Rebuilding a Belsaw M-14

Dieseltim · December 25, 2016, 04:20:54 PM

Well it has been a year now but I finally got started on clearing the land so, I can start to build my Belsaw M-14. This mill used to belong to a friend of mine that had passed away about 12 years ago. I happened by chance to find it again last year in a agricultural newpaper for sale. I had to drive half way across the state, but I just had to get it back.

It was originally built on a wooden frame, but it had rotted for age. So, I'm rebuilding it with a steel frame.

I'll try to upload pictures as I make progress on it.

Tim

paul case · December 25, 2016, 05:38:37 PM

Good for you Tim!

We will be happy to see your progress.
What are you going to power it with?

PC

Dieseltim · December 25, 2016, 07:48:23 PM

I'm planning to use either use a Mercedes 5cylinder turbo diesel engine or a Cummins 4cylinder turbo diesel engine.

Tim

Blaszer · December 25, 2016, 08:34:14 PM

I just bought one last year and moved it to my place..I absolutely love it....Its a wood frame and currently pto drive..Planning on using a 4 cyl John Deere diesel..( Im not a Deere guy but the price is right)

jeep534 · December 26, 2016, 06:39:09 AM

Tim,
Welcome, I will be following along with this build. you are getting started right with pictures 8) I have a friend in Griffen ( david jackson) anyway the mercedes / 4bt is very interesting to me as I am currently putting a mercedes om617 into my jeep.

Good Luck
archie

bandmiller2 · December 26, 2016, 07:12:14 AM

Tim, be aware of the engine rotation, an engine mounted behind the mill will be turning the wrong way, as they are designed for tractor PTO. You can set the engine on the sawyers side and have proper rotation, but if your milling alone you will have to walk around the engine. If you can choose a diesel with a variable speed governor not just a limiting speed one you will be much better off. Somewhere on the internet I have seen Belsaw manual free to read. Frank C.

Dieseltim · December 26, 2016, 07:45:27 AM

Bandmiller2,

Yes, I have the manual and any other info I could about setting up this mill reprinted snd put into a binder to help me get it right the first time, so I understand how it should be assembled.

As for the rotation of the engine vs blade, I have read and seen video where the use a rear axle diff to change the rotation. I'm thinking that locking the spider gears would be best. Still thinking about using the oem brakes to stop the shaft rotation when I don't want it to move.

Lots of things to work out as the time comes. Right now I'm trying to focus on the frame. 6 X 12 inch 3/8 thick box tubing. For a total of 66 ft of frame. I should be able to cut up to 24 plus

Don P · December 26, 2016, 09:07:03 AM

I've got a '92 timberking M-14 that came on steel from the factory. The track on those is 3/16x10" C channel. Tube should be more rigid and better, mine is lighter than I like. I'd like to see how you do the husk bearing and feed area, I need to get over and pick up an older one that I think will be parts for mine, but you never know.

bandmiller2 · December 27, 2016, 08:01:19 AM

Tim I have a soft spot for the Belsaw mills, I built my first circular mill back in the early 80's before computers and this forum all I had was a copy of the Belsaw instructions. I copied a lot of Belsaw stuff just made it heavier. Really pay attention when they tell you about log and cant turning, not flipping them on the mill, but using flip up log turners. The tiny rollers under the carriage are sensitive to pounding and shock. Two of my friends have Belsaws one of them just has it sitting on RR ties for a foundation and has no problems, but a good foundation is mo better. Frank C.

jeep534 · December 30, 2016, 09:16:03 AM

I have a question that I have never seen asked anywhere. what type of bearings are on the arbor i am guessing it is different with different vintages of mills and are replacements easily available.

Happy Hunting

archie

bandmiller2 · December 30, 2016, 08:34:34 PM

Archie, the ones I've seen use a two bolt common flange type bearings, if I recall 1 3/4". The older Belsaws used a wooden bed you made by nailing together 2x10" planks. The flange type bearings were bolted to the side of those planks. Frank C.

