Questions on older 450 Timberjack engine and trans

[Spartan]

Didn't really know how to word the title so hopefully someone will chime in.

76 TJ 450 GPE
My fiber ring gear went on my flywheel, broke in 4 pieces and I only had 3 bolts barely hanging it on. 
So I had to pull the engine and she's sitting broken apart right now.

I have a couple questions for you "in the know" guys.
It's a detroit 453N, are all the detroit 453N flywheels the same.  I have a few wallowed out bolt holes and a guy nearby has a 453N, I think out of a clark, but it has a bellhousing with a drive yoke on it still so I can't see the flywheel. 
Was thinking of just replacing the flywheel if it would work.  Mines the 16 bolt ring gear style.

Also, my trans is a clark 28000, I wanted to see if the suction tube was loose because I am having a few issues that may point that way (could be the charge pump though).  But, removing the converter looks to be a major PITA.  I noticed a pipe plug on the right side of the converter housing that looks to be where the suction tube may run by.  Is it possible to see it from that and maybe try to wiggle it?

Thanks
Brian

[North River Energy]

My somewhat limited experience with fiber drives indicates that the retaining bolts are either safety wired after being properly torqued, or the new bolts have a single use, quick-set threadlocker.
No idea on the flywheel compatibility, but I wonder if someone cheaped out on a previous repair.
Is there enough material there to retain Heli-coils or similar?

[Spartan]

I haven't got the broken bolts out yet,  (most broke) but I assume that those holes are ok.  the other holes are the wallowed ones.  I will run a tap through every one of them if I reuse the the flywheel.
I have the kit coming that has the one-use bolts.

Yes I think someone did not repair it correctly as the fiber gear was on the outside with the bolts directly on it and the metal ring was on the flywheel.  the manual says the the metal ring is supposed to go on the outside and the bolts thread down against that.  Probably why it broke into pieces.

[kiko]

You must be concerned with the center hole on the flywheel and the nose cone on the torque convertor.  If there is wear at this point you will have repeated fiber gear failure.  Also the only place you could access a suction leak from the outside is between the trans pump and regulator and between the regulator and torque housing.

[Spartan]

You must be concerned with the center hole on the flywheel and the nose cone on the torque convertor.  If there is wear at this point you will have repeated fiber gear failure.  Also the only place you could access a suction leak from the outside is between the trans pump and regulator and between the regulator and torque housing.

I'll check the pilot hole.
What if the suction tube was loose where it bolts to the case in the converter housing?  doesn't it come out of the case and is bolted there with 2 bolts and then goes up to the regulator block and charge pump at the top of the housing?

[Neilo]

There was a thread on here recently about air leaks on a Clark trans. A search for Clark might find it.

[North River Energy]

+2 to what Neilo said about the pilot bushing.

If the converter isn't supported by the pilot, it will tumble against the fiber like a pair of boots in a clothes dryer.
I think I got a new gear kit  from Minn-Parr. Same part, half of the dealer price.

[Autocar]

I replaced my fiber ring gear a few years ago the old one I believe had eight bolts and know wire. The new fiber ring had 16 holes I believe and a machine shop drilled and tapped the extra holes and I wired them when I put it back togather.

[treeslayer2003]

if that engine is from a clark skidder, the fly wheel should work.
the older ones were 8 bolt, new gears are 16 but will bolt to 8 hole FW.
broken bolts and gears with teeth intact come from changing direction under power or incorrectly installed bolts. clean retap threads, good lock tight. old ones had lock wire, loktite is better.
the old clarks had a bushing in the fly wheel you could replace. idk about TJ

[Spartan]

Thanks mike.
I don't know the year on the clark,  just know it was a N motor cause we swapped the head from it to another engine.   It was a 4 valve.

It looks like from the parts list that you can get a new pilot bushing for the converter,  anyone know for sure?

[North River Energy]

Granted it was on a different machine, but the pilot bore was worn oversized on the flywheel, so I had a bushing made to the 'new' clearance, with a somewhat tight fit to the converter snout.
I think I went for standard 'running fit' clearance.

[treeslayer2003]

oh Brian, pulling the converter from the bell housing is as simple as taking out the bolts.....just like you did to pull your engine. i assume the clark power unit is divorced, so be prepared. its heavy but tolerable on flat ground.....i would not want to man handle it by hand in the machine.

disclaimer; my experience is with the old 2 speed clarks, not the 28000.

[Spartan]

Are you talking about the converter housing on the old clark engine i was referring to?
If yes,  I'm in luck because it is sitting on the ground

[treeslayer2003]

Are you talking about the converter housing on the old clark engine i was referring to?
If yes,  I'm in luck because it is sitting on the ground

yes