Saw Runs With Stop Switch Off

[Guydreads]

Basically, the title is pretty self explanatory. This only happens occasionally, maybe once every 20-30 times I run it, maybe even fewer. Just want to know if there is something to be done, or if this is normal. First off, it's a J'red 2071 Turbo with a fresh build and new rings, somewhat broken in. I have tested the whole electrical system thoroughly and it the stop switch seems to work perfectly, because when I check the spark plug and test it off and on, the spark works accordingly. I also tested it for current, and it seems fine. (Let's electricity to the ground when off, doesn't when on). So, is it basically trying to be a big brother diesel? Or is it something to do with the fresh build? Or is it normal for a saw this size? Thanks.

[Real1shepherd]

Just sounds like a bad switch. Follow it back to the coil and see if the switch wire is rubbing at all and going to ground. That's all the switch does....is jump the coil to ground.

I don't see how it has anything to do with your build....you coil is intermittently shorting to ground. Either the switch or the wire to the coil.

Kevin

[Hilltop366]

Does it run like normal? Shorts or grounding would cause it to sputter or stall, a poor connection at either end or a break in the kill wire will prevent it from grounding and shutting off.

I have a old Dolmar that does not always shut off with the switch, it is a toggle switch so if I press a bit harder it will usually work if not the choke will ;D. I don't use the saw much anymore.

[barbender]

That family of saws is notorious for the ignition switch going bad. I've replaced 2 or 3 on my saw. The choke works just fine for a shut off😁

[lxskllr]

A switch is a pretty simple mechanism. Without knowing anything about that particular saw, I'd say it has crud built up inside, or possibly it's built in a way that'll fail intermittently when you use it. If it were failing all the time, I'd take it apart and have a look. For as little as it's failing you, barbender's choke suggestion sounds fine to me. I'd be afraid of turning a rare issue into a constant issue by playing with it at this point.

[Old Greenhorn]

I had the same problem on my 372 clone, so I put a OEM switch in it. I think it is the same switch as yours. The problem started again after a few hours use. Right now I can't start the saw and I am pretty sure it is that switch. I put it aside and grabbed another saw and haven't dove into it yet. The good news, if it the same switch, is that it pries right out of the slot, you don't even have to open the covers. I opened the first one up and fixed it, it's just a poor design. As I was cycle testing it on the bench it failed again. Now the replacement has failed. I had bought a few of them, maybe I'll just stick another one in. It's faster than changing a spark plug.

[Spike60]

Pretty straight forward problem here. Either the switch, (likely), or the blue wire between the switch and the coil. There's the short black wire but that's a rare item to fail.

[Tacotodd]

@Spike60 I need to check mine because it's started to act up as well. But seeing as I don't have much call to use it (and I jump at every chance to do so) I'll start by checking out the mechanical integrity of my blue wire and see how that goes. But since that switch is affordable in price (suggest OE or AM 🧐) I don't think that I'll have much monetary problems with just replacing it. But yes, I've always got that choke option. Rather not, but always works.

BTW, ALL of my local saw dealers around here charge full list, so keep that bit of information in mind when you respond please :embarassed:

[Spike60]

I charge list on parts as well Todd. It's a $10 switch

[Tacotodd]

Thanks Bob. Just needed to know what to expect.