Return of the Husqvarna 562XP

[HolmenTree]

So I'm dedicating this thread to my 562XP.
As I previously posted in my thread "Return of the Stihl 066Magnums".
I said my eight  year old 562XP is now permanently retired due to hot start issues.

Well last evening after looking at the 562 sitting on the shelf by its self I took it down onto the bench and pulled its top cover off.
This saw doesn't have the upgraded cover with the hole below the decomp button like the latest 562 has.
So I made a  hot air exhaust hole in the cover just  like the factory did....only twice as big and removing some of the bottom edge too.

Today with the 562XP now out of retirement I put it to work in some oversize poplar limbing and bucking.
Warm day and worked it hard and everytime I shut it off a minute later it would start on the first pull without setting the fast idle first.

Unbelievable,  I should have done this years ago.
I would keep this modified cover for the warm /hot months and for the cold winter months I'll have another non ported cover to keep the carb from icing up.

Until the day I get a MS462 or MS500i the  562XP is the best heavy limbing and light bucking saw!

Here's some pics.
The last two are of the Oregon 18" bar with the old 1980's Powermatch Double Guard 9 tooth 3/8" sprocket nose I run.
Smoothest safest bar you can run.


 

 

[Air Lad]

So the hot restart issue is resolved by better ventilation around the cylinder top. Could make a valid case for better breathing mufflers (sometimes aftermarket or modified), to get the hot gasses away from the machine better.

[outinthewood]

I did a video of the old non vented cover v the new vented cover on a 550 a couple of years ago and got a result of 3 to 4 degrees cooler with the new cover, 2016 they started fitting the new cover I recall ?

[HolmenTree]

Years ago I muffler modded the 562XP but it didn't  help the hot start issues.
To make the top cover heat venting hole I first outlined it with a felt marker. Drilled some holes and cut it out with a carpet knife.
Also cut out the lip on the bottom of the cover and to the left towards the air filter allowing more heat to discharge.

I think anyone making a living with a 562XP  needs to have 2 top covers one modified like I just explained for warm/hot weather.
And a old style no port cover for winter use in cold to freezing temperatures.

[HolmenTree]

Still never have  set the fast idle on the 562XP for a hot start. 
Totally different saw with the modified top cover.
It and the 066 Magnums are sharing the work load removing 10 oversized cotton woods for a customer. 


 

 

 

[HolmenTree]

Weeks later now since the 562XP received its top cover modification it has reprogrammed itself into a very reliable starting saw,  plus a strong powerband like it had 8 years earlier in its life.
Still has the original carb diaphragms and the only thing I replaced on it was a few spark plugs and 2 anti vibe mounts.

I hope it's not ready to blow up as they tend to run the best right before they do so. :D

[Sprinter]

Willard,
Did you ever get a software update on your 562? If so, did you notice any difference?
thanks,   Fred

[HolmenTree]

Willard,
Did you ever get a software update on your 562? If so, did you notice any difference?
thanks,   Fred

Fred,
Since I bought that 2012 562XP brand new I never did get its software updated.
I did get my dealer to check the hours once. At that time it had over a 1000 hrs on it.

[Sprinter]

Mine was built about the same time as yours and I get a little nervous about software updates. Probably, too much computer time over the years! Some interesting reading over at OPE. It's a new saw but worth the read.

LINK REMOVED BY ADMIN. READ THE RULES UNDER TROLLING

As for starting, I rarely used the de-comp so I plugged it.
On cold start I full choke 'til it pops, then drop start with the throttle open and choke off.
Usually starts right up.
On hot start I just drop start with full throttle! Don't think I've used high idle.

[John Mc]

To make the top cover heat venting hole I first outlined it with a felt marker. Drilled some holes and cut it out with a carpet knife. Also cut out the lip on the bottom of the cover and to the left towards the air filter allowing more heat to discharge.

Can you show some pictures of the lip you cut out?

[HolmenTree]

To make the top cover heat venting hole I first outlined it with a felt marker. Drilled some holes and cut it out with a carpet knife. Also cut out the lip on the bottom of the cover and to the left towards the air filter allowing more heat to discharge.

Can you show some pictures of the lip you cut out?

Good sized piece of plastic cut out right here.

[Spike60]

Willard, is that 1000 hours run time? That's actually quite remarkable. Definitely in the highest percentile.

The deal with the cutout in the top cover is said to buy you about 10 degrees of good restarting. IE, if the problem would manifest itself at 80 degrees, you'd now be safe up to 90. But it doesn't totally go away.

What temps have you been running that saw at? I know your temps up there are a little different than what I experience down here.

[HolmenTree]

Willard, is that 1000 hours run time? That's actually quite remarkable. Definitely in the highest percentile.

The deal with the cutout in the top cover is said to buy you about 10 degrees of good restarting. IE, if the problem would manifest itself at 80 degrees, you'd now be safe up to 90. But it doesn't totally go away.

What temps have you been running that saw at? I know your temps up there are a little different than what I experience down here.

