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Homemade power feed questions

Started by Kwill, July 24, 2019, 05:46:39 PM

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Kwill

Quote from: bags on July 25, 2019, 08:36:04 PM
I have my power feed set up use'in the K.I.S.S. method. One wheelchair motor mounted on one side, and a PWM and drum switch on the other. The mill doesn't rack even at fast speed if I'm cut'in down a cant for 2 X 4's. A good battery last me all day as WC motors don't pull all that much juice.



Got anymore pics of your setup?
Built my own hydraulic splitter
Built my own outdoor wood stove
Built my own log arch
built my own bandsaw sawmill
Built my own atv log arch.
Built my own FEL grapple

kelLOGg

Quote from: Kwill on July 25, 2019, 03:10:29 PM

 Only problem I forsee is the 24 volt side of it. No way to charge the batterys while running it. Although while milling in my shed I could have a charger hooked up to the batterys.
I use a 4 pole double throw center off switch to operate at 24 VDC and charge at 12 VDC. 
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

bags

The above pic is probably the best view of the feed I have--- didn't take a whole lot of pictures since folks didn't seem to have much interest in it. Its pretty much set up the same as woodmizers feed (except ya don't have to pay a thousand extra for the orange paint).

The drum switch is the forward and reverse--- the PWM controls the feed speed, and the WC motor is of course, the power drive. I have the battery just hang'in on the side of the mill till I put the mill back on its trailer.



kelLOGg

I got tired of rewiring my batteries from series (for 24 VDC operation) to parallel (for 12 VDC charging) so I installed a switch as mentioned earlier in this thread to make it easier.  

In the schematic when the switch is flipped to connect the center terminals to the upper contacts this puts the batteries in parallel for 12 VDC charging and conversely flipping the other direction makes a series circuit giving 24 VDC for operation. It takes a pretty hefty switch - mine is 18 amps. If you try it, do it with two 1.5 volt batteries for testing. You don't want to miswire with high current batteries. Hope this helps.





 
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

charles mann

Quote from: kelLOGg on July 26, 2019, 07:33:13 PM
I got tired of rewiring my batteries from series (for 24 VDC operation) to parallel (for 12 VDC charging) so I installed a switch as mentioned earlier in this thread to make it easier.  

In the schematic when the switch is flipped to connect the center terminals to the upper contacts this puts the batteries in parallel for 12 VDC charging and conversely flipping the other direction makes a series circuit giving 24 VDC for operation. It takes a pretty hefty switch - mine is 18 amps. If you try it, do it with two 1.5 volt batteries for testing. You don't want to miswire with high current batteries. Hope this helps.
it definitely helped me. i would have ended up buying 1 of our avionics guys a LOT of bar served beverages to help me figure this out. well, i still don't fully understand it, but i think i can figure it out.
can you flip voltage "on the go" so to speak? meaning, for a faster raising of the head, throw 24v to the motor and for more control and slower downed, switch it to 12v?

also, where can a person obtain 1 of those 4 pole switches? any automotive parts house?
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

Crusarius

search 4pdt switch

https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Heavy-Toggle-Switch/dp/B001TJ6O9M

This may be worthwhile endeavor. I need to try 24 volts to my motor and see if it will go up any faster. If it does I may just get a dc to dc converter so I do not need an extra battery.

kelLOGg

The search for "4pdt switch" yields many hits. I prefer the solder connections so vibrations have no effect.

I see no reason not to switch from 12 to 24 at will. Basically, that's what you do when you turn on any motor. My switch has a "center off" position giving a slight delay between voltages but I don't think it is necessary.
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: Crusarius on July 26, 2019, 08:53:24 PMsearch 4pdt switch

I did that, too, and found the same ones.  I'm just leery of those little screw terminals that are so close together and attaching batteries to them.  I did find one with spade terminals that I thought would work better.

Please post what you find in terms of a dc-dc converter.   I, too, would like to switch to 24v when I'm raising my head.  It goes pretty slow on 12v.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038
Ford 545D FEL
Genie S45
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Case 16+4 Trencher
Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Crusarius

may have to start a new thread since this one has probably been hijacked enough :) The biggest issue I am finding with DC to DC converter is my motor draws 10-12 amps on 12 volts. my electronics guy I work with says the draw will be higher on 24v So I will need a pretty hefty converter or a second battery.

bwstout

Hear is a heavy duty switch that I bought form electrical scooter parts to use as a forward and reversing switch it will take some heavy amps I ran 24 volts. I burn up several of the small dpdt now I have a drum switch



home built mill

kelLOGg

I just posted a motor/gear reducer assembly in the FOR SALE forum which my be of interest.
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

twobears

@bwstout out do you have a link for that switch?.. never mind I found it.

bwstout

home built mill

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