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Thoughts on the L200 Pro?

Started by csobel, February 08, 2023, 04:46:35 AM

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csobel

Howdy folks,

Does anyone have any feedback on the Nyle l200 pro? I’m looking at getting my first Kiln set up in anticipation of my mill arriving in 2043  :D… I’ve shared elsewhere but my first task for it will be drying about 6-7k bf of softwoods in 16’ length, a number which is getting higher by the month as I add more log inventory. I have some hardwoods as well, but probably more in 2-3k range. In the future I anticipate doing a mix of soft and hardwoods as well as 5-10 cords a year of mixed firewood. I would like to rent out Kiln space as well once I’ve got a good feel for things.

Nyle was very helpful on the phone — they felt the L200 pro would be better for my situation although the L200M would work just fine as well. I was steered away from L53 as they thought it would be close to useless for all the softwoods I need to do.

It has a hybrid mode where the compressor can function as a heat pump alongside the DH function, and overall a much more sophisticated computer and monitoring functions than the L200M or 53. The pro does look pretty nice, just packs a price punch of double the M is all.

My reservations are 1) filling it to capacity for hardwoods; I’d need to get a pretty big load to justify running it or I imagine the electrical costs would be high per bf. The kiln does require a 100 amp feed, which is doable but obviously a pretty stout line. If I’m not mistaken it seems the regular M is more like 40-50 amps? I worry this will be an expensive Kiln to run based off the feed alone, but I don’t really know what it pencils out to.

Thanks in advance for your wisdom and feedback, it is appreciated as I grope my way into this rodeo!
Woodmizer LT40 wide remote (on order)
WM MP360
Kubota L47 TLB
Mini forklift
Lots of trailers and a big diesel to tow them
Laguna resaw/power feed
Various small machinery, 40hp RPC, 20hp RPC, and so on...

YellowHammer

I don't have a pro, but do have an L200M and love it.  It is a workhorse machine, and it has probes for moisture measurement in each of 4 stacks simultaneously, give an average value and shut off when that value is reached.  Many species of woods will "lock up" and stop giving off moisture and cause the Wb to drop as if the wood appear that it is dry, but is not.  The only way to tell is with a direct measurement, which the L200M does.

Does the Pro have direct measurement moisture probes to measure actual wood moisture content?  I didn't see it mentioned in the literature just now when I went to their website.  I may have missed it.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

K-Guy


The PRO has a combination temp/humidity sensor that is used to calculate the EMC.
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

csobel

Quote from: YellowHammer on February 08, 2023, 08:04:44 AM
I don't have a pro, but do have an L200M and love it. 
YH,
Do you have both an L53 and an L200? Do you find having both is useful if you want to do a smaller batch in the 53? 
I'm considering the idea of building an L200 and a smaller 53 or solar kiln to be able to match loads better...
Thanks!
Woodmizer LT40 wide remote (on order)
WM MP360
Kubota L47 TLB
Mini forklift
Lots of trailers and a big diesel to tow them
Laguna resaw/power feed
Various small machinery, 40hp RPC, 20hp RPC, and so on...

bushhog920

Most of the time when I run electrical if I need more than 30-40 amps I use 2-2-2-4 aluminum. It is direct bury, 100amps , and cheaper than copper that can only carry 1/2 the amperage. I also used it with my l200

YellowHammer

Yes I have both in addition to a solar kiln, and yes, the L53 is my "hotshot" kiln I use as a fast reaction kiln when I need to play through and the big kiln is full.  I think I had one of the first L53's off the line, and just had to replace it a few years ago.  

The only way to truly measure moisture content in a piece of wood is to actually measure moisture content in the piece of wood.  Many species have their odd behaviors and will stall while drying, and stop giving off moisture in the time and drying schedule allowed.  It's not dry, it's just not giving off moisture.  There is a topic right now about some stalled walnut.  

The 200M gives direct moisture content readings of 4 wood stacks and is very reliable.  If you go with the more expensive Pro, invest in some Delhmorst remote moisture measurement probes that have a readout in the control box. 

How do you know when the butterball turkey is done?  When the button pops out.  How do you know when the wood in a kiln is dry? When it reads 8% with a moisture meter. 

I'm sure Stan and I will discuss this at the Project over a beer and chicken.   :D   



YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

K-Guy


Sorry Robert but I have too many commitments here to be able to make it. You'll have to handle it without my heckling you.  ;D
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

YellowHammer

Stan, oh no, that kind of ruins my day.  I was looking forward to seeing you again.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

K-Guy


Me too but we can't find anyone I can start training for my job. No, I'm not saying I'm irreplaceable but the kind of people I need are already working.

Instead, I seem to be getting Walmartians!!
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

JamieK

I have the l200m also. My electricity cost is $.15 per kw. When the kiln is heating up, the cost is $24 per day it usually takes 24 hours to reach 90° in the winter. Once it reaches operating temp, the cost is $16 per day
Wood-Mizer LT70 full line, BMS250, BMT100, Moffet M5,Nyle L200M, Lucas mill model 7 with slabbing attachment and planer attachment, Logosol PH360, 2017 Ford F450 Platinum

trimguy

Jamie, what are you using for heat with those numbers?

JamieK

My only heat source is the heat strip in the l200m and heat generated by the compressor and fans. I forgot to mention that my kiln has 5 fans. I measure my usage with the sense energy monitor 
Wood-Mizer LT70 full line, BMS250, BMT100, Moffet M5,Nyle L200M, Lucas mill model 7 with slabbing attachment and planer attachment, Logosol PH360, 2017 Ford F450 Platinum

trimguy


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