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I love this Track Saw!

Started by Brad_bb, November 09, 2019, 10:59:27 PM

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terrifictimbersllc

Mine makes a racket when it starts up then evens out. The sound I initially thought was a bad bearing. It is the riving knife mechanism, it has some play in it possibly intentional. The knife itself is not loose.Doesn't seem to do that when sawing.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

oakiemac

Thanks yellowhammer for the tips. It does seem that cutting slabs I have the binding issues. I use small chisel for tapping into the kerf when it binds. I'll try the plunging action and see how that works.
Mobile Demension sawmill, Bobcat 873 loader, 3 dry kilns and a long "to do" list.

Brad_bb

@oakiemac , remember when plunging to always use the special bracket that comes with the saw, affix it to the track and back your saw into it.  There is a lip on the saw base that will fit under this bracket.  The bracket will keep the saw from kicking back and jumping out of the cut and off the track.  I don't recommend trying to plunge without  the bracket.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

YellowHammer

When plunging in the cut to clear the kerf, use two hands, and be deliberate about it, up and down, up and down a few times and it will clear the bind enough to get through it.  It looks a little like a PacMan chomping.  Most times, wedging a screwdriver into the kerf will keep it from binding.  I stick a couple screwdrivers into the 2" foam for storage.

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

boonesyard

We just got a contract to build a number of large river tables and a river bar top. They'll be made out of large 12/4 ash and burr oak slabs we just pulled out of the kiln. The thing is, I currently have a TS 55, but it won't cut deep enough to straight line rip the heavy slabs. I considered ripping to full depth, flipping them and trying to line up and rip from the other side (nope, not happenin). Decided the contract was substantial enough to just add the 75 to our stable (yipee  8)). 

Considered selling the 55, but it's a very nice saw for breaking down sheet goods and lighter duty work, so probably going to keep it. We were hoping to just use our existing track, we currently have 3 pieces. It will be interesting to see how close the new saw blade lines up with the existing splinter guard that was cut with the 55. I can't imagine that they'll both cut the same so I may have to rethink keeping both of them. Not very interested in buying another track system. 

Anyone have both saws and any experience with this?  
LT50 wide
Riehl Steel Edger
iDRY Standard kiln
BMS 250/BMT 250
JD 4520 w/FEL
Cat TH255 Telehandler
lots of support equipment and not enough time

"I ain't here for a long time, I'm here for a good time"

Brad_bb

The TS55 will cut 1-15/16 deep (I don't own one, but I looked it up).  So if you were just edging, rip it with the TS 55 and then break a piece off. Then take a little block plane and flatten out anything left.  That's one solution.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

terrifictimbersllc

Festool sells replacement splinter guards.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

YellowHammer

The TS75 has a max depth of 2-15/16" when used without the guide rail and 2-3/4 with the guide rail.
It won't cut through 12/4.

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

boonesyard

By the time everything is flattened, they'll be 10/4. Just looked at the track again, replacing the splinter guard will work just fine.

Thanks
LT50 wide
Riehl Steel Edger
iDRY Standard kiln
BMS 250/BMT 250
JD 4520 w/FEL
Cat TH255 Telehandler
lots of support equipment and not enough time

"I ain't here for a long time, I'm here for a good time"

alan gage

How has everyone been doing on blade life? I straight lined 250-300 1x boards and it's getting noticeably harder to push, the cuts aren't as clean, and the occasional burnt spot when it binds. These boards went through the planer first so should have been pretty clean.

Those same boards then went through the Woodmaster setup as a rip saw for final width and those blades still seem to be cutting smooth and fast. They'd already seen a fair about of use before this batch of boards. Of course they've got a lot more power spinning them too.

Think I'll order a second rip blade before I send this one in for sharpening as I'd hate to be without the saw when I need it. Very glad I spent the money on this setup. Much better than rigging up something to straight line on the table saw, which is what I've always done before. Especially since the shop I'm working in is under construction so I don't want a big table saw plugging things up. 1500bf of wood stacked all over is bad enough.

I also had a kickback when plunge cutting like Brad mentioned. I'd been cutting for a couple hours and was getting a bit lax. Thought the saw was back far enough to clear the edge of the board when I dropped in to cut but it wasn't. And I only had one hand on the saw. It jumped up and poked a hole in my track.

Overall I'm tickled pink with the saw. Have joined my long and short tracks to cut lumber over 12'.

Alan
Timberking B-16, a few chainsaws from small to large, and a Bobcat 873 Skidloader.

DR Buck

I am about to make the leap on a track saw.    I just finished straight edging a stack of wide 9 and 10 foot boards on the long bed jointer.   There was enough bow in the boards to require 4 to 5 passes each to get it straight so I couple rip the final widths on the table saw.   This was a killer on time and my arms.  Not to mention how quick it helps fill the dust collector barrel.  :o       Straight edging 4/4 & 5/4 boards is where I would use a track saw more than anywhere else.    

I like the Festool TS75 but not the price, and with the 2-3/4" depth of cut it won't help with slabs unless I start milling them thinner.    I normally slab at 3" thick.    I guess to justify the TS75 I could start milling them at 2-1/2".   ;D     At 2-3/16" depth the Makita will save me money and do everything except large slabs.    

I'm still not decided which way to go.    Common sense say get the Makita.  But, I've not always applied common sense when I should have.   :D    One remaining question is if I get the Festool and go with Makita track will other Festool accessories work, specifically the anti-kickback feature Brad_bb mentioned?   

