iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Adding dripper

Started by JoshNZ, August 29, 2020, 06:06:01 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

JoshNZ

I want to install a dripper or blade lube system on my mill. I'm planning to weld up an aluminium tank out of chequer plate and mount it somewhere high out of the way, no trouble with that end of things.

I was wondering what you guys suggest down at the business end, is a gravity fed dripper landing on top of the band in front of the first guide adequate, or will I really benefit from some kind of pump with a nozzle spraying both sides of the band?

trimguy

What kind of lube do you plan on using ? Water/soap or diesel/ oil ?

JoshNZ

I've been using diesel in a spray bottle which works amazingly well, a small squirt on top of the blade a few times per minute maybe.

But I'm open to whatever, water/soap/diesel/detergent. I imagine I'll play around once I get something installed.

The outside of my band doesn't seem to get clogged at all, I've only sprayed diesel on top and seen great results so I suppose I'm asking if a nozzle on top with a valve is adequate, or if a double sided spray application is that much better again and worthwhile.

btulloh

A few people have used a wick and wiper system with diesel and it was very effective. 

If you go with a gravity system, put the metering valve down near the bottom. One thing I don't like about gravity is that the rate changes as the  level in the tank changes. That's what happens with mine and I just have to adjust the flow as the level drops. Not too difficult but just another thing to do.  Maybe a pressurized tank would be the best of both worlds?? Better than a direct pumped spray? I don't know.  say_what

Most of the commercial systems just treat the top surface of the blade, which seems to be confirmed by your experience. 
HM126

trimguy

On my homemade mill, I also used a squirt bottle with diesel and bar oil mix. My LT 40 has a water jug with soap. I don't have enough time on it to decide which I like better. Somebody had a felt wiper for the diesel lube ,which I think is a good idea.

JoshNZ

I could put a little nap sack pump on the tank and pressurize the whole lot maybe. Do commercial units drip or an atomised fan?

I've read about the wick idea, couple of things I don't like about it is wick maintenance, and not being able to see confirmation of flow, or rate.

Magicman

The pump's power is controlled by a circuit board/rheostat regulating the frequency of the pulses.  The pump's output feeds the nozzle.  One nozzle on top of the blade is sufficient.
98 Wood-Mizer LT40 SuperHydraulic    WM Million BF Club

Two: First Place Wood-Mizer Personal Best Awards
The First: Wood-Mizer People's Choice Award

It's Weird being the same age as Old People

Never allow your Need to make money
To exceed your Desire to provide Quality Service

Woodpecker52

This is how the drip tube is located on my mill, I have one for soap/water mix and another small tank and line for diesel.  I usually just use diesel when cutting pine. Just an old lawnmower tank for diesel.

 

Woodmizer LT-15, Ross Pony #1 planner, Ford 2600 tractor, Stihl chainsaws, Kubota rtv900 Kubota L3830F tractor

JoshNZ

I could set that up but there must be an easier way. What about tapping into the impulse line. Put a check valve at the tank and then have a tap down at the nozzle.

Does it want a big wet drip every few seconds or a mist?

Cool woodpecker thanks for the pic

thecfarm

I use a drip on my mill. It came with it. Just a drip every few seconds and I mean a drip too every few seconds. Don't take much. I use half diesel and half bar and chain oil. I have two valves on mine, one to shut it off when I don't need it and one to adjust the drip.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

barbender

A drip/wick system is something on my list, that I haven't gotten around to. One method of delivery for the small amount needed is a 12v automotive wiper fluid pump. Just a momentary switch to give a little shot would work well.
Too many irons in the fire

JoshNZ

Does the flow rate need to be adjusted for different species of wood or do you just set and forget usually?

Barbender I considered that but I think constant drip is probably more efficient than a heavy squirt. And if I can stay away from electronics I will

caveman

I run just enough to keep the blade clean.  The amount varies with different species and even between different logs of the same species depending on their size and the amount of sap/pitch they produce.  We typically use cotton picker spindle lube (John Deere) or diesel.
Caveman

kelLOGg

I have two top-bottom wipers and it is great at keeping the band body clean but the teeth tear away at the felt wipers preventing the diesel from "brushing" the teeth. I think a top and bottom spray system would be best.
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Old Greenhorn

My small mill uses wiper blocks for blade guides. I believe this flattens out the water on top of the blade and forces it around on both sides. It hasn't been an issue (that I know of yet) using the stock drip system. I generally run a steady light flow most of the time but this varies by species. I use rain water for lube, mix in some washer fluid in the fall then go to mostly washer fluid in the winter or RV anitfreeze if that is cheaper.
 I use rain water because it is free, available right at the mill, and I can run as much as I want. Otherwise I have filled some gallon milk jugs and carried them to the mill (current system up until yesterday), but that is wasted steps. I am building a water system right at the corner of the mill for 4 purposes: 1) to supply unlimited blade lube and easy to fill the tank directly, 2) hose off the mill bed at the end of the day to keep it clean, 3) to hose off the logs of dirt and junk before milling, and 4) to water the garden, which is just on the other side of the mill. The collection system is nearly done, the pumping system is nearly done and now I just need to work on a better storage system and plumb it all together.
 If you are building your own tank, I suggest an easy to see sight glass. You don't want to run out of lube in the middle of the cut. Also, consider an easy way to clean out the tank because little stuff can accumulate and clog a small drip feed hole pretty easily.
 Good luck.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way.  NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

tacks Y

I copied Mr kelLoGg but held felt away from teeth. The top and bottom felt meet behind the blade to wick diesel. Works real well and have not had to change felt after 3-4 blade changes so far. I leave a drip on and would not run with out fuel. 

kelLOGg

Tacks Y,
I guess my method has evolved to yours because the teeth eat the felt way.
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

BtoVin83

I use plain water and run the supply from the tank then through a ball shut off valve but I have not cut anything yet that caused any buildup. i don't plan on adding a solenoid as it just complicates things. The ball valve is right there  and easy to turn on or off.

KenMac

My Cook's AC 36 came with their felt wipe system, as do all Cook's mills. After just under 200 hours I have used less that 5 gallons of diesel fuel and have no issues with pitch build-up. Occasionally the slots in the drive wheel cover will clog if sawing pine, but the blade and wheels are clean. I'm convinced this is the best system for blade lube.
Note: I have forgotten to turn the drippers off a couple of times and had fuel all over the drag back table. My usage includes these wasteful occurrences.YMMV
Cook's AC3667t, Cat Claw sharpener, Dual tooth setter, and Band Roller, Kubota B26 TLB, Takeuchi TB260C

JoshNZ

Well this is what I came up with... Won't get carried away with mounts down at the blade end just yet but it won't be far away. I put it through a 1.1m wide redwood today and got a dead flat cut. The dripper plus the new guides are going well.

I was delighted with how consistent I could get it dripping in my shed but it's another story when you've got a band doing 5500fpm a quarter inch from the nozzle. Not so much a drip as a sideways spit by that point.

Thanks again for the responses.



 

 

thecfarm

I was going to say, yep, that's how mine is until I saw the "can". Beats my red plastic red can. 
I would put another valve on there. One to turn it off and one to adjust the drip.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

JoshNZ

I have to use my tools to justify buying them xD. I even turned the filler neck and cap. Because it was after 5 and the shops were closed when I needed it...

I do have a second valve, there's two in a row stacked on top of each other. Slightly offset so the handles don't interfere. I'll probably swap the control one for a needle valve.

Thank You Sponsors!