Alaskin Type Mill

[Hemlock121]

Hi.  Im new to the forum. 

I just cut down two 20" diameter red pine trees and was wondering about purchasing an Alaskan mill and creates posts and boards so the trees wont end up at firewood.  Does anyone have thoughts about an Alaskan Mill, brands and tips on creating the best wood?  The logs are in Ontario and I plan to process them in October when the bugs are not to bad.  Any information or education would be much appreciated!

[Nebraska]

It starts with something like that, first it's "well I need a chainsaw to clean up after that storm", then you move to a new place then " its a bigger saw for firewood", then with me a "beam machine" because "boy I hate to saw that up and just burn it". It progresses to a chainsaw mill, more saws, you spend time lurking reading about folks actually  doing what you want, finally you break down and buy a mill.  It might be kind of an affliction. Chainsaw mills are work but you can get good lumber. Mine is a shop built one but similar to a Granberg. Good luck and have fun with it.

[Brad_bb]

Welcome to the forum Hemlock121!  First, if you put your location in your profile, it will show up in each post.  When people know where you are, it helps answer questions relative to the wood available to you, weather, who's around you, etc.

I own an Alaskan mill as do many on this forum.  I also own a Woodmizer band mill.  Alaskan mills can be hard work, and slow work.  They don't just zip through the log.  I have a 56 inch mill with a Stihl 090 sawhead.  I can mill at about 10-12 inches per minute.  So an 8 foot log takes about 10 -12 minutes for a cut not including set up, and preparation.  I've found that the best use for Alaskan mills is wide slabbing for table tops.   My bandsaw cannot do this, but for much less money but a lot more labor, an Alaskan mill can.  For me, it's too slow and difficult to do it to make boards. It's just not practical.  A band mill will do it so much faster and more efficiently.  If you really plan to mill, get a bandsaw.  An alaskan mill is a good tool to have to make wide slabs for yourself.  If there was a wide band mill near me that could do my larger logs, and I had the ability to move them there, I'd rather do that than use the Alaskan.  Unfortunately, I can't move large logs like that. That is the other benefit of the Alaskan, you can take it to wherever the wood is.  Good luck!

[Brian C.]

Welcome Hemlock121. At one time, I too, thought about an Alaskan mill. I had a couple of chainsaws, but not one big enough to power the mill. So i would need to buy a larger saw head, longer bar, chains, etc. By the time I priced it out, it wasn't that much more to buy a lt15. It would save a lot of labor and time. Just my three cents (inflation).

[RAYAR]

Welcome to this great forum, Hemlock121.

One of the best things a chainsaw mill has going for it is the portability of bringing it to the log.

Ray

[Southside]

One of the best things a chainsaw mill has going for it is the portability of bringing it to the log.

And here I thought you were going to say "there is always a younger guy who wants to buy it from you" :D

[mad murdock]

Welcome Helmock121! I started with an Alaskan MkIII and still have it. It has its place. I milled around 10 mbf with it, then graduated to a bumblebee sawmill, still a chainsaw bar and chain, then more recently to a Turbosawmill ultra lightweight warrior, still chainsaw powered but super fast at milling plus highly portable and as a Swingblade mill, able to break down supersized logs without ever turning the log. The largest log so far has been a redwood about 72" dia and 12 for long. Scale on that log was about 1400 bd ft. I think I got close to 1600 sawn board feet out of it. Currently I am lengthening my beam to 36'. That will allow me to cut up to 32' material. Granberg international makes the Alaskan.  There are others similar, but none tha t I know if are as light or as proven as the granberg Alaskan.

[Don P]

People say its slow and it sure isn't fast but the time varies quite a bit. The speed equation variables that I'm thinking of at the moment are chain type (and sharpness!), power, chain speed, density of the wood and width of cut. Brad's times seemed slow to me but I don't know the variables. I had a friend time us on a cut yesterday. A 3120 Husky running at around 11k, super skip chain in 20" butternut at 8' long, 2 of us on the saw, one on each end guiding the bar. We were in cut for 4 minutes not trying to set any records, just doing what the equipment could without bogging.

[bwstout]

I know one thing about the Alaskan mill, it takes a good saw, I burned up a new xp550 3 years ago in July under the Texas heat sawing a 12" black walnut and I burned out too ;D now I have a band mill.  I Might be interested in selling mine to that "young man" :D 

[lxskllr]

I know one thing about the Alaskan mill, it takes a good saw, I burned up a new xp550 3 years ago in July

That's something else that's demotivated me to try my new mill. I don't like the heat myself, and it's been hot here. Not quite Texas hot, but still unreasonable for playing outside. The only thing worse than sweating over a screaming saw engine, is sweating over a silent saw engine. Took my brand new 661 to work yesterday, and took it home without using it. I'm gonna wait til it's cooler to mill the ash, but I'm getting impatient. Wish fall would get here...