Bob, yesterday afternoon it got up to 81F with a fair amount of humidity (it was muggy) that's when I had to set the fast idle again for a hot start.
 But the saw was working hard and making heat and this was our hottest day so far this year.
I think a dry 81F would make a difference though as with humidity at that temperature it's darn hard on me let alone the 562.
I wonder if a custom external air filter would help cool the carb and processor down?

[outinthewood]

The heat "shield" fitted to the 572 has pretty much given a two section top cover, it's so effective that you can place your hand on the rear section over the carb and it's cool unlike the section over the cyl which is of course hot. 572 still has "vent" but 550 m2 no vent although there is a divider between carb and cyl not sure if it's the same material as the 572. 

[Tacotodd]

This is very interesting stuff to me considering that I have a very large amount of intent of getting a 572 or at least a 550mII. I already have a 372 and a Echo pro CS550P but they could ALWAYS be better. After all, if I don't have to worry about getting maximum performance or life by tuning for temp or other air conditions, then what more could I ask for. Oh, I know, how about a 585 or even better, 595!

[Spike60]

Willard, an external AF set up would help. Not so much because the filter would be outside the carb box, but the extra opening for it would allow more cool air in. With that in mind, it give me the idea of venting the top cover by drilling some holes in the rear of it like I've seen some builders do. "Hotsaws101" maybe? Got plenty of top covers lying around so easy for me to try it.

This would mean a little extra attention needed to cleaning the air filter. The sealing of the air filter is the one remaining bug-a-boo on the 562. Especially here in the Northeast when cutting Ash and White Oak that seem to have that tanic acid in the sawdust that makes it sticky. So, now we are back to your external filter idea.

Suppose that we can make all of these concerns go away just by changing 4 parts? A new filter holder, filter, partition wall and top cover would pretty much solve both problems. They are called chassis "enhancments". There's really no need for a complete "M2" redesign. I remain hopeful.

[HolmenTree]

Yes a stick on thick decal like  insulation wall would be a good recall item for these older 5 series saws.

I'm going to try insulating the air box partition wall with some spray on expanding foam and a narrow putty knife, lots of other possibilities. 

All I can say is just adding the extra large vent hole and a little cover trimming it made a HUGE difference in 1 pull starts without the fast idle .

I don't particularly like working in muggy plus 80F temps when I could be doing other projects then working over a hot saw in the sun.
Up  here we get alot more cold then hot......do some fishing or something. 

[HolmenTree]

So after 8 years of hard use the 562's cylinder fins always looked clean and free of obstructions for the cooling air off the flywheel.
Until a closer look this afternoon.
For the first time ever I pulled off the rewind housing to get a better look.also removed the air injection duct....not good  lots of old chips soaked in pine sap in the lower part of the cylinder base and into the air injection air way to the carb's air box.

Cleaned it out nicely and will try the saw out for the next couple of days with temps getting back into the 80's. Should run alot cooler now for the autotune micro processor. 

With over a 1000 hours on this saw and almost zero mechanical issues it's easy to take for granted that everything is OK.
Takes more then just cleaning the air filter daily.

[barbender]

You clean your air filter daily?😁 My poor Stihl ms261, I think I've looked at the filter 2 or 3 times in the 3 years I've had it. It was perfectly clean each time, so🤷‍♂️

[Spike60]

Funny addition to this story: When the extra hole in the top cover was first introduced, I started adding it to every saw that came into the shop. One tree company that has some guys who like to do some basic saw work decided to modify the rest of their saws. Problem is that they went and added the hole on the wrong side of the top cover, putting it on the starter side. They ended up making the problem worse because they now had cooling air blowing out the left side of the saw without ever passing over the cylinder fins.

[Sprinter]

Trying something new (I think). Introducing a bit of cooler air into the carb. Lifted the rear edge of the gray insert in the top cover. Ended up with a 0.25" x 1.25" slot aft of the air cleaner.
I really like the idea of cooler intake air.
Haven't tried it much yet but so far the filter seems okay.
As for aluminum tape, heat shield need an air space between the source and the target to work.

[HolmenTree]

There's that black insert in the top cover over the airbox that already has premade  holes underneath.
Some kind of design feature that never developed or maybe a future development.  ???

[Wood Shed]

HolmenTree,

Been following your mods for your 562xp as I have the same vintage saw.  Just recently found out that Husqvarna upgraded their new 562 models when I visited my local dealer.  Going to add the air vent holes.  I appreciate your experience and willingness to experiment while passing your knowledge.   Be safe in this heat.  I too do not shy away from running my saws when it is warm out.  My uncle always said summer time is when you cut firewood, winter is when you burn firewood. 

[Sprinter]

There's that black insert in the top cover over the airbox that already has premade  holes underneath. Some kind of design feature that never developed or maybe a future development.  

Maybe, they had something similar in mind.
This could easily go much further and adding screening should be no problem if necessary.
I wish I had the software to  see current temp readings. My max. temp. was 47C/117F.

[lxskllr]

"summer time is when you cut firewood, winter is when you burn firewood. "

I can't support that. Winter's when you cut next winter's firewood  :^D

I try not to run saws in hot weather. I do what I have to do, but my preference is to wait til it's cool. I'm happier, and the machines are happier.