This Dang Peterson

[MbfVA]

 I think my brain is going to generate smoke trying to understand this.

It's important to level the skids, that's laid out clearly in the manual.  We had some trouble getting the rollers to fit to the rails/tracks on both sides at once.   My small torpedo level tells me the upper tracks (left) are just a smidge high, based on a slight rightward slant. [had to correct to 'rightward' from 'left'--my dyslexia getting in the way]

I understand that the cuts are relative, if that is the right phrase.   I'm just expecting to get hit in the mental face with something going wrong as a result of that lack of level, however small this time. It could have been more.

We're moving the mill to the farm to take care of some downed trees there, so we'll see how it goes when I set up there.

[Ianab]

This is a "rough n ready" setup from a couple of weeks back. Friends tractor couldn't lift this fat little Sheoak log on the forks, so we dragged it clear of the stump with a chain, then lifted each end in turn with the chain to slide some logs / log rounds under it to support the log off the ground. Then just set the mill up as best I could around it. It was slightly uphill, and from memory the right rail was a couple of inches low. I had no "bunks" as such, the butt end had a broken fence post to sit on, and the top was forked and had two other random chunks of firewood supporting it, different heights to try and line up the fork in the log as level as possible. I actually ended up with the pith pretty much centred, and had all the pith cracking in maybe 3x3" in the centre.



But what I did make SURE of was the rails were parallel. If one end is level, and you have a 2-3" difference at the other, you will have issues as the carriage will only run on 3 rollers, and rock around.

So there are some adjustments that DO matter. There are other's that aren't critical, or even very important. I've never used a level with my mill, align the rails by eye, and get bunks etc "close to level" and the mill will wok fine. Having the blade aligned properly with the carriage, correct lead, and the cut intersects meeting up, now those one DO matter. But as long as they are correct, where the rails and bunks sit? Not so important.

And I got some very nice quartersawn boards out of that rather ugly log.  ;D

[MbfVA]

 I'm sure that before this upcoming move is over with I will wish my mill head was as light as the Junior Peterson.

[Ianab]

I'm sure that before this upcoming move is over with I will wish my mill head was as light as the Junior Peterson.

Yes, that does help because if the carriage is in a low spot you can actually manhandle it up onto the rails relatively easily. In an ideal world you can just wheel the carriage into place, and the rollers are an inch above the rails. Crank the carriage down, and the rollers land on the rails. But if the carriage is in a 2" hollow... yeah that's not quite so easy.

[Savannahdan]

About chocked on my coffee in reading these last 2.  I had to check on the Lucas site for the weight of the carriage for my mill.  It's almost 400lbs (176kg).  Doubt that very many are hoisted up on barrels or cribs to cut extremely large logs.  Since my mill is currently setup in my backyard I have to use a shop crane for lifting such things.  I use a tractor/farm jack, logrites and levers to make adjustments to logs.

[ButchC]

I'm a new owner of a Peterson JP, had it for a couple of months now. I had to make some blade adjustments when it first arrived and it seems to be cutting well now. As I'm reading this thread I'm wondering how important squaring the frame is, should that be done first? I didn't even check that initially but as I'm looking at it now (it's not on the mill, currently in storage on the wheels) it looks like it may be off. Should I make sure it's square when it's on the rails and then make the blade adjustments if necessary?

Yes squaring the winch frame is important but it is flexible enough that you cant tell anything about the adjustment when sitting on the transport wheels.  All checks must be done on tracks that are parallel with each other and the power unit should be in the middle of it's travel, then measure as discribed in the manual.  Cutting well is the final say in any mill adjusting and for me means DONT MESS WITH IT!! as I am capable of over thinking the situation and screwing things up.

[ButchC]

I'm sure that before this upcoming move is over with I will wish my mill head was as light as the Junior Peterson.

