shngles?

[Gunny]

UB:

I think I'd run some 1"X2" stringers over those  old shingles, just to allow for a little airflow beneath the new wooden shakes/shingles.  I'm still doing the dino-dance with my hammer (just can't seem to convince myself that I need an air gun) and use 4d finish nails to mount them and have never lost even one to the winds (we had 125mph straight-line hit us the year I did the toolshed roof) that often blast their way through these parts.

One little note: I always "practice" on the side of the building least likely to be looked at by anyone first since, as you get more attuned to working with these things, your skills and ability to lay them for the beauty you're seeking will increase with every one previously set.  Perhaps the most awe-inspiring use of "shaking" I've ever seen is displayed in the hard-to-find book called "Shelter" (from the early '70s).  There is an awesome  full-page color photo of a dome-like structure called a "Pod".  I swear, one day before I'm tool old and crippled to do it, I'll build one for my grandkids here in our woodlot. 

If you aren't in a real big hurry, you might sticker them for 3-4 weeks, just to let them do whatecer it is they want to do in your pile, rather than on your roof or gable-ends.  When I get some time from all the other chores, I'll snap some dig-pics of my work with them and send them along.  Have fun.  They are a great way to enhance any structure.

[UNCLEBUCK]

10-4 Gunny that will be fun to see your projects . I hear ya about not enough time and thanks for explaining how ya did it . ;D

[Swede]

Long time ago we had wooden roofs here. The shingles was 16x4-5x1/4".

A big wheel was driven by any kind of engine and a crank forced a knife front and back, 1 stroke in 2-5 sec. I think.. The knife was sliding on a table and under it was an opening for the shingles to fall down. You had to hold a block on the table and turn it in time for geting good shingles.
Think they usally was made of spruce.

The shingles had to been placed in water for one day before nailing with one nail on boards wich usally wasn´t edged.
1:st row the shingles was cut 4", 2:nd row 8", 3:rd row 12" and 4:th row 16". Then climbing up the roof moving every  row 4" you get 4 layers. Ending at the top by cuting the shingles as when you started. Two wide boards was nailed to hold the top.
Think they was good  for at least 30 years if the right side was facing upwards.

Swede.

[D Martin]

I thought shakes were a textured type of shingle almost couragated. A few years ago I saw them at Home Depo. Sorry did I just swear? How is that texture acheived?

[Fla._Deadheader]

Shakes, as far as I know, are not sawn, they are "splits" from the block, similar to what Swede just described.

  I remember a machine that i saw operate once, from turn of the century (1800's) that had a wedge type knife device that struck the block on opposite sides at the same time.

[scottr]

Sawdust , I saw a video from Go Fast resaw company that had the conveyor shingle jig like you've discribed . Did anyone see the notched board method that logosol uses ?   Scott

[Doc]

You can make your own shakes by hand with a froe and mallet. It is a long hard process, but provides the rough texture.

FDH is right though, the shakes are splits off a block...cedar, white oak, pine, spruce...etc.

Doc

[ohsoloco]

I purchased a froe a few years ago, and tried to split my own shakes.  There must be some art to it that I don't yet have, cuz they didn't turn out too nice  :(

[Fla._Deadheader]

Takes the right bolt to make shakes.

  In Arky land, the old timers used water Oak.

  Takes a large old tree. Straight grain. Easy to split.

  When ya use a froe, ya need a good wood mallet. Hold the bolt tween yer feet, and strike down and twist at the same time. If the wood splits easy, you have some Dandy Shakes.  ;) ;D ;D  Nuttin to it.   :D :D :D

[Cuttingstuffup]

Hello! I'm needing some help operating my Woodmizer shingle maker. The instructions in the book just aren't enough. Is anyone experienced willing to call? 

[Chuck White]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Cuttingstuffup!

Wood-Mizer most likely has better instructions than were originally provided with the SLR!

If you want someone to call, it would be helpful to put more info in your profile!

[GAB]

Hello! I'm needing some help operating my Woodmizer shingle maker. The instructions in the book just aren't enough. Is anyone experienced willing to call?

I purchased a used SLR a few years ago and called the W-M office I purchased the mill from and one of the guys sent me and e-mail with the latest operating instructions that I then printed out.
Note: when using the SLR you need to alternate between two set points (on accuset II inmy case) as you saw a block down.
DON'T do as I did and try and get one more piece and clipped the clamping mechanism with the blade and yes I scrapped it.
Someone on the FF at one time suggested glueing some left overs together to reduce the waste volume.  I personally have not tried this.
GAB