How high should I set the track on my new manual mill?

[goku78]

I just ordered a Woodland Mills HM130.  I would like to raise the track off the ground to make moving boards and rolling logs easier.  Currently, I have the 6x6 base abouty 2 feet off the ground.  Any Advice?

[fishfighter]

I have a 126. Built a trailer for it and the tracks are about 2 1/2' off the ground. What a back saver. But, loading logs would be very hard if I didn't use my tractor or backhoe. Once I finish my sawmill shack, I plan on a new set of tracks that I will set of a base at 2 1/2' off the ground.

Congrats of the mill. ;D

[Kbeitz]

Boat trailers off cragslist cheap...

[btulloh]

Put it at the height that suits you and you're equipment.  My 126 is about 14 or 15 inches off the ground because I use forks on the back of the tractor for loading logs usually, although I have a log deck for most logs now.  I find it to be a good height for me and wouldn't really want it any higher.  (Correction:  The bottom of the track rail is 14 or 15 inches off the ground.  The top of the log bunks is probably 21 or 22 inches off the ground and I'm happy with that height.)

Make sure you're base is solid and stable, because big logs can make it walk otherwise.  I spiked mine to the ground with 1/2 inch rebar to keep it from moving. 

You may not find the best height initially, so it could be a good idea to sort of rough it in first and use it for a while.  The only problem with that is you'll be doing some work twice.  Of course the benefit is you'll find the sweet spot.

Good luck with the new mill and the sawdust addiction.

[losttheplot]

Put it on a slope  :D best of both worlds.
The head is near the ground and the boards come off at belly height.
I have to turn logs with a log-rite and  the closer the mill is to the ground, the easier it is to roll them. Par-buckling the logs on the mill dosent matter with a power winch.

I would second the importance of a good foundation. I found it was always going out of flat/level when I had it propped up on pieces of wood.

Hope you enjoy your new mill 

[Greyman]

btulloh:  Wow, I really like your setup - a shed to keep the mill out of the weather and store tools etc. without limiting access to the bed by my tractor or crane.  I suspect you have some panels/doors for the front since you put in an access door in the back.  Saving your pics for my build in a year or so!

[kelLOGg]

I make use of terrain slope, too, to get logs onto the mill. Land slopes to the rollway which is flat, mill-mounted winch parbuckles log to mill over removable steel 2 x 4s.

[btulloh]

Nice use of the topo kelLogg.

Thanks Greyman.  Full credit goes to the Forestry Forum since most of my ideas were harvested here and adapted to my situation.  I think fishfighter's original millhead shack was my inspiration, and there are others on here that are similar.   All of the ideas can get stirred up and baked into a cake that suits you.

As soon as you start sawing logs you start finding out how many tools and things are used on a regular basis.  I started out with a pile of tools and stuff on the ground, but that gets old fast.

One idea which I've seen from several different people on here is to add 4 feet of track for parking the head in the shed.  It can be less than perfect since you won't be sawing on that part.  You can make it from any old angle iron you have and just mate it up to the real track.  It's a good way to get four more feet of usable sawing length, which is significant.  I bought extension track to get to 16 feet, but trying to saw a 16' log on a 16'6" track is doable but not fun. 

Good luck and have fun collecting ideas and implementing your solution.

[btulloh]

By the way, Greyman, I do have some door-like panels that go on the front, although they don't stop access.  The door in the back of the shed is useful, but primarily for air flow.  There's a window in each side as well.  A breeze is a good thing.  Especially on the rare days when it's blowing the sawdust AWAY from me.