They are still selling them,,  ;D ;D

[Don P]

We needed to cut wide boards so my sawing partner welded up a swingset that we put at one end of the Lucas a month or so ago, the beam of the swingset over the center of the carriage when the mill is out on the extensions. There is a small ATV winch mounted midpoint on the beam and then a 4 cable harness on the millhead itself that the winch can grab. We needed to be able to quickly spin the mill head around to make double width passes, 12" wide boards. It now takes less than a minute to hoist, spin, set down and go back the other way. That rig could also be used for setup.

When setting up the mill we try for level side to side but that can be relative. End to end it can be climbing quite a hill. If you can sight across the rails and down the rails (put straight boards across the rails as winding sticks) and see no twist in either direction it should make good lumber. You will be able to use the most rail length if you measure and crosscheck the diagonals when setting up the rails.

We've got roller tables set up with bunks on top for what we are doing now, leveled side to side and straight end to end. The mill is level side to side and straight but heading downhill end to end. We have 40' of roller table through the mill and are cutting material longer than the rails/extensions. When we set up it is roughly pith centered. The rails are not parallel to the roller table, they are parallel to the pith.  We then continue to roll the log in to finish the cut. To maintain that slope as we set up to finish the cut each end must rise or drop the same amount.

I've been bumfuzzled before and just tore down and set back up again to try to take a slack step in setup out of the equation.

[runmca]

I'm a new owner of a Peterson JP, had it for a couple of months now. I had to make some blade adjustments when it first arrived and it seems to be cutting well now. As I'm reading this thread I'm wondering how important squaring the frame is, should that be done first? I didn't even check that initially but as I'm looking at it now (it's not on the mill, currently in storage on the wheels) it looks like it may be off. Should I make sure it's square when it's on the rails and then make the blade adjustments if necessary?

Yes squaring the winch frame is important but it is flexible enough that you cant tell anything about the adjustment when sitting on the transport wheels.  All checks must be done on tracks that are parallel with each other and the power unit should be in the middle of it's travel, then measure as discribed in the manual.  Cutting well is the final say in any mill adjusting and for me means DONT MESS WITH IT!! as I am capable of over thinking the situation and screwing things up.

Thanks ButchC, I'll take a closer look when it's on the rails. I agree, even if it's off a bit I may leave it alone for now. I have a nice hard maple to cut next and don't want to waste any to make adjustments.

[Qweaver]

I worked for days making sure that all of the settings were right on my WPF10.   Today I ground a little more  relief on the tips (not much) and now I can make 2ea 5" horz. cuts and the 2" vert. release cut is OK.  Still not easy to push but doable.  This is a very dense red oak log. The chart in the tool box says a 2x10x20' red oak should weigh over 170 lb.  I think it is more. It's all two of us can do to lift it.  I will make sure the blade is sharp and get this job done.   The saw or my technique still need something but it will be good enough to get this job done!  Also one of the c/s screws that hold the blade on would not back out and I had to drill it out.  Where do I get one of those puppies.  Tractor supply is my only chance in Weston WV.  I never seized them this time.

[terrifictimbersllc]

I would get them from Left coast supplies who has Peterson parts.  You can also probably pick them out here if you determine the size, they are metric.  https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-flat-head-screws/=19xujbz 

[Savannahdan]

Glad to hear you have it going and cutting wood successfully.  Yes, oak is very heavy.  I bought some of the blade bolts off of ebay.  I made sure they are Grade 12.9.  Lucas recommends tightening the bolts somewhat tightly and real tight for the nuts on the backside of the hub.  I have a hex head socket which makes removal of the bolts easier.

[Qweaver]

I also have a 5 mm hex head socket.  Actually broke it with my torque wrench trying to get this bolt out.  Ground it back straight and then stripped the bolt using a breaker bar.  But the head drilled out and backed out  OK.   

[Savannahdan]

Get some of the BlueCreeper.  It made for just situations.

