iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Water Well Tank Location Question

Started by Radar67, June 07, 2012, 03:39:08 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Mooseherder

Is your pump in the well or above ground?

gspren

   If you have a submersible pump I would think no, you won't get a pump through the bend. If you have a jet pump probably could but use a 45 degree sweep instead of a normal 45, that will make pipes with a foot valve easier to put in/out.
Stihl 041, 044 & 261, Kubota 400 RTV, Kubota BX 2670, Ferris Zero turn

Al_Smith

Just pour a concrete cap around the well casing.

Mooseherder

That's probably the better option because there may be 30 to 60 foot of steel casing at and below the surface.

Straightgrain

We put in a new well and tank last year; the well is 400 feet from the house and 220 feet down. 

The pressure tank and control panels are next to the house in an insulated shed.

I forget the name of the tank/line hook up, but the distance between the well and tank does not matter, but a check valve at the well is required.

If your control panel is a certain distance away from the well (+ 50 feet I think), there must be a lock-out capability so the power cannot be turned-on accidentally while the well is being serviced.

The company who designed my system "upped" the wire size to ensure enough juice goes to the well (8/4 as I recall).

Having the tank and control panels next to the house is wonderful.
"We fight for and against not men and things as they are, but for and against the caricatures we make of them". Joseph Schumpeter

Straightgrain

Quote from: Kurius on May 17, 2016, 02:36:42 PM
Hi folks,
I have a somewhat related question... I don't want to relocate my water well tank, but I'm wondering if it's possible to relocate my wellhead?
I have a residential water well. I'd eventually like to park an RV nearby (at the side of my house), and I fear one day accidentally driving into the wellhead. Is it possible to do something like dig down and modify the vertical pipe by adding a 45 degree joint so that the well head comes up out of the ground perhaps 6ft away from where it currently is? Of course I'd hire a professional to do this, but just wondering if this idea is even possible. And if it is possible, might you have a rough idea on how much this project might cost me?
Thank you

Put in a couple bollards or concrete planters.; much cheaper.

The top of the wellhead must be a certain number of inches above the finished grade (12 or 16?). Like others stated, modern wells have 40 to 60 feet of steel casing; best not to mess with them.

Some wells have pitiless adapters; pipes exit below the frost line.

Our well cost $26k (and I did the plumbing and electrical); be careful.

Good luck.

"We fight for and against not men and things as they are, but for and against the caricatures we make of them". Joseph Schumpeter

Gary_C

Quote from: Kurius on May 17, 2016, 02:36:42 PM

but I'm wondering if it's possible to relocate my wellhead?


No and you would not want to move the top of the well casing and especially not to park a RV nearby. Those well casings must be above the ground to keep any ground water from contaminating the underground water. Parking a vehicle nearby is just an invitation for disaster that could affect every well in the area. I can't imagine your county approving such a plan.

Putting elbows in the casing also would end servicing of the pump.

Nothing about moving that casing is a good idea.
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

Corley5

  5" PVC wells are more common around here than 4" steel.  They're PVC from top to bottom.  No steel casing at all.  Ours is 290' deep with big puddinstones around it for protection  :) :)  The water line and electric wire enter/exit through an adapter about 4' feet underground and the pressure tank is in the basement.
  This talk of contamination from underground connections makes me think of the old rod wells in well pits.  Every farm around here had one and most still have the pit with the worn out well still in it.  Most are at least capped but others still have everything hooked up and in place.  Some of them required careful attention in the spring that they didn't flood and drown the pump motor  ;) ;D
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

rjwoelk

We have a water source 1800 ft from the house it has its own pressure system submersible pump switch. Then in the house we have a second pressure tank  that helps keep our pressure from getting too low and has worked well for us. Regarding a pump house build, we had a 6x6x6 pump house 2x6 walls R20 walls floor and 20 + in the ceiling. It lasted till 2 years ago and was built in around 90. The raccoons got into it and pretty much destroyed it. So found a 9ft dia 7ft high 3000 gal round poly water tank, got it for $600 (the oven shut down and it did not fully bake). Spray foamed the total interior, Made a door and we heat it cheaper than that 6x6 wood structure. Should last me the rest of my life and who ever buys it.   
Lt15 palax wood processor,3020 JD 7120 CIH 36x72 hay shed for workshop coop tractor with a duetz for power plant

Al_Smith

A PVC casing indicates the well was sunk with a rotary,steel usually means it was put in with a thumper .

Thank You Sponsors!