Chainsaw mill to fit oversized logs on mill?

[efiles123]

I'm going to be getting several redwood logs that measure up to 5-6 feet in diameter. The Norwood bandsaw mill I use can only take up to about 34" which is about half the size of these logs. I'm trying to figure out how the successfully mill these logs without creating a huge mess and be a waste of time. I'm thinking about purchasing a chainsaw mill to quarter the logs in order to fit on the mill. Only problem is the shape will be odd and the amount of work to quarter them may be endless. Anyone have any good ideas?

[sawguy21]

That is a difficult decision. You are going to need a chainsaw mill and enough power to run a 36" bar. Will you get enough use out of it to justify a large purchase?

[Nealm66]

 

 I have an 880 with a canon 72" bar and an Alaskan 6' mill and I can make some dang nice cants and boards. This isn't something I would recommend for a first time chainsaw mill attempt but if you're already committed to those size logs, well, you're in for some hard work and learning.  I can recommend some things that will help like using metal studs instead of a ladder etc. I will say I use a chisel bit grinder and that's not something I can teach over the internet. A lot of the techniques I've seen on the internet don't really work that great real world. Here's my 6' mill cutting up some fairly large Doug fir

[efiles123]

That is a difficult decision. You are going to need a chainsaw mill and enough power to run a 36" bar. Will you get enough use out of it to justify a large purchase?

Definetly getting plenty of timber, about an 80 foot tall tree that slowly tapers and has no branches 2/3 of the way up. It's the trouble that is making me wonder the most.

[efiles123]

 I have an 880 with a canon 72" bar and an Alaskan 6' mill and I can make some dang nice cants and boards. This isn't something I would recommend for a first time chainsaw mill attempt but if you're already committed to those size logs, well, you're in for some hard work and learning.  I can recommend some things that will help like using metal studs instead of a ladder etc. I will say I use a chisel bit grinder and that's not something I can teach over the internet. A lot of the techniques I've seen on the internet don't really work that great real world. Here's my 6' mill cutting up some fairly large Doug fir

That setup looks very sharp! What is the brand/model? 
I'm starting to wonder if I could possibly mill these huge logs into beams with the chainsaw mill. This would enable me to handle and load into pickup and finalize at the mill.

[beenthere]

And there was a sawing of a 6-7' dia. redwood log in Madison, WI back in 2007. Several Forestry Forum members were there, and Jeff even made a bed for Mr. Truck from one of the slabs.




 



 

[Don P]

We've taken the CSM over to break big logs down for other guys to saw. One was a large poplar butt log behind a church that we had to slab into 3 large pieces to lighten up enough to get out of there. If its just an occasional need it might be worth seeing if someone nearby has a rig.

[terrifictimbersllc]

Logboy here on the forum used a dedicated Lucas slabber to break down big logs for others' bandmilling. Vertical depth of cut limitations would prevent quartering large logs.  As far as being quick to break down logs, freehand chainsawing like Customsawyers horizontal halving with 661/42" bar, stands out for least complicated in terms of equipment.  But that wont do 5-6 ft logs.

I have used an MS880 with 59" bar to cut large logs in half.  I am not able to even try that horizontally.  However by making log length slightly under 10 ft, with this setup, I have been able to make two vertical cuts one from each end that meet in the middle. This can be done without a lot of physical exertion and it keeps ones feet on the ground, you dont have to crawl on top of a log that is going to fall apart.  After the log is cut in half,  it is not hard to complete the quartering.  

Not sure what hydraulics you have but having a machine that can lift the quarters greatly assists sawing them with a bandsaw.  And sawing quartered wood goes hand in hand with producing quartersawn/vertical grain lumber which should be attractive in redwood.

[Patrick NC]

I recently had a 48" red oak log that I quartered freehand with my husqvarna 372 30" bar. Had a little waste, but overall I was satisfied with the results.  Started by cutting a little over halfway through alone the top and then turned the log 90° with my tractor and repeat.  I used some wooden wedges to keep the first cut from closing up as I was making the second.  After I removed the first quarter,  I rolled the log over onto a smaller log to stabilize for the 3rd cut. Again using wedges to keep the kerf open.  4th cut was made with that half on 4x4 cribbing.  Keep your saw sharp and take a few breaks for yourself and the saw. 

[moodnacreek]

As much as I hate chain sawing big logs the long way I think that redwood might not be so bad. That wood makes white pine look hard. Might plug up with curls though.

[efiles123]

As much as I hate chain sawing big logs the long way I think that redwood might not be so bad. That wood makes white pine look hard. Might plug up with curls though.

How well do the saws hold up when using for endless amounts of horizontal cuts? Do you ever have to stop in the middle of a cut to sharpen the chain?

[Patrick NC]

That red oak was 8' long and I had to sharpen 3 times before I got done. 

[customsawyer]

The biggest I ever did was 63" on the butt end. At 55 ft long the top was still 49" dia. It was Southern red oak. I cut it into two 27 ft. logs and then split it. Don't remember how long it took but it wasn't to bad.

[barbender]

Dang, that's quite a stick!