[Qweaver]

Good news is not perfect news.  I am able to cut 2x10s by making 3 horz. cuts and a slow vert. release cut.  This is still not cutting right but I can do it to finish this job.  I will not take another job until I get this saw cutting right.  This is a dense red oak but no one at Peterson has said that the saw should saw this bad/hard.
Quinton

[Ianab]

Swingblades in generally handle even very hard woods pretty well. Some of the Aussie hardwoods make Oak look like a softwood. So there certainly certainly something not right, probably with the blade still?

Its often quicker and easier to make full width horizontal cuts in 2 passes, needing to do three tells me something isn't right. But the 2" vertical, you should be able to blast through that with ease.

I've been sawing Sheoak (Australian Pine) lately, and that's up there with Live Oak  / Mesquite etc for hardness and density. OK, I notice it's harder and have to cut a bit slower, but nothing that's a problem.

[Qweaver]

Ianab, I have done everything that the manual and Peterson techs ask for.  I really think that my re-tip job is good.  I would be willing to buy a new blade but none are currently available in the US.  I would gladly pay someone that could make the saw cut correctly.  I'm about to give up!

[runmca]

Quinton, how's the belt tension? Are you finding that the blade will come to a stop if you push too hard/fast?

[dgdrls]

One thought,  what does the saw "dust" look like?  dust or stringy?

For the blade bolts I had the same issue and drilled the heads off.
get a full set of bolts and nuts,  they are handy to have around.
Remember you don't have to crank them down. 
A little Lock-tite is ok on just the nut

you'll get it

best
D

[MbfVA]

In my limited experience so far, it takes some effort to push wide horizontally, and my mill is ever so slightly going uphill for that.  Pulling back through a 2 inch vertical cut seems like nothing.

That's the hard way.  The easy way is to cut vertically, then come back and push horizontally on the short dimension.  Like I said, I'm still learning.

Something's got to be wrong, unless you've spent too much time pushing through cedar or some other softwoods w/ a bandsaw  smiley_greg_walking_stilts

All I've cut so far is some dry white oak; logs had been sitting around for a long time.  Moving the mill on Friday, more experience coming.

I did a demo of a manual Norwood HD 36 (band saw)on poplar & cedar, and it was pushable with one finger.

No blades available in the US, bad manufacturer, bad manufacturer!  Or bad Left Coast for not ordering enough?

[Kbeitz]

Sounds like your running neg. rake. Pos. rake will pull you in.

[ButchC]

  The easy way is to cut vertically, then come back and push horizontally on the short dimension.  Like I said, I'm still learning.

Something's got to be wrong, unless you've spent too much time pushing through cedar or some other softwoods w/ a bandsaw  smiley_greg_walking_stilts

My mill also operates with very little effort but it is also a lot less mill being a JP.  In the end I think he will find he has a blade problem.

Your operating method mirrors mine. I am nearly always operating the mill by myself thus no matter which cut is the large one I run the vertical cut first first horizontal cut last. That way I can grab the lumber and stack it without having to walk around the saw head, saves a LOT of steps and at the end of the day ups production considerably. Even  on the rare occasion I have a helper I still run it that way due to formed  habits even though it makes things a bit harder for the off bearer.

[Don P]

If this has all been on one log I'd wait till you get some different logs through the setup. If it is still not working I like Kbeitz's idea. Check what you are actually getting from the sharpener... hmm make sure it is good and square too, and then maybe start increasing the hook angle.

[Bradm]

Hopefully I'm not breaking any rules here and if I am please ignore/delete this post.

If you're willing to send the blade to me up here in Canada, I'll make sure that it's setup properly.  You just need to cover shipping both ways.

[MbfVA]

If it will help, also, and the member writing from Ontario just made a very nice offer  that might be your best bet, I will be glad to send you any closeup photography of my unused freshly tipped blades that you think might help.

One thing I haven't seen discussed is blade "tension".  I know just enough about it to ask questions, but if I understand correctly, it could influence the pulling or pushing force.  My recollection is that overheating of the blade can upset tension.  Let me leave a more thorough explanation to the experienced guys on here, but it might help to know more about it.