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WM adjustment

Started by summerjob, May 12, 2005, 01:27:09 PM

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summerjob

How often do you have to realign your saw head.  I have an LT 27.  I notice on the last board that the blade is not parallel to the bed and one side of the board is thicker than the other.  It is not out end to end just side to side.  Is there anything special I should look for any advice on making adjustments.  Is this an adjustment that needs to be done often.
Thanks in advance for your responses.

Stephen

Hi Summerjob.
It's not often I have something to say that hasn't already been said.

I have a 1994 lt40 and never had to adjust much. You can do this in about five steps. First check that the rails are clean and not building up (top and Bottom). Second, check the rollers and bearings against the top and bottom rails. Third, follow the manaul, and only make one slight adjustment at a time. Fifth, follow the manaul, and only make one slight adjustment at a time, and last, follow the manaul, and only make one slight adjustment at a time.  :)
Good luck.
Stephen
1994 WoodMizer LT40G18. 69 acres mixed wood. 1952 ford tractor, Norse 290 winch, studed Norse ice chains. 45-66DT Fiat.

customsawyer

Well the only advise I can offer is follow the manual and make one slight adjustment at a time. :D
Summerjob it sounds like it could be one of a few different things and the best way for you to find them is to go through your mill alignment section in the manual it will help you in the future to find it yourself check a few things and then let us know what you find.

Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

Tom

Going by the manual is the proper way to do it.  But, before you make any radical adjustments try to think of the simplest things that may be causing the problem.  Yes the head of the mill may be out of whack but the problem could be as simple as one blade guide roller being lower than the other.

If you mess with the cam followers on the bottom rail, be sure that you don't cause the little triangular piece of metal that is used to keep the head from falling off, to bind on the rail.  Also make sure that it still does its job and locks the head against the rail when you bottom the head on its pin for travel.

Bibbyman

Quote from: Tom on May 12, 2005, 08:35:17 PM
If you mess with the cam followers on the bottom rail, be sure that you don't cause the little triangular piece of metal that is used to keep the head from falling off, to bind on the rail.  Also make sure that it still does its job and locks the head against the rail when you bottom the head on its pin for travel.

Tom is right on.. check the blade guide rollers first.  Also check the outer blade guide frame to see if it's tight and adjusted right.

If you need to adjust the cam followers on the bottom rail - move them VERY little.  I'm talking 1/16 of a turn at a time 

We once had a very large log roll back off the mill and onto the loading arms that were not quite all the way down.  ROCK-N-ROLL!   :o  After that I noted that boards about 12" wide would be a little thick on one side.  I ended up adjusting the cam rollers 1/8 turn (one flat).  Turned out,  it was too much.  Had to back them off 1/16 turn.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

summerjob

Thanks everyone.  I won't get a chance to look at it until next week.  Ever since I bought the mill used ( 4 years ago) I have been able to pick up the free standing side of the head a good 3 or 4 inches.  Should there be that much play in the guide rollers.  All the bearings are fine.

sparks

Since you bought the mill used you have know knowledge of where things are. As the other guys said, go to the manual to, the complete alignment section, and follow it step by step. It's better to check it all than to skip over some. Making an adjustment that is halfway through the proceedure would only compensate fot some other setting that is out. Start at the beginning and that way youy know for sure it's right. If you don't have a current manual let me know. I can email you the PDF file and you can print out your own uptdate manual.  Thanks
\"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves.\" Abraham Lincoln

summerjob

I check this sight on a daily basis and have learned alot.  You guys provide a wealth of knowledge.  I thought this might have been a dumb question that I could just look in my manual, but now I am glad I ask, because I would have just tried to adjust the track and rollers not thinking of the blade guide or other adjustments.  Thanks Again

woodmills1

Before you change anything check the height of your blade.  That is set the indicator at say 10" and move the blade over one of the log bunk supports.  Move the blade guide all the way out and then measure the distance from the support to the blade, first near the rails then in middle then all the way out.  Then do the same thing with your blade engaged and the motor not running.  If you see a major difference/variation from the 10" or what ever height you set the indicator at you need adjustment.  If you dont see difference then maybe your cant is getting pused up just a bit on the outside when you clamp it.
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

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