inserted tooth saws

oakiemac · July 04, 2005, 06:13:52 PM

If you would like I can get you the part number of the teeth that I buy from Menominee Saw for my MD. I quit buying teeth from MD because Menominee saw is cheaper and I like dealing with them a little better.
You can buy the shank tool to remove the teeth from MD- I don't know how much it costs.

Sawyerfortyish · July 04, 2005, 06:15:00 PM

Jeff I thought Simonds was the only company that was left to make inserted teeth for saws. I was buying IKS but they are all done. Does menominee make teeth for head saws or just resell another brand?.

Jeff · July 04, 2005, 06:32:00 PM

They simply are resellers for Simonds.

woodhaven · July 04, 2005, 07:39:48 PM

My teeth are getting to the point of being changed. I have read in the past that replacing every other tooth will cut my horse power needed way down. Is this true, it makes sense? Im almost ready to try my new motor which is 3 times more horse power than the old 126 hp. Just thought I would experiment along the way.

Jeff · July 04, 2005, 08:06:00 PM

If you blank out every other tooth it can cut the H.P. needed but it also will drop your feed rate dramatically. Replacing only half of your dull teeth will only decrease the horsepower needed versus not replacing any. Personally, I can't imagine trying to saw with anything other then saw teeth in optimum condition, and what I mean by that is, making the ones your are using the best that they can be.

woodhaven · July 04, 2005, 08:30:25 PM

Jeff"
So you are saying don't waste my time? Use my old teeth a little longer until I get the new motor finished and then replace all the teeth when I change over to the new motor?

DanG · July 04, 2005, 09:24:33 PM

Richard, if I get a vote here, I'd like to see you go ahead and play around with it a bit, just to gain the knowledge. :P You could time it through a given cut just like it is, then pop out half the teeth and time it again. Then put in half of the new teeth, time it, then a full set of new ones and time it once more. Then you would see, and hopefully report back, just what you found to be the optimum setup.

I can't see any advantage to waiting for the new engine if your teeth need replacing now.

Furby · July 04, 2005, 09:31:50 PM

DanG, that's a DanG good idea!

Paul_H · July 04, 2005, 09:40:51 PM

Oakie,

I'd sure like the Part # for the MD teeth through Menominee if you have it handy.

karl · July 04, 2005, 10:04:23 PM

I requested info on shanks and bits from Menominee, but sure wouldn't mind knowing the numbers too!

More info is better (most times) ;)

Anybody know what brand MD sells- the ones I bought came in a "plain brown wrapper". They work fine- just don't cut clamp handles well at all. :

Mental note to self- push down clamp handle on long log when sawing one long, one short log on deck at same time. :-[

Buzz-sawyer · July 04, 2005, 11:39:22 PM

Are you guys refering to type B inserts?
They are all the same weather in a big saw, edger..whatever.....the difference is i nwhat type of teeth you get...........standall, carbide, chrome................know what I mean?

Woodhaven..

I have plenty of teeth to replace mine, but use the older set every other.........As you described Richard.
An old sawyer got me onto this years ago...Im sawing Almost all hardwoods, and It has worked well for me so far.

the worn teeth work well to remove the dust while the new ones cut like heck.............
BUT I am just a backwoods sawyer...;)

Jeff · July 05, 2005, 12:43:56 AM

A worn tooth is doing more then removing dust. Its trying to cut. By using them you sacrafice somewhere in the equation. Either in speed of cut, or worse, the quality. Most of the time I had my saw cutting as smooth as most bandmills I have seen. The secret to that is tooth care. Making sure each one is the same as the next.

If the sacrafice is something you as the sawyer are cool with, then hey, great. With me, anything but flat out was not an option. Buzz, I'm not trying to put down a "backwoods sawyer' as you indiacte. They does what they gotta do.

mometal77 · July 05, 2005, 06:48:00 AM

Oakie,
There is a few threads on hp to each tooth found when I was looking. Mobile dimension teeth. I believe the change out tool is around 13.50 from mobile I will probably just make my own. After viewing the free price lists and video they sent me in the mail. I can make/repair about anything except the grooved gears that go up and down the track over a 10ft track is $1050. Cheaper to build another and part out the old I think. The 30 feet of track I acquired logs where rolled into it by kids working for the guy a few yrs back and bent up to 3/4 of an inch along with a few other things. For what I bought the mill and I think it was a good buy. I have the price lists I could send you. Sure would be nice for part numbers to Menominee saw. Also are all mobile dimension teeth the same for the blades?
Bob

oakiemac · July 05, 2005, 08:53:54 AM

Karl-I know what you mean! I have cut my DanG log clamps more then once.