[YellowHammer]

I'd split it using Customsawyer's free hand, walk along technique, I've done big oaks and sycamores,  a redwood should cut real easy and nice like butter, I would imagine.  I use a 661 and a 54" Forester bar, and skip chain.  It's pretty easy once you get the hand of it, it's safe, and you can stop anytime.  There is no crawling on top or walking along a log like circus act, it a good technique for old, brittle people like me.    

You shouldn't have to sharpen the chain during the cut unless you hit something, but may have to fill up the fuel talk, maybe not.  No big deal, turn the saw off, fill it up, and get back to it, you don't even have to pull it out of the log.  

Splitting a big redwood would be fun, I'd enjoy that one.

[OlJarhead]

Bar depth needs to be half the diameter plus 6 to 8 inches for the slabber so for a 60 inch diameter log I'd want a min 36" bar.

The bigger the saw the better so for softwood a Husky 572xp or similar will be ok.  I've used my to quarter maple and it does the job

so get at least two chains.  I'm using 25 degree skip tooth chains and they work well.

[Brad_bb]

As I think Yellowhammer said, a chainsaw mill will not work to cut through the middle of such a log.  They only have a certain amount of depth of cut between the bars that reference the ladder or previous cut and the chainsaw bar.  Probably 8-12 inches.  Plus chainsaw milling is not all that fun.  You probably have to free hand cut it as others have said.  That's not fun either, but sometimes necessary.  At least it's softwood!  A ripping chain might help.  I have one, but usually too lazy to change them out.  Actually the last couple I had to bibby, I didn't even remember I had a rip chain.  Might have made it easier.  Bibby is forestry forum coined term for whittling a large log down with a chainsaw to a size that will fit on your mill.  Correct me if I'm wrong fellas.

[YellowHammer]

   

[Don P]

Pretty much. We can make up to 13" thick cants with the csm. Plan your cuts from the center out. If the log is that size typically there are 3 slabs to take home. First an edging cut on the ladder or scaffold plank, generally scrap. Then a up to 13" slab. Next a heart centered up to 13", then another up to 13" to remove the outer jacket.

[customsawyer]

In my experience you don't want a ripping chain for the freehand ripping. I have tried it and it actually cuts slower then the skip tooth chain I run on the long bars. It might be a little smother of a cut for chainsaw milling but I've never used one of those.

[teakwood]

make a straight line on top of the log and stand on the log and freehand the log with a chainsaw until the center. than turn log 90 degrees and repeat. there you have the first quarter. then do the rest. you will get good and accurate after a few logs. i have done lots like this 

[DMcCoy]

Like YH said.  Just finished up freehand quartering some western red cedar butt logs with sweep.  You really don't waste that much.  I use chisel skip chain at standard 35 degree.  Makes a lot of stringy chips that plug up the saw.  32" bar stihl 038.

 


 

[OlJarhead]

You guys are forgetting the optiions....slabbers!  You can cut the log into quarters and cut very deep ;)

In this one the log isn't too big at 43" in diameter.  I quartered it up and when the snow melts and the sun comes out I'll mill it on the LT40
Big Old Maple vs Husky 572xp #shorts #chainsaw #husqvarna - YouTube


In this one the log was a whopping 56" at the crotch end and 43" at the small end.  Quartered it up and milled it on the LT40.
Monstrous Maple vs Husqvarna 572xp #shorts #husqvarna #lumber #sawmill - YouTube

I'm using the Granberg Slabber Attachment and my Husqvarna 572xp with a 28" bar and 25 degree skip chain in the first video but was using standard came with the saw chain in the 2nd.....yes the skip tooth was much faster!

[customsawyer]

I have a Lucas dedicated slabber. I think it has a max depth of cut at about 16".  This is why I just freehand split the ones I want to quarter saw. I then set each half up on the LT70 just like you would the top or bottom third of a log when doing the reverse roll quartersawed technique. This will let you get max quartersawed lumber. Where the chainsaw split the log will be edged off any way so you aren't losing much. You also don't have to quarter the log as you will start on a the top edge with the split at almost a 45° angle. Take a couple of cuts and start turning it backwards to keep the saw in the high figure wood.
Another reason I just freehand split the big ones that I want to quarter saw is I can normally have it split quicker than I can get it positioned in the Lucas.

[JoshNZ]

I've freehand split a handful of logs, I quite enjoy the opportunity when it comes up. I nick the end of the log at the top and poke a stick in it then go to the other end and drive the bar tip at the stick walking behind it on the log. Only the depth of the tip. Second pass is maybe 12-16" deep and third pass is full depth, working forwards, so that your bar is cutting at the tip only and swings into the kerf behind it. I've found this is the best way to stay straight and not end up wandering or starting new kerfs beside your straight/intended kerf. Semi chisel chains also help prevent this, I've found full chisel is too eager on the edges/too happy to grab new wood on the sides of the kerf. 

Cut yourself a rebate at the top of your cut and slot a bottle jack in there, pump down, it's amazing what you can pry open even if you haven't made it all the way through the log.

This one wasn't so wide but at 9m long it was more of a weight issue.

The best part is getting your quartered pieces to the mill and watching the perfectly quarter sawn boards just pour off it!