Cutting a large notch out

[NorthRick]

Long time lurker, first time posting.  I am building a remote cabin in Alaska.  It is going to be a hybrid of timbers and stick-frame.  For the design I have, I need to cut notches out of the ends of white spruce 8"x8" timbers I milled with a chainsaw mill.

I've cut one of these notches using a circular saw and a sawzall and it was a pain in the butt and I don't like the result.  The main problem being that I need to make square cuts that don't go all the way through the wood.  I cut what I could with the circular saw and then followed up with the sawzall using blades with the end cut off such that they were just the right length for the cut at full stroke.  There were two problems with this:  1) it was slow going; and 2) the blade would not cut straight at the end of the cut.

I think a big part of the problem was the type of blade I was using.  I've bought different ones that I'm going to try but I'm wondering if there is a better way to go about this.



 

[Brad_bb]

Wondering if you really need to do it this way?  Doesn't look like traditional design to me.  Can you post a pic of what you're trying to achieve?  How things fit together?

I don't like the amount of wood you're removing versus the small amount you're leaving. With that said, one way to do it would be with a chain mortiser to cut a path in two directions, then chainsaw to free the block on the bottom side.  Then use a slick and chisel to clean it up and make the bottom square.  Typical timberframing tools.

But like I said, I'd question this design first.

[NorthRick]

Thanks for your concern.  There is nothing "traditional" about this.  I don't want to get into the design, but to alleviate your worry, the 6.5" by 6.5" area on the bottom of the timber will be supporting the load and is well more than adequate for the weight it will bear.

I guess I should add that I only have 3 more of these corners to cut and don't want to buy tools I won't use again.  As said, it is not a traditional timber frame (more post and beam) and a chain mortiser isn't in the cards.  I'm looking more for suggestions using every day wood working tools.

[Brad_bb]

Well if you rough out the block with a chainsaw, then you can go back with a 1.5" or 2" framing chisel and mallet to clean it up and square the bottom pretty easily.  You can purchase a new Barr chisel or buy a good restored chisel from Jim Rogers.  He has a tools for sale list in the for sale section.  Jim sells good tools, no junk.  I've bought at least half a dozen refurbished old tools from him.  Make sure you get a framing chisel, not a firmer chisel or other woodworking chisel.  Framing chisels have a square edge and are heavier/stronger.

[Brian_Weekley]

I don't want to get into the design

Please share, we'd be interested.  It's unusual—never seen something cut that narrow and deep before.

[JohnW]

Hey, I have an idea for using a chainsaw.  Clamp two 2x4"s to your bar like a sandwich, with the required 6" (or what ever) of bar exposed from the tip of the bar to the 2x4"s.  You know, situate the boards and bar like a cross with plenty of board sticking out on either side.  If you happen to have good clamps, a short bar, and you're very careful, you might be able to do this without getting cut.

[NorthRick]

Hey, I have an idea for using a chainsaw.  Clamp two 2x4"s to your bar like a sandwich, with the required 6" (or what ever) of bar exposed from the tip of the bar to the 2x4"s.  You know, situate the boards and bar like a cross with plenty of board sticking out on either side.  If you happen to have good clamps, a short bar, and you're very careful, you might be able to do this without getting cut.

I think I will try something like this.  I'm heading up to the cabin tomorrow for the weekend to work on it and will let you know how it works.

[doc henderson]

I got this but never have used it, also have a skill worm drive saw to put it on.



 

[NorthRick]

So, I went with the chainsaw idea for cutting the corner notches.  Worked pretty good.  I still used a circular saw and sawzall for the end of the notch.  I bought a different sawzall blade and after snapping the end off to get the right length, I filed the end sharp.  It cut much better and I was able to cut the rest of these without too much trouble.



 



 

[Ljohnsaw]

Looks good but I like to make it so errors don't ruin the piece.  The long guide piece I see as a problem.  By your design, it prevents you from leaving too thick of a remnant.  But it does not prevent you from making it too small and ruining the sill/beam.  I would attach the guide piece to the beam.  Then, the 2x4 blocks would ride against that and you are somewhat protected from a bobble with the saw.

But, let us see what you are making! ???

[scsmith42]

I got this but never have used it, also have a skill worm drive saw to put it on.

Doc, I have one of these and they work great on timberframing.  I've found that pulling them sends the sawdust to the floor instead of up into my face when I push them.
Gitcha a worm drive saw and try it out - I think that you'll like it.
Scott

[NorthRick]

Looks good but I like to make it so errors don't ruin the piece.  The long guide piece I see as a problem.  By your design, it prevents you from leaving too thick of a remnant.  But it does not prevent you from making it too small and ruining the sill/beam.  I would attach the guide piece to the beam.  Then, the 2x4 blocks would ride against that and you are somewhat protected from a bobble with the saw.

But, let us see what you are making! ???

It wasn't hard to keep a little bit of pressure to the right during the cut to keep the guide piece against the outside of the timber and, hence, maintaining the right thickness.

It will be easier to post photos of what I am building then trying to describe it.  However, it will be at least a few weeks before I have something assembled to take a picture of.  I'll post it when I do.

[doc henderson]

looks like it worked well! 8)