Champion 27 Ton Splitter- Hydraulics Issues

[JJinAK]

I have a fairly new 27 ton Champion Splitter- purchased last summer, which up until recently has performed flawlessly.  The last couple of times I've used it, it has had some issues on the return side of the hydraulics.

• Issue #1 was the return hose from the valve to the filter failed- at both ends.  The supply hydraulics are "hard" plumbed with threaded connections, and the return line was just secured with hose clamps on a barbed fitting.  The hose ended up failing at both ends- including the ever eventful "blow the hose off the barb" situation at the valve.  My solution here was to simply get a hose made with threaded fittings and hard plumb the return line.  Works perfect.
• Issue #2 was the O-Ring gasket on the filter failed.  The filter is brand new- less than 4 hours on it.  To me this indicates an over-pressure issue on the return side.  There isn't a pressure relief in the pump, or at least there doesn't appear to be one.  The valve has an adjustment, but that appears to be more for flow- by reducing or extending the stroke of the valve lever.

I actually like this splitter.  It is fast, efficient and powerful.  We deal with a lot of large diameter wood here- mostly Spruce and Hemlock, and this thing hasn't found a knot it can't handle....yet.  This splitter has the vented tank, which is clear and functioning fine.  Just seems like something has changed, and it sort feels like I'm chasing my tail.

I'm open to thoughts and some other things to check.  Being in Juneau makes the logistics of returning or working with the manufacturer a bit more of a challenge.

Jeff

[jmur1]

I have an older version of the 17 ton splitter (similar to below).  I do not have a filter on mine, but have experienced the over-pressure behavior on the return side.  I have tried to vary the oil level and the oil viscosity with little luck.  Mine does show serious air mix into the oil when it goes into this so I wonder if the return line needs to be submerged to reduce the air mixing.  My tank may also be undersized for the pump GPM.  Is your tank sandwiched between the wheels?  I can see the oil air mix since my supply line is transparent.  Do you have a spot in the filter coupling where you could put a pressure valve into?  Should be around 10-15 psi.  I have read alot of online complaints about plugged filter housings or filter tops.  There may be a pressure bypass built into this housing that could also be your problem.



 

If I get this sorted Ill update this post!

jmur1    

[Hilltop366]

Is it the correct filter? Not just same physical size but correct number. 

Some filters have less paper in them and will restrict the flow also some filters have a bypass valve in them while others do not.

Also is there any chance the o ring from the old filter stuck on the housing and you ended up with two o rings?

[JJinAK]

I have an older version of the 17 ton splitter (similar to below).  I do not have a filter on mine, but have experienced the over-pressure behavior on the return side.  I have tried to vary the oil level and the oil viscosity with little luck.  Mine does show serious air mix into the oil when it goes into this so I wonder if the return line needs to be submerged to reduce the air mixing.  My tank may also be undersized for the pump GPM.  Is your tank sandwiched between the wheels?  I can see the oil air mix since my supply line is transparent.  Do you have a spot in the filter coupling where you could put a pressure valve into?  Should be around 10-15 psi.  I have read alot of online complaints about plugged filter housings or filter tops.  There may be a pressure bypass built into this housing that could also be your problem.



 

If I get this sorted Ill update this post!

jmur1    

Yeah, the tank sits between the tires.  The capacity is around 4 gallons, and I know it's not a supply issue.  I don't see much air going into the pump, and I also don't hear much in the way of cavitation.  I don't know if the filter housing has a bypass in it anywhere, but I'll try to take a look.  I actually called the factory about it yesterday and his suggestion was to slow the cycle speed down.  I wasn't super impressed by that answer.......  He did say that they made a change to now hard plumb the return line and not use the barbed/clamped hoses.  He was quick to send me a replacement hose, filter, and filter housing.  I'll see what happens next.....

[JJinAK]

Is it the correct filter? Not just same physical size but correct number.

Some filters have less paper in them and will restrict the flow also some filters have a bypass valve in them while others do not.

Also is there any chance the o ring from the old filter stuck on the housing and you ended up with two o rings?

I was thinking the same thing.  The filter was a NAPA equivalent.  The manufacturer recommends Wix, Fram, or K&N.  Last night I picked up the Wix recommended filter, so I'll try that next.  I'm pretty diligent about checking the o-ring, as I've learned that lesson before- and that wasn't the case.

[luap]

Some thoughts on hydraulic design. Return line should enter tank below oil level to prevent air mixing. Two stage pumps do have a pressure relief adjustment but it is for at what pressure second stage operates. the valve will also have a pressure relief but that is for operating pressure.  If you are building pressure in return line there is restriction taking place. I would up the size of the return line, filter (micron size) and filter housing.  Cold weather can be a factor  in having the right oil for your operating environment temp. upping the size of all the hoses can help, gives you max cycle time.  Tank size has more to do with providing adequate cooling than any thing else. Mass produced  products are usually built to a price point and with just a few changes can be a really good machine.

[gspren]

I would think a small leak on the suction side could allow air to enter and mix.