Don P · December 30, 2016, 10:57:03 PM

This is the outboard bearing and lead adjustment on mine,

I keep a spare feed drive belt wired up inside the frame.

jeep534 · December 30, 2016, 11:17:18 PM

Don P,
That is what i am talking about. Those are the housings I am wondering if anyone has had to replace the bearings and if they were readily available.

Thank you
archie

Kbeitz · December 31, 2016, 12:16:40 AM

Looks like a standard press in bearing that can be had from any bearing store.

Don P · December 31, 2016, 10:18:24 AM

It is just a garden variety bearing. Looks like I'm going to have fun when that goes. If that adjustment plate were to crack or fail I don't think it would be too hard to weld up something. Do notice the top of the bearing housing figures into your track height in relation to your cutting height. You need a little room for leveling the shaft. Keep all that as low as possible so the track can pass over closer to the arbor.

Remle · December 31, 2016, 10:48:01 AM

Quote from: bandmiller2 on December 30, 2016, 08:34:34 PM
Archie, the ones I've seen use a two bolt common flange type bearings, if I recall 1 3/4". The older Belsaws used a wooden bed you made by nailing together 2x10" planks. The flange type bearings were bolted to the side of those planks. Frank C.

Their is a free PDF of the M 14 on this site "http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=1050" although it is the wood frame foundation the layout measurements would be the same for a metal base along with the part number used. If my memory serves me right the bearing flips 90 degrees and comes out two slots on the back side of the flange.

Dieseltim · January 01, 2017, 08:26:55 AM

Well even with some rain this past week I did make some progress. I fixed the hydraulic leak on the old Dresser TD 7 dozer, and made several repairs to Dad's boom truck. The dozer was needed to help level out the ground for the mill to sit on and the boom truck was needed to off load the steel. We still have some work to do on the boom truck but a few new relays should help it out next week. I had loaded most of the smaller pieces of steel with my tractor but the bigger ones will have to be loaded with the boom truck to move them here to my place. The steel has been over at a friend's farm for several years now. I bought it as scrap metal about 10 years ago and didn't have a place to store it. So, now that I have a need for it I have to move it 3 miles to get it home.

Dieseltim · January 03, 2017, 07:11:20 PM

Got the first load of steel. Now if it will dry out again, maybe I can get it unloaded.

We did need the rain but it makes it hard to get outside projects done. Oh well I just have to wait for it to dry up.

Don P · January 03, 2017, 08:59:06 PM

Sweet, that oughta work.

Dieseltim · February 13, 2017, 09:27:06 PM

Got a few more loads of steel unloaded this past weekend.

Dieseltim · February 13, 2017, 09:29:29 PM

I think we have a good start now.

richhiway · February 15, 2017, 06:45:30 PM

nice load of steel. be nice to see the progress. thanks.

Darrel · February 15, 2017, 10:32:28 PM

Goin'ta be the stoutest belsaw M-14 ever!

Don P · February 15, 2017, 11:32:24 PM

I mean.
That pile makes me... green.

Joe Hillmann · February 16, 2017, 11:57:05 AM

Quote from: Dieseltim on December 26, 2016, 07:45:27 AM
Bandmiller2,

As for the rotation of the engine vs blade, I have read and seen video where the use a rear axle diff to change the rotation. I'm thinking that locking the spider gears would be best. Still thinking about using the oem brakes to stop the shaft rotation when I don't want it to move.

I haven't read the entire thread so maybe someone already pointed this out but, you can't weld the spider gears, all that would do is make it a solid axle. If you want to use the rearend as a reverser you you have to lock up the drive shaft or carrier. That way the spider gears can reverse the rotation from one side of the rearend to the other side.

Or you could mount a brake on the drive shaft to use a clutch to engage and disengage one side of the rearend from the other. But that only works if you have a brake or enough load on the side you want to disengage.