End-sealing logs

[yieldmap]

How many of you seal the ends of logs after bucking? ???

Is this worth the time?

What do you use to seal?

Sawing with Perry and Everett last week, we could see where un-sealed logs checked in the last 2" when not sealed.  I painted the ends of this batch of logs with some $1 mis-mixed Exterior latex paint.  Not sure if it will work or not, but I've invested $1 and 2 hours into the project so far!  :-/

[Kirk_Allen]

I use Anchoreseal on all my logs as soon as they are bucked to size.  

I have had some that did not get sealed and when I cut those logs up and air dried I noticed 3-8 inches of each end was checked bad.  

No checking to date with the Anchorseal.  

Paint :(  I recently was asked to Quartersaw a largre number of Sycamore. The owner had painted the ends with paint to prevent the chekcing.  

Problem?  How do you center the heart if you cant see it?  It was next to impossible to see the endgrain of the logs thus making it difficult to properly center the log for Quarter Sawing.

I like the anchorseal because when it dries you can still see the endgrain pattern.

[RMay]

I sawed some logs for a customer that had painted his logs with dirt on the ends of the logs. Between the dirt and paint the sparks would fly :(  We had to cut the ends off  ;D

[Frank_Pender]

I used an end sealer on all of the hardwoods that I saw.  I had used Anchor Seal for a few years and have recently swithced to the same type of product for less money produced by Associated Chemists, Inc..  ;D I have been real happy with the results.  It too, dries clear so you can see the end grain.   It comes out of Portland, Oregon area.

  Like the others have indicated, it sure saves on the checking.   It is always best to apply before you begin sawing the  logs.   Doing each board is a real pain.

   If you go to Associate Chemists Inc. for search you will find their wide array of products  for the lumber industry.  They are located in Johnson City, Oregon, right on the outskirts of Portland.  Their phone is: 1-800-554-4666.

[maple flats]

Where would you find Anchor Seal, is that the Mfgr.?  ??? or just product name? ???

[Brad_S.]

Anchorseal is made by U.C. Coatings in Buffalo. Last time I bought some I paid $60 for 5 gallons delivered.
https://www.uccoatings.com/

[Larry]

Problem?  How do you center the heart if you cant see it?  It was next to impossible to see the endgrain of the logs thus making it difficult to properly center the log for Quarter Sawing.

I like the anchorseal because when it dries you can still see the endgrain pattern.

The picture to the left shows a dark green coating made by Valspar.  It was a free sample and I'll never use a dark color again for the reason Kirk stated.

I have been using Anchorseal for a long time...get it on asap and on the high dollar logs put on a second coat the next day.  I try em all, hunting for the best results for the least cost.  Anchorseal seems to always be the winner in the best results category.  Yeap and they make it in colors to.

Just now thought Jeff...Anchorseal could be a possible sponsor.

[maple flats]

Thanks, I found it at their web site. I think I'll try some this summer and see how well it works. Anyone ever try spraying it with an airless sprayer, such as a wagner cheapy?  8) 8)

[Larry]

Well I have put it on with a pump up sprayer...much prefer to put it on this way at the end of the day with a few adult beverages. ;D  The white color turns to clear when it dries.



Most of the time I put it on in the woods or a landing...would take a awful long extension cord for a Wagner sprayer. :D :D

[Kevin]

Do the boards split after the log is milled?

[Frank_Pender]

I have had some Big Leaf Maple split due to being boxed heart 1 x material.

[Brad_S.]

You can buy a pump sprayer from U. C. Coatings that is made to apply Anchorseal.

[Daren]

Anchorseal ! I have some in a garden spayer like Larry said, then spread it good with an old brush. I am new to milling, but it did not take me long to learn reject paint and the like doesn't cut it. I have stacks of sawed wood that split bad painted with junk other that Anchorseal. I have a guy that does some loggin for me, I keep him with a full 5 gallon bucket, I want them coated before he drives out of the timber.

Kevin, not with Anchorseal, with leftover paint it will.

Kirk, at least some people know to at least try. I get calls from people that say they have a log they want sawed that has been down for 6 months with nothing on it. If they say they are fresh cutting, I try to get them some Anchorseal.

yeildmap,I pay less for logs not endsealed. Might as well do it right, and make a sawyers day ;D

[Ironwood]

I LOVE ANCHOR SEAL. REID

[rebocardo]

I like Anchor Seal, it does a pretty good job and even stays on in a light rain if it is dried.

[southview]

If the logs weren't sealed right away and now it is 6 months later is it still a good idea to seal them?

I have used left over semi-transparent stain on logs on have seen no checking (except in willow) and even though it doesn't dry clear it does dry clear enough to see the grain.

[populus]

Once cracks start, sealing doesn't seal, since moisture can evaporate through the cracks. You could recut the ends and seal them. We do that with older logs and it works well.

I put my 2 cents in for Anchor Seal as well, but we are about to try the Bailey's sealer. We'll report a comparison after we've tried them both.

[Dan_Shade]

hmm, i figured sealing even after they cracked would work...  basically, the moisture can get out of end grain easier than the faces of the boards, so sealing even a split board/log would clog up the pores that want to let the water out...

I've been wrong before, though.

[beenthere]

Dan
You are right (IMO), the end grain sealed is better than not sealed.

Just similar to 'closing the barn door after the horse is out', but still closing it before all the other horses also get out. 

I'd seal the ends if convenient, rather than cut off the ends just to wind up with a fresh cut. More wood lost if removing the log ends, than just sealing the partially dried ends, IMO.

[TexasTimbers]

I had used Anchor Seal for a few years and have recently swithced to the same type of product for less money produced by Associated Chemists, Inc..  ;D I have been real happy with the results.  It too, dries clear so you can see the end grain.   It comes out of Portland, Oregon area.

Frank, they sold that division to Valspar in August of last year, 2 months after you made your post, and I couldn't find any info on the Valspar website on it. I wanted to compare the two in price and see how much of a difference there was. I need to buy one or the other. The loghomestore.com sells Anchorseal for $49.95 plus shipping. Dunno if there is a better place to buy it or not.
Where doyou guys get your Anchor Seal?
KJ

[GF]

I use anchor seal on all the logs I cut, really like the product, seems to work very well.

I have dried red oak with and without the ends being sealed and it makes a major difference.

[populus]

Go straight to the manufacturer. It's no cheaper anywhere else, and they ship and deliver quickly:  UC Coatings

[gary]

I got on anchor seal"s website today after reading this. Now they are sending me a quart as a free sample.

[moosehunter]

I just recieved a bucket of Baileys sealer. Anyone tried it? I'll post my thoughts on it as soon as I try it.
MH

[Gilman]

I've used the Bailey's brand, about 10 gallons worth.  I think all of the wax based sealers work just about the same. 

Frank pointed out using a roller instead of a brush, works much quicker. 

Harbor freight had a cordless spray gun that I wanted to try.  I looked on their website, but can't find it anymore.