as well as cutting some of the boards down to smaller sizes.

rebocardo · January 11, 2005, 09:22:04 AM

I am using a ProCut chain saw mill (chain saw on a small trailer for a log deck). Basically, just roll the log unto the small trailer, which you can move by hand, and start cutting.

Nothing to set up for your first cut and you cut standing.

I am using a Husky 365 which limits me to about 16 inches, though 12 inches is the best cutting speed, with a 28 inch bar. You really need a 90+ cc so you can run a 32-36 inch bar.

I have found once properly set up you can saw about 12 feet a minute making 12"x2" stock using the ripping chain from Bailey's in white oak and it comes out looking planed. Being level and square really counts for making speed.

Greg · January 11, 2005, 10:08:20 AM

QuoteI was wondering how do you all find your chainsaw mills for sawing (as far as speed) ? Are they as fast as a small bandmill ? And what size chain saw would you reccomend for cutting logs up to 30 inches in diameter ? If I go to get a chainsaw for a saw mill I want to also use it for cutting the trees I will be milling as well (weight of the saw wont matter too much).. I was looking into getting a band mill or a circular mill but I think getting something a little simpler would be better considering it will be mainly used for personal use..
Oh and before I forget do the chainsaws hold up well to milling ?
Thanks

I have had great success using a Granberg mini mill to cut cants/beams from logs, with my 65 cc Jonsered and a 24" bar. My saw is a little undersized, but it works well for me on the smallish logs - 14 to 18" - I usually have access to.

Beyond that use, I would call chainsaw mills "sawdust mills" because that is what you get alot of. The 3/8" or more kerf wastes ALOT of wood. I couldn't imagine cutting alot of boards with one. It is a slow and messy process.

Somebody told me recently there are portable bandsaw mills you can take right to the log as well. I don't know much about these. Definitely more $$$ than a chainsaw mill, but better suited for cutting lumber.

Greg

MakitaDcs400 · January 11, 2005, 12:53:51 PM

A couple of things I left out above ! I want to try to keep this as cheap as possible

... 99% of the logs I will be cutting will be from 8 inches in diameter to about 18 inches I may have a few bigger. I was looking at an 18 inch band mill but I looked and found that the bigger husky and stihl saws have more horse power than the engine on the mill I was interested in.. I do have quite a few logs to cut. The lumber I need doesnt need to be smooth it can be rought im using it to build a fence, garage, and a cabin. I was thinking if I went with the chainsaw mill that id go with a 395xp husky and run it with a 24 inch bar. A 24 inch bar is all I should need and anything bigger would rob power for no reason. I do have my makita for cutting the trees anyways so id probably just leave the saw on the mill instead of trying to use it for everything !
How well do the clutch hold up in saws used for milling >
Thanks for all the advice..

Avalancher · January 11, 2005, 05:24:24 PM

QuoteA couple of things I left out above ! I want to try to keep this as cheap as possible ... 99% of the logs I will be cutting will be from 8 inches in diameter to about 18 inches I may have a few bigger. I was looking at an 18 inch band mill but I looked and found that the bigger husky and stihl saws have more horse power than the engine on the mill I was interested in.. I do have quite a few logs to cut. The lumber I need doesnt need to be smooth it can be rought im using it to build a fence, garage, and a cabin. I was thinking if I went with the chainsaw mill that id go with a 395xp husky and run it with a 24 inch bar. A 24 inch bar is all I should need and anything bigger would rob power for no reason. I do have my makita for cutting the trees anyways so id probably just leave the saw on the mill instead of trying to use it for everything !
How well do the clutch hold up in saws used for milling >
Thanks for all the advice..

I built my own chainsaw mill for around $300 , and mounted a Husky 372 to it. I Keep a Husky 350 for the bucking and trimming. What ever you do, have an assortment of bars and chains on hand, and mill with the smallest bar you can get away with. Long bars use horsepower, and you will notice a big difference between a 20 and a 24 inch when it comes to milling. Grind your chains to a mere 10 degrees instead of the standard 30 degrees and your lumber will come out smooth enough to sand with a sander, no planing will be necessary.
You lose more wood to the kerf than with a bandmill, but the mill is more portable and lighter. I load mine into a small trailer, go to my site and do my milling. After the day is over I roll the mill back into the trailer and slide the lumber in underneath the mill and home I go. I can mill about 500-600 bdft a day, depending on what kind of cut, type of wood, and how often I sit around and complain.

