Whatcha Sawin' ???

[Banjo picker]

After you hit the metal, did you continue sawing after that cut, or did you put on a new blade as soon as you were out of the cut.  Banjo

[Magicman]

The blade was still sawing straight and the customer said that the marks would sand/plane out so I kept the same blade on.  We were both sorta uneasy about putting another blade on as long as we could finish sawing the log with this one.  I slowed waaay down to prevent the blade from rising/dipping.

At least the nail was cut straight across and not at an angle.

[Ljohnsaw]

At least the nail was cut straight across and not at an angle.

So after finding that nail, did you pull it out of the remaining log so as not to hit it again or were you slabbing thick enough that you weren't worried?

[Magicman]

I turned the log and the nail came off with the next outside slab.  I was no longer concerned with that one, but was fully expecting to hit another, but I didn't.   

[Crossroads]

That's some interesting wood with the bullets in it. Do you have a minimum fee? 

[Magicman]

I was expecting that question because obviously I do not. 

This guy had one log and needed it sawed.  I have a sawmill and wasn't sawing this morning.  If I can hitch up and go do it and make $100 in less than two hours then I am OK with that.  It was a sorta goodwill job and then the neighbor was looking for a sawyer and he will have about a dozen logs.  Things always seem to work out for the best for everyone.

The customer called from the other job that I was supposed to start today which was too wet.  He is moving logs so maybe we can saw it this week between rain showers.

[PA_Walnut]

Those nails (metal) is the kryptonite of urban sawing. I've been using mostly carbide and WHOA, the pain when I hit metal with those babies.  >:( :'(

I need a better metal detector. It catches some, but totally misses others. What are you all using? I have a Lumber Wizard4. Maybe Garrett Wade? 

[fishfighter]

Had my tree guy drop of a few nice SYP logs yesterday. Was doing some dirt work, so I just pushed them into the pond. DanG neck problems has been keeping me from doing any heavy labor. Going in for a CT scan this morning and hoping they can do something to relive the pain I been in. 

[Magicman]

My business profile is different.  I have a Lumber Wizard, HandymanNailfinder, and a Garrett 250 but since I only saw customer's logs I do not use them.  They are for the customer to use. 

[Magicman]

My next 3 job sites are too wet to saw.  Gotta wait, but there is additional rain in the forecast.  I know that they will be there when it dries out, plus we always need the moisture but I hate waiting.  That plus it is 82° today. 

If I had a brand spanking new Widehead and a shed to park it under I could be sawing and sipping on a Purple Drank.

[E-Tex]

I have some nice big SYP to saw.  The big ones are 32-36" (biggest I've saw'd).
He wants some 8"x8" and 10"x10" post out of them.

I'd like some advice on going about this please.

I know logs aren't perfect in diameter and the pith will not be exactly centered.  Based on this drawing, in theory, can I get (4) 10x10 post out of a 32" log?  I think I've read to use about 70-75% of the log diameter to get your max-"usable" cant size......?  that about right?

I know I want to stay away from the pith to reduce bowing/bending.  If I were able to stay 2" at least from the pith, would that work?

Am I thinking about this right?

[Magicman]

SYP logs do not need end sealing because there will be no end checking such as you would experience with hardwoods.

You probably would be much better off sawing your 8X8's out of ~14" top end logs and your 10X10's out of ~17" top end logs.  Those appear to be good mature logs and you may be fortunate enough to get your timbers as you illustrated but you also could get some bowed timbers.  You could oversize a bit and do the final sizing later, but they still could bow after that is done.  Give one a shot and see how it turns out.  It will then give you a direction as to how to proceed with the others.  You did not state how long they are but look to be ~10'.  That shortness is in your favor.

[fishfighter]

I tried that one time sawing out four 6x6's out of a SYP. Log was 12' long. As they dried, sure a heck, they went the way they wanted. I also did it with a water oak and those dried straight.

[Southside]

Around here if you sawed RR ties that way they would be rejected, the local yard operator calls that quarter sawn. First time he said that to me I gave him the deer in the headlights look.

[Magicman]

Here is a picture of 124 timbers that I finished sawing last week;

With the exception of the 4X6's, each one of them came from a separate log.

[DPatton]

Must have been a fair amount of side lumber left from those.

[Magicman]

Nope, no side lumber because side lumber was not on the customer's cut list.

That job actually began waay back on Reply #8303: Whatcha Sawin' ??? in Sawmills and Milling

[E-Tex]

i'm not sure how many logs he has or how many of the smaller tops that can be used for the timbers.

sounds like for best results I need to take the timers out of the centers.....

[E-Tex]

customer had already end-sealed.......purdy though!

[Magicman]

Yup, I have also driven up to end sealed SYP and I say nothing.  

By the way, those are some mighty fine SYP logs.   ;D

[Remle]

i'm not sure how many logs he has or how many of the smaller tops that can be used for the timbers.

sounds like for best results I need to take the timers out of the centers.....

If you are willing to gamble, you can get a " centered heart " timber and 4  free of heart timbers out of the larger logs. On the smallest end of the timber, layout a centered heart timber. With a straight edge extend each side line, out to the diameter of the log, now you can measure out and draw a line parallel to the side of the center timber. This will show if the timber will be free of wane on the corners. If all of the timbers end up with no wane you have 5 timbers, 1 with heart centered and 4 free of heart all the same size. Should some wane be present you can reduce width of the center timber or the outer timbers to eliminate it. A free of heart timber is less likely to present the radial cracking that appears with the centered heart timber. The question of bowing is up for grabs as it is in any lumber, the better the log the better the chance the timber will remain straight, of course the longer the timber the greater chance bowing / twisting will occur.  Using this method you can lay out the logs to meet your needs for quantity of each timber required.

[Lawg Dawg]

I like to box my hearts....especially when they're on display! 



Got a "special log" in...that's my barn in the background 

[PA_Walnut]

If I had a brand spanking new Widehead and a shed to park it under I could be sawing and sipping on a Purple Drank.

MM, I've been told, "Never drink the purple KoolAid."  (even with a Wide LT...take it from me, those wide logs are unrelenting in yielding to my will!) 

[SawyerTed]

My first paying job!  Slabs for benches.  They were cut from dead standing oak.

[Magicman]

Those Oak bench slabs look nice and paying jobs are even nicer.