Bandsaw Sharpeners

[Tin Horse]

Hi. I'm new to this site and have an older Enercraft 30 HDL sawmill. Interested in anyone else with such a machine or information.
I live in Ontario Canada and am looking for new or used Cat Claw sharpener and setter by Cooks.

[Grizzly]

Welcome here Tin Horse! I've got the Cook's equipment but after listing it realized we just didn't want to quit milling. Enjoy your time and learning here.

Lyle

[scouter Joe]

I have a 1993 Enercraft M30 Not hydraulic . Has been and still is a very good mill for what I use it for . What information are you looking for ? Hopefully I can help . scouter Joe

[Quebecnewf]

I to have a Enercraft . Run mine up in northern Quebec . If you need any info just post it up and you should get answers .

My sharpener , bought it with the mill is a Dino Bandsaw Sharpener . Made in Australia. Has worked good for me . Those Cat Claw are very good as well from what I've read .

Post pics and questions . This forum has all the answers you need .

Quebecnewf 

[Chuck White]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Tin Horse!

[JB Griffin]

I would look at a wright w-37 abg instead.  The wright is a precision built machine and infinitely rebuildable. The cams are much more precise too.
They're more expensive than a cooks but worth it.

[D6c]

Haven't used any of the above sharpeners, but the Dinasaw sharpener is set up kind of like my old Woodmizer sharpener.  The problem is the blade advance pusher doesn't engage the tooth being ground.  This causes variations in the amount being ground it the band isn't perfect or has previously had one tooth ground more than the others.
My old WM grinder was actually a worse design....it gauged off the last tooth that was ground.  It was terrible because if you accidentally ground a tooth a little too much, the next tooth got extra ground off and so on....compounding the problem as you went around the blade.  If you compensated for it you ended up with a band with different tooth pitches, which made the next sharpening even more difficult.  I rebuilt the advance mechanism to gauge off the tooth you were grinding and it works much better.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iMrj2gizvU&t=56s

[whatwas]

I have a enercraft manual mill and it works great for me. I was going to replace it and bought a much newer norwood manual mill last year, it definitely hand its good points but ended up keeping the old enercraft and sold the norwood.
I use a hud-son sharpener and after fixing the blade advancement arm and the crazy round (ball shape) adjusting knobs, it works great.

[Quebecnewf]

The Dina in the video is a lot newer and I think improved than mine. Looks like a lot of Canadian enercraft users on this subject.

I bought mine in 93 . Kohler 20hp gas . Hyd drive on the carriage , everything else Manuel . I saw all softwood and around a thousand logs a year average.

Very good mill . Been in a shed from day one and is as good today as it was back in 93


Quebecnewf

[Pabene]

D6c, you have hit the head on the nail. To advance the blade on that tooth as will be ground, is the most important in a good grinder. If you have an other design in your grinder, I would suggest you to modify it. Some will say the pitch in the blades are so good it doesn't matter, that's not true. Every "miss cut" in such grinders will be worse the next sharpening procedure. A to heavy cut on a tooth will make the tooth blue and the heat threating/hardness in that tooth is destroyed.

[Wintergreen Mountain]

I just bought a Cooks Cat-Claw sharpener 2 weeks ago. I've sharpened 12 blades so far and I'm very impressed. The blades cut three times better than the blades I payed to have sharpened. And I'm not good at sharpening yet. I also bought a Cooks Duel Tooth setter. I haven't used it yet so I hope I see a difference when I start setting them occasionally . I haven't sawed for abour 5 years or visited SMF. GEAT TO BE HERE AGAIN. I have absorbed a whole lot of knowledge from this forum.    Thanks to all.    Leon