leweee · January 11, 2005, 06:01:16 PM

Check this outhttp://www.ripsaw.com/ Bandmill Kerf powered by a chainsaw ;D

MakitaDcs400 · January 11, 2005, 06:10:49 PM

I may try and come up with the money for a 3120XP and run a 24 inch bar on that.. That set up shouldn't be too bad ?

bobserve · January 11, 2005, 08:01:57 PM

hi am in the tropics of north queensland australia .and run a 4ft 6"bar powered by a honda 13hp motor ,on a homemade frame ,similar to a bandmill frame . advantages of chain over band saw for me is simple to sharpen and general ease of use .run a chain with 2teeth and next 4-5 pair ground out .cuts just as quick ,but is a lot easier to sharpen ,and doesnt make hard work when ripping walnut, can and do cut the full width of bar,and maybe slow ,but beautifully smooth when sharpened correctly at 10degrees. cheers fron australia bob

Ianab · January 11, 2005, 10:52:03 PM

Hi Bob and welcome to the forum
Allways good to get anouther member from 'Down Under'

Sounds like your machine is similar to a Lucas or Peterson dedicated slabber?
They seem to work well for slicing up those lovley wide slabs.
I'm sure the DIY guys here would like to see some pictures of your setup if you can manage it.

Makita

3120XP or a Stihl 088 are probably the best milling saws around, and with a small bar like that it should cut reasonably quick.

As an aside my mill is a swingblade powered by a chainsaw, old model Peterson. It works well although more power and less noise like the new ones would be nice. Now if you could find yourself an 090 saw, that would be the thing for chainsaw milling ;D

Ian

I'd still suggest you consider a bandmill if you have a lot of logs to saw. Chainsaw mills do work, they are very portable, they are a cheap way to break down big logs but they just aren't a very efficient way to saw normal sized logs.

Furby · January 11, 2005, 10:53:45 PM

MakitaDcs400,
Don't compare the horse power between the chainsaw mills and band mills. It don't work that way.
A band mill will need less HP due to less kerf. Now having said that, there are a ton of things that can affect that as well.

Personally I'm partial to a band mill due simply to the kerf.
I do have a 3120xp with a 72" bar that I plan to have milling by spring, but that's for some really over sized slabs I plan to cut. But if I had a band mill big enough, I'd rather use that. :

For the logs you are talking about, I'd seriously consider a small band mill. No point in throwing out a fence board with each board cut. My 2 cents.

Avalancher · January 12, 2005, 05:12:55 AM

QuoteMakitaDcs400,
Don't compare the horse power between the chainsaw mills and band mills. It don't work that way.
A band mill will need less HP due to less kerf. Now having said that, there are a ton of things that can affect that as well.

Personally I'm partial to a band mill due simply to the kerf.
I do have a 3120xp with a 72" bar that I plan to have milling by spring, but that's for some really over sized slabs I plan to cut. But if I had a band mill big enough, I'd rather use that. :

For the logs you are talking about, I'd seriously consider a small band mill. No point in throwing out a fence board with each board cut. My 2 cents.

Well said! That is one of the biggest disadvantages that I found with a chainsaw mill, you lose a lot of wood in sawdust. And talk about sawdust! After an afternoon you can plan on a pile of total waste as high as your waist! I haul my stuff back to the house if at all possible to the bandmill. I often will take the chain mill if its large stuff, I dont have any way of loading logs except the grunt and pull method, so the chainsaw mill works great for breaking a large tree down into more managable pieces, or if I just want large posts and beams it works great for that.

DonE911 · January 12, 2005, 05:29:04 AM

I'll throw my 2 cents in.

I own a logosol M7 chainsaw mill. I haven't had it long and have only cut a few logs. It makes wonderful lumber, but the kerf is larger than a bandsaw (not that big'a deal) and makes lots of sawdust. It's powered by a stihl 066 and its fast enough in red oak to make me happy... If the chain is sharpe it will move along fairly quickly... not at regular walking tempo, but fast enough. I'm milling by myself so high speed is not important to me. I spent less than $2000 on the set up... judging by the cost of red oak at the home depot I will recover my cost before I know it.