Maybe I should start a go fund me page and you guys can buy me my new track saw.    :D :D :D :D
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

YellowHammer

I can't say how the Makita works, I'm sure its very good, Makita builds good stuff.

However, I can tell you how well the Festool TS75 works....and if mine died today, I would buy anther one as soon as I could log onto Amazon.  I use it "commercially" and its stupid expensive, but it's stupid good, with lots of power, a built in clutch, a riving knife, track cam adjustment, and requires no clamping of either the board or the fence.  I think I'm on my 4rth or 5th blade now and zero problems.

However its still a hand tool.  Its not as fast as my SLR but it is an amazingly optimized system.  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

jcbrotz

Quote from: DR_Buck on August 09, 2020, 01:13:31 PM
I am about to make the leap on a track saw.    I just finished straight edging a stack of wide 9 and 10 foot boards on the long bed jointer.   There was enough bow in the boards to require 4 to 5 passes each to get it straight so I couple rip the final widths on the table saw.   This was a killer on time and my arms.  Not to mention how quick it helps fill the dust collector barrel.  :o       Straight edging 4/4 & 5/4 boards is where I would use a track saw more than anywhere else.    

I like the Festool TS75 but not the price, and with the 2-3/4" depth of cut it won't help with slabs unless I start milling them thinner.    I normally slab at 3" thick.    I guess to justify the TS75 I could start milling them at 2-1/2".   ;D     At 2-3/16" depth the Makita will save me money and do everything except large slabs.    

I'm still not decided which way to go.    Common sense say get the Makita.  But, I've not always applied common sense when I should have.   :D    One remaining question is if I get the Festool and go with Makita track will other Festool accessories work, specifically the anti-kickback feature Brad_bb mentioned?  

Maybe I should start a go fund me page and you guys can buy me my new track saw.    :D :D :D
I've had a ts75 for probably 10 years, never ran a Makita but will say its a tough pill to swallow at first but you will not regret spending the money.
2004 woodmizer lt40hd 33hp kubota, Cat 262B skidsteer and way to many tractors to list. www.Brotzmanswoodworks.com and www.Brotzmanscenturyfarm.com

Walnut Beast


WDH

Trust me, you will need that extra depth of cut with the Festool.  Trust me. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

scsmith42

Quote from: DR_Buck on August 09, 2020, 01:13:31 PM
I am about to make the leap on a track saw.    I just finished straight edging a stack of wide 9 and 10 foot boards on the long bed jointer.   There was enough bow in the boards to require 4 to 5 passes each to get it straight so I couple rip the final widths on the table saw.   This was a killer on time and my arms.  Not to mention how quick it helps fill the dust collector barrel.  :o       Straight edging 4/4 & 5/4 boards is where I would use a track saw more than anywhere else.    

I like the Festool TS75 but not the price, and with the 2-3/4" depth of cut it won't help with slabs unless I start milling them thinner.    I normally slab at 3" thick. 

Maybe I should start a go fund me page and you guys can buy me my new track saw.    :D :D :D :D
Won't your green milled 3" slabs shrink down to 2-3/4" as they dry?
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

alan gage

I was on the same fence as you are. Makita or Festool 75? I went with the Festool and haven't regretted it one bit. If I recall it not only has a deeper depth of cut but also has a more powerful motor. I've been surprised how hard it's had to work ripping some of the thick hardwoods. Made me glad I had the big dog.

I did get the Makita track with mine, all three lengths. Never used the anti-kickback attachment but assume it works with the Makita track.

Get the ripping blade.

Alan
Timberking B-16, a few chainsaws from small to large, and a Bobcat 873 Skidloader.

Walnut Beast

I might add resale. Festool has a like Cult/Junkie following. If you where to use both of them and turn around and sell. The Festool you would get almost all your money back. The others not so. 

alan gage

Quote from: Walnut Beast on August 10, 2020, 03:52:50 PM
I might add resale. Festool has a like Cult/Junkie following. If you where to use both of them and turn around and sell. The Festool you would get almost all your money back. The others not so.
That's like a Catch-22.
Buy the Festool track saw so you can resell it for more money.
But if you buy the Festool track saw you'll never sell it.
:)
Alan
Timberking B-16, a few chainsaws from small to large, and a Bobcat 873 Skidloader.

DR Buck

I went out in the shop again this morning to start milling the pieces for the craftsman style door and window casing I am making  for our remodel.    After staring at the next stack of 10 foot 4/4 x 12" boards that need edging on one side to make them useful I came back in the house and made the leap.     smiley_bounce

I ordered the Festool TS75 package kit with the 75" track,    Then I went on Amazon (which didn't have the saw package with track) and ordered a 55" track and track connectors.    I may consider another 75" track later to give me the ability to saw 12 foot stuff.

FYI -  Apparently Festool has a firm control on pricing as everywhere I looked, prices were exactly the same. 
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

Walnut Beast

Like everyone said. YOU WILL BE HAPPY.

YellowHammer

As others have said, get the ripping blade and keep the stock combination blade as a spare.  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

WDH

I just ordered the 12 tooth panther ripping blade.  Pecan is still a smiley_devil
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

DR Buck

Quote from: WDH on August 11, 2020, 07:09:09 AM
I just ordered the 12 tooth panther ripping blade.  Pecan is still a smiley_devil.
The 12 tooth blade is for the TS55 track saw.    Thought you had the TS75?  
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

WDH

Uh oh!  Thanks for the heads up. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

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