The part number I was refering to is really just a Simonds number. The teeth are steel not stelite like what MD sells. But they are about $1.15/tooth vs the $3.45/tooth that MD wants. I also like them better. They don't shatter or chip nearly as much as the stellite tooth. If I hit metal with the stellite, it is pretty much finished but with the steel tooth I can almost always reuse after sharpening.
I know sawmill john and MD recommend the stellite because they say it needs sharpening less often, but I have been using the steel for about 5 months now and I have not seen a dramatic difference in sharpening frequency. I would be interested in if any of you buy these teeth what you think of them. I say they are well worth it.
The teeth are: 3 8/9 9/32 long then part number 10256200. Cost about $115 for a box of 100 bits. You can get Menominee Saw's number from the left side of your screen since they are a sponsor.

woodhaven · July 05, 2005, 10:36:03 AM

BUT I am just a backwoods sawyer...

NAAH. Your just bring food to the table.

DanG · July 05, 2005, 12:37:02 PM

Bob, the teeth on the edgers are a different size than the main saw. The main uses 5/16" and the edgers use 1/4". Also, the main is thicker. I think it is 8 guage and the edgers are 10 guage, but don't quote me on that part. ;) :D The teeth are exactly the same style, though, and you have to look close to tell the difference.

Buzz-sawyer · July 05, 2005, 01:53:21 PM

JeffB
I just want to clarify.......

"Buzz, I'm not trying to put down a "backwoods sawyer' as you indiacte"

I said BUT...meaning I am not as experienced as many sawyers here

.....just a a small fry who DOESNT know all the ins and outs

and that my opinion is very perocial, limited and and local.
I was not in any way infering that you dislike or put down anyone.......you got too big a heart for that ;)
Surely you know me better than that? ;)

your opiion and experience DWARFS mine.... and I appreciate it ...if anything I feel sheepish voicing a different take than you being you have run a saw around quite a few times

Jeff · July 05, 2005, 04:48:09 PM

Buzz my perception is way off right now. I may be going back to the hospital tonight, but a call down there says they are swamped and dont know when they can give me an answer from the dr. I have had otitis Externa, "swimmers ear" in both ears all weekend. Real bad pain, but tonight, the pain is almost gone but in the last 24 hours I have lost at least 50% of my hearing. Its as if I had in a pair of very good ear plugs, but Tammy says my ears look clear.

Fla._Deadheader · July 05, 2005, 05:12:32 PM

I TOLD ya to use ALCOHOL. That's what we use. It will absorb the water and end the infection.

Dilute it a little. We use 70% and mix it around 60-40 to water.

I got water deep in my ear Sunday afternoon, in the shower. This morning, I had some real discomfort in my upper jaw area. Got the Alcohol, and dripped a few drops in. Made a small paper towel "worm" and absorbed the extra out. NOW, I have that dreaded Tinnitus back, but, I can hear and the discomfort is gone.

KIDS. :

:

;D :D :D

Ron Wenrich · July 05, 2005, 05:15:24 PM

You can get bit kerfs from 7/32 to 3/8 in Simond bits. I run both a B pattern and an F pattern saw. The teeth for those saws are all the same, its the shanks that are different.

For inserted bits, look at the shank and there will be either a number or a letter on them. B, F, & D style shanks all use the same bit.

I used to run chrome bits. I went back to steel after hitting too much trash. I never thought that the carbide would be cost effective. You can buy a lot more steel than you can the carbide.

Buzz

I've often wondered if anyone did that on a big headsaw. I always noticed that short teeth don't stay sharp for very long. So, I figured you would be running with half of the teeth duller than the other half.

As for taking away sawdust, I always figured you had to make dust to take it away. A shorter tooth is just there for the ride, not really doing any work.

There is nothing like running with a fresh set of teeth, except with a brand new saw. 8)

Buzz-sawyer · July 05, 2005, 05:54:24 PM

Hi Ron
I think you are right that the short teeth are doing 0 cutting they never come close to the wood..........because they are VERY short....
I know a little dust spill out of the gullet and so on and , it seems the extr gullets and spaces on the non cutting teeth help out catch it out.
I like the chrome very much they seem to stay sharp a good bit longer.but dont seem to like the metal any too much.
I have found that my feed rate (about a foot a second) is good...and the only real differnce in my limited experience is , I spend less on teeth