I'd love to have a bigger saw like the 3120 for those times when I have someone else to pull the lumber for me. I've got another 066 mag waiting a turn to mill so the 3120 will probable have to wait.

Milling with it is work though. At least I'm not down on the ground with the log, as my knee's couldn't take it.

I also considered a swinger and bandmill before I decided to go the M7 route. I like to make houshold items, but the main reason for the mill was to make beams for timber frame and fencing materials. The M7 fits the bill and at a resonable cost ( to me anyway ). Its also very portable, I can throw the mill in the back of my truck and go almost anywhere the 4x4 can go, mill my log, stack the lumber in the truck, put the mill on top of the stack, go home.... not sure on the actual weight of the mill, but its less the 100 lbs by my recon'n. Would work great on a trailer behind a 4 wheeler.

As for using the same chainsaw to cut the tree's and then mill them.... I don't see why not, you'd have to change chains to start milling, but thats not a big deal. I have other saws for taking them down or bucking them to size, but if I didn't, I'd change the chains.

My type mill is more $$ than the alaskan type, but worth it to me.... one of the January woodworking mags did an article on 8 or 10 personal sawmills... you might checkout the Mag rack at the local store and read the article... I can't remmeber which Mag it was though.

Geez, this was more than 2 cents worth... sorry so long.

logosoluser · January 12, 2005, 09:48:33 AM

I have a M5 Logosol. The powerhead is a 066 Stihl. There is no doubt in my mind unless you have the money to spend on a pretty good size Woodmizer you are head and shoulders way better off with a chainsaw mill. Around $2000.00 will put you in one and you will never look back I promise unless you are going in the full time business. These little mills are great for a serious do it yourselfer and you would have to spend 5 times the money to get the same thing from a Woodmizer. They are not the fastest thing in the world but I can make a cut in 16" pine 12' long in less than a minute. That aint too bad unless your trying to make a living. You can saw real long stuff as well, which is something I will be using for my timberframe in the new year or two. I have nothing but compliments about my Logosol and I think you will feel the same if you try one.

Furby · January 12, 2005, 08:42:37 PM

Sorry guys, not looking to start anything, just putting the info out there.
For my bandmill, I paid WAY less then twice the $$$ you are talking about for a higher end chainsaw mill. Mine was used. I can pull it behind the truck, cut a 20" cant, and if I really wanted and had a straight log, cut a 30" dia. log. All with less waste and a lot faster. I cut a lot of smaller stuff with it. I have a couple of piles of logs in the 10" on down range. With the band mill I can pull several boards from those logs with little effort.
Not saying by any means that it's a better way to go, but for what I wanted, it works.

Like I said before, I'm planning to use my chainsaw mill for the oversized stuff. I'm not totally writing off chainsaw mills.

beav · January 13, 2005, 07:59:22 AM

Another point is if you saw to sell or have a limited amt. of logs the amount of sawdust that isn't boards will eventually cost more than you could ever save paying less for a chainsaw mill. Logs cost alot and will cost more in the future. Lumber costs will keep going up too.

clear as mud? I guess if you're sawing junk and need sawdust ok, but you'll go broke and maybe even not know it if you start sawing high grade stuff. Flame suit on :

oldsaw · January 13, 2005, 08:26:47 PM

The stuff I get would either rot or be burned, I don't feel much guilt, nor do I get much of a sense of waste. There is no way in h-e-double toothpicks that you could get some of the logs I've sliced up out of where they were resting, nor could you get a bandmill down there. Your reasoning works well for a production guy, but not a salvage guy.

Besides, I don't have a place to park a bandmill.

Furby · January 13, 2005, 08:49:43 PM

I'm a salvage guy in EVERY way!!!
Ya should see this place! ;D

oldsaw · January 14, 2005, 03:17:21 PM

That big old oak tree is still down by the freeway where its been for about 8 months now. If it weren't so wet....gotta be 45" DBH....I figure they will want it "gone" pretty soon.

Now the Columbo part kicks in...

Have a good weekend.

Furby · January 14, 2005, 05:53:19 PM

Better be careful, around here if someone removes a log or tree from along the highway, they prosecute. They actually put up metal highway signs along one stretch, asking for any info on who removed the State's trees. If it's within the highway right away, watch yourself.