[woodybutcher]

Hey all, Im new to FF but thought Id add my three cents in also. Like several said the Alaskan mill is extra work, but an economical way to get into sawing. Once the bug bites you... you cant get away. That being said, I have used an Alaskan of one size or another for several years. mostly to saw beams that we didnt have a mill long enough to saw. one was 45ft long 13in x13in out of white oak. It was the main floor support log across the basement walls in a log cabin. 

[Brad_bb]

I don't want to CSM above 85 degrees.  That's actually hotter than I'd like.  Anything below 65 degrees is best for me.  I last CSM'd in early June and that's because it was unseasonably cool.  I won't CSM again until October probably.

[cbla]

I don't want to CSM above 85 degrees.  That's actually hotter than I'd like.  Anything below 65 degrees is best for me.  I last CSM'd in early June and that's because it was unseasonably cool.  I won't CSM again until October probably.

Yup.... Way to hot for the saw and sawyer.  Hemlock121, if you only have a few logs and they are easy to get at look around your area for someone with a portable band saw mill.

[Hemlock121]

Hi Guys,

This is great information.  I purchased a mill from Amazon for bar sizes 14-36 inches.  I plan to use my old Poulan 3700 with a 24 inch bar.  That way, if I burn out the saw, I still have my Sthil.  Where is the best place to purchase a ripping chain and is there a specific degree cutter that I would want to order?

Thanks,

Bruce 

[woodybutcher]

Hemlock, I but mine from a local shop, dont know whats close to you. I have used regular chain up to 42 in and I felt like it did ok. The newest Alaskan I bought is 72in and my shop reccomended 10 deg skip ripping chain since it was so long. I will be using a husky 3120 to  power it.

[sealark37]

If you decide on the Alaskan mill, be sure to recruit a friend or two to go with you to saw.

[Brad_bb]

You can buy skip rip chain from Granberg.  Count the number of links on your existing chain so you know how many links to specify for the new rip chain.  Bailey's also sells rip chain.  Those are the only two I know.  I'm sure Stihl has it, but probably in a roll and not made up into the loop size you need.  You can get the tools to squash the rivets so you can add and remove links and make up your own loops.  Granberg will loop it for you when you specify the number of links.  You also need to know the bar groove width and general chain size that the saw head is set up for.

[mredden]

20" diameter pine trees shouldn't be too bad with the right saw. 90 ccs will cut like butter. 70ccs are gonna strain some but should be doable in that soft wood at that size in an Alaskan.

If you are using a Granberg style Alaskan Mill, I would say you need to run a 28" bar to be able to clamp in and leave your chain brake operable. Do you have enough saw to push and oil that bar properly? A (vertical) beam maker oil's your cutting edge better, and is less taxing on the saw and you than than a (horizontal) Alaskan.

It can be hard work for one person though pine is soft enough to lessen the strain. (pecan is physically whipping my 64-year old butt at this time).

Hints: Gravity is your friend. Use it!
......... Learn to sharpen like a pro. Skip chain is quicker and helps clear the cut.
......... Plan thoroughly before you cut INCLUDING your plan for stacking in place or hauling
......... Learn to sharpen like a pro.
......... Know and do not exceed your physical limits.
......... Learn to sharpen like a pro.
......... Metal detector helps :-[
......... Learn to sharpen like a pro.
......... Mo' oil in that gas and richen up that carb
......... Learn to sharpen like a pro.
......... small oil and gas containers for freshening on the log
......... Learn to sharpen like a pro and get those rakers where you and your saw like them best.
......... Quit when you are tired before you start making mistakes and endangering yourself
......... Learn to sharpen like a pro.

I'm a newbie, hobbyist, weekend - warrior who mills only on Saturdays and holidays. I work alone on hardwood that exceeds 30 inches. I'm slow and I only have a 390xp - the 3120xp is calling my name though. 30" pecan is pushing my limits and that of my saw.

I build a treated lumber LEVEL frame near downhill of my log so I can slide the board downhill and onto that frame. Then, I sticker stack right there and ratchet strap the boards to the frame each day . I cover the stack with linoleum (over stickers_ at the end of each work day to protect from sun & rain. When the log is complete, I let the stack dry in place for a month or two before haulin it off to an ever expanding drying shed.

It's 95-ish degrees every day right now. I'm only cutting about two 12' x 30" cuts per Saturday morning in this heat. Sticker, stack, strap, cover and return to shop to sharpen for next Saturday then head to the pool. That's all my old azz and my saw want in this heat. But, it's a good-n-tired feeling when I hit the pool.