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Winch (gathered wheel chair and scooter motors)

Started by Georgia088, January 22, 2018, 07:46:19 PM

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Georgia088

Ok, so obviously I don't understand how the speed controller operates, but could I do a similar setup with my current board and drum switch? If I by pass the pot (knob that controls min-max speed) with a toggle to set it at max speed. So, I would have to pull the drum switch to reverse and then flip the toggle which would set at max speed. When I got ready to go forward I would push drum switch to forward and then use pot to control speed? Is this possible or am I completely lossed?
Thanks!

Ps. I'm a little confused as to what the image on the left is? Is that on the circuit board of the controller?

Hilltop366

Wondering, could a person use 2 speed controllers, 1 for forward and 1 for reverse?

I guess if you got the gearing just right it would not be necessary.

Kbeitz

Quote from: Hilltop366 on February 04, 2018, 10:35:48 AM
Wondering, could a person use 2 speed controllers, 1 for forward and 1 for reverse?

I guess if you got the gearing just right it would not be necessary.

You don't need two controllers Just two pots with a switch if you want
different speeds. Or you could use a resistor in place of the pot.
To use a resistor you would set the pot at the speed you like and measure
the ohms to know what resistor you need. If you only want top speed
for reverse then you would just put a SPST switch in the two pot wires.
When switching the switch one way would be top speed and the other
way would be whatever you have the pot set at.



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Georgia088

Ok. That was simple enough. Now, my next issue. Where the limit switch needs to go in my setup........
My problem is the drum switch is set to power the controller when in forward or reverse and then it reverses the  polarity from the speed control to the motor depending on which way the lever is. So no matter which leg I brake with a limit switch. It's not going to allow it to move in the opposite direction once it's been tripped because each leg is needed to go in the opposite direction. Make sense?  What can I do? Thanks again!

Kbeitz

Quote from: Georgia088 on February 04, 2018, 01:43:36 PM
Ok. That was simple enough. Now, my next issue. Where the limit switch needs to go in my setup........
My problem is the drum switch is set to power the controller when in forward or reverse and then it reverses the  polarity from the speed control to the motor depending on which way the lever is. So no matter which leg I brake with a limit switch. It's not going to allow it to move in the opposite direction once it's been tripped because each leg is needed to go in the opposite direction. Make sense?  What can I do? Thanks again!

Being that your working with a DC circuit you can put a diode at your
limit switch. when switched open the diode will only allows travel in the
other direction. Make the limit switch open at each extreme and place a
diode across the open switch, so the motor can ONLY go the other way.
Just make sure the diodes are big enough to handle the amps of your
motor.



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Georgia088

Kbeitz,
I am learning a lot from you, I'm just a little slow. I didn't see your last explanation until I had already changed my mind about how I was going to wire it up. I changed drum switches so now I have a power on switch for the controller and a separate dpdt switch to change the polarity from the controller to the motor. This allows me to break a leg for a limit switch. I tested it and it will work.  However, I came up with another potential issue.
I followed your advice above and used a toggle switch to bypass the "pot" to have a fast return. What do you use to automatically switch this off once it has "returned home". My worry is, If you happen to forget to switch that toggle off and put the mill in forward it will be full speed... I thought maybe a diode between the "pot bypass toggle" may work, but after thinking about it I don't think it will. I event thought about using a timer instead of a toggle switch. Again, I appreciate all the info and help you've provided. I hope that I can remember half the stuff you are telling me for future projects.

Maybe what I'm looking for is a toggle switch that will automatically cut off when voltage is dropped (limit switch opens circuit). Do they make such a thing?

This was my thought on the diode, but I don't think it can work because the pot can't differentiate  between when the motor is in forward or reverse.


 
Thanks!




Kbeitz

Can't put it in the pot. That running a different kind of a circuit.
If it was me I would put a spring loaded toggle switch on that.
Or... The forward toggle switch could be a double throw double
pole switch that wires from the pot switch would run through so
when you went forward it would open the circuit



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Georgia088

My F/R switch has voltage going through it on one of the post that you have the "W" of the pot switch going to.  Can that "pot handle voltage?  If I Run the "W" wire to the same post as the wire that runs to the motor on the F/R switch it will be getting either (+) or (-) voltage depending on which way the F/R switch is pressed.  Will this not mess up the pot or the controller?

Thanks!

Kbeitz

Quote from: Georgia088 on February 05, 2018, 08:27:53 AM
My F/R switch has voltage going through it on one of the post that you have the "W" of the pot switch going to.  Can that "pot handle voltage?  If I Run the "W" wire to the same post as the wire that runs to the motor on the F/R switch it will be getting either (+) or (-) voltage depending on which way the F/R switch is pressed.  Will this not mess up the pot or the controller?

Thanks!

Is your F/W switch a DPDT switch? If it is are your using both sides?
A DPDT switch is two switches in one. One side of the switch can have
voltage and the other side nothing. If your using both sides then move
up to a TPDP. That has three switches in one.



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Hilltop366

Quote from: Kbeitz on February 04, 2018, 11:54:20 AM
Quote from: Hilltop366 on February 04, 2018, 10:35:48 AM
Wondering, could a person use 2 speed controllers, 1 for forward and 1 for reverse?

I guess if you got the gearing just right it would not be necessary.

You don't need two controllers Just two pots with a switch if you want
different speeds. Or you could use a resistor in place of the pot.
To use a resistor you would set the pot at the speed you like and measure
the ohms to know what resistor you need. If you only want top speed
for reverse then you would just put a SPST switch in the two pot wires.
When switching the switch one way would be top speed and the other
way would be whatever you have the pot set at.



 

Yep, I guess I used the wrong term, was thinking two pots not controllers.

Thanks

Kbeitz

You could use two pots with a TPDP switch.
It would work great with spring loaded up
and normal down.



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Georgia088

 So, what about this? I think the tpdt switch will work like this. I only have one limit switch drawn in pic, but I could add the other on the forward side. Will this work?



 

Kbeitz

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Georgia088

Well, haven't gotten a chance to "play" with mill lately. But I do have it up and auto feeding. Seems to be doing ok. Probably cut a total of 30 min with it. Broke the first blade today in our sawmilling history. Luckily, we had just added a blade guard. I'm guessing manually pushing the carriage through a log you can feel any probalems and stop before the blade breaks...?
Tracking the blades on our tires has always been a an issue. We have a tension bar on the front of our tires that we added a while back  to be able to add more tension without flexing the mill inward and causing the blade to come off the front.  However, once we get to a certain point of tightness no matter how much we adjust the tension the blade will not stay on. We are using cheap HF trailor tires (2 ply I think). I'm wondering if once there is too much tension the strength of the plys on the tires will not hold up and "flex" or "give" themselves.?? Does this seem plausible? Overall, I'm pretty content with the power feed and the head movement that I've talked about on this thread though. I plan on adding a video at some point, but our limited time and the weather isn't cooperating at the moment. It's supposed to rain here for most of the foreseeable future.

Kbeitz

It's hard to keep a blade on wheels that don't have a crown.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Georgia088

So, did you grind the rubber off of yours to make a bigger crown where the blade rides?

Kbeitz

I used steel wheels that came with a crown.



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

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