Stihl 201C - Echo2511P

lxskllr · June 05, 2022, 07:41:38 AM

$400 is what I paid for my top handle. I've been wanting to do a muffler mod on mine, but haven't made time for it. I hear it wakes them up pretty good. Excellent results have been gained by porting also, but that's more expensive than I need running it as a non pro.

You definitely need patience running it in big wood. I would say 8" is the sweet spot, but maybe it's 6". You can bury the bar, but you just have to let it work. Mine stays in my truck as my everything saw. Sometimes I need to cut something bigger than practical, and it's there to do it. Quicker than my foldable bowsaw.

DHansen · June 28, 2023, 12:06:51 PM

Another year has past and the 2511P continues to perform without issue. Nice saw, but if the wood gets to 6", the 550 xp or 45 is a better choice and gets the job done faster and more enjoyable for the operator. Just my opinion and update. Starts great always, never stalls out. Hard working little 25cc saw.

DHansen · July 22, 2023, 08:23:04 PM

I have a bit of information to add about the 2511P. So today I was cutting with the 2511P and I decided to tighten the chain just a little. As I was loosening the bar nut I noticed the nut was not spinning off, but the stud was threading out and pushing the guide plate and clutch cover with it. It had only come out about 1/4" before I saw what was happening. I must have tightened the bar nut too tight. So, I threaded it back in and tried again. No luck. Did not look cross threaded, so I took a battery powered impact wrench and socket to spin the nut off and that worked. I removed the spring clip holding the captured bar nut and with clutch cover removed I spun the nut on and off the stud with my fingers. No binding, no thread damage. The stud threads into the plastic case and I could see thread lock compound on the threads of the stud. So, I double nutted the stud and threaded it back into position. Reassembled and checked operation. This will be one saw I will use more care in not tightening the bar nuts too tight. I did not know thread lock compound would work on steel to plastic. Is this a special compound?

DHansen · July 22, 2023, 08:39:16 PM

Well, a quick Google search and I found Plastic to plastic and plastic to metal lock tight. The Old School lock tight is not recommended as it will cause damage to the plastic and make the plastic brittle. Will result is small cracks in the plastic.

DHansen · January 20, 2024, 09:38:39 PM

Well I took the 2511P and some others to Madison Wisconsin. To help my son get a fallen tree off his house. No house damage. My son was using the 2511P and my 550XP. After a day of clean up he asked if he could keep the 2511P. It is such a lite weight and very well built saw he felt it would come in handy. So, I left him that saw. Now I will have to think about another one or a replacement.

realzed · January 20, 2024, 11:13:15 PM

Older thread - at least the past of it where you are shown working on cutting a neighbour's tree using a towable lift to get up and into the branches..
Can you share some info regarding the lift itself as to what make and/or model the one as pictured was and how high you can comfortably go with it and at the top reach - how much weight can it support at that extreme - and finally if it gets touchy or iffy if you try and reach or span out from a vertical stand point - (as in how far off straight up can you go before it loses ability to be usable or stable to allow supporting much weight in the bucket etc..?
I've got a few trees dying in my yard at camp - most accessible from my lawn (field bed under) and wondering if something like this might work for me to help get them down.. verses a big sized one that I'm pretty sure would not be manageable for the weight and size of that type or version..
Any info is much appreciated! Randy

DHansen · January 21, 2024, 08:16:59 AM

Randy, Haulotte model 4527A, this model is 51' height and 27' horizontal outreach. When I need the lifts, I have always just rented them. Here are the pros and cons I can share. They have level and tip sensors so you can't go so far as to tip the unit. I have used other brands of them at over 80 feet of vertical. It is a feeling you have to get use to or overcome. The wind will blow the bucket and arm, and the tree will sway. if is windy. This movement takes time to adjust your mind to accept. The higher up you go the more movement there is. The hydraulic extension arms are robust, can be used to level or lift the base off the ground if needed. Ground needs to be solid or plated will be needed. Moving the unit from side to side of the tree is necessary. Planning your attack will save wasted time repositioning the lift. You can't just drop the branches and let them hit the unit. The control in the bucket allows you to move in and out of the tree to position yourself in a safe area. Platform makes it easy to have all your tools in the bucket with you. Never tie anything between the tree and the bucket. Makes it easy to tie to the tree and drop the lines down for the groundies. When needed they are extremely handy. I'll see if I have photos showing the angle you can achieve with the arm. But it is very impressive.

realzed · January 21, 2024, 11:14:02 AM

Thanks for the comments - I've considered renting a larger unit for the extra capacity and reach but they all come with so much extra weight and size obviously that they aren't at all practical for a couple of the trees and access to them that I presently have.
One of the types you show and describe would probably get me to areas where I could shave down the limbs at least enough to keep from having to dodge a lot of broken branches falling around the property and risking someone eventually getting clobbered by one at some point.
These are Birch and Poplar trees and they rot from the top down and often without warning just have fairly large chunks fall off..
Can or could a lift such as the one you pictured be moved around with a good sized ATV for short distances with a trailer hitch set up or is it too heavy overall to consider something like that to get it into a spot where a vehicle (truck) would be needed in your estimation?

DHansen · January 21, 2024, 11:57:33 AM

I have two 6x6 Polaris Rangers. On flat ground and in low range yes. But that can cause overheating of the drive belt if it starts slipping. Slipping as in the drive belt slipping on the torque converter. Also I always un-hook the truck from the lift when lift is in use. One is a 6x6 side by side, the other is a 6x6 upright. The side by side can handle more weight and more stable.

realzed · January 21, 2024, 12:11:09 PM

Thanks again for the comments and details!
I will most certainly see what may be available come Spring locally to me in this line of lift and try and determine if or what I can rent that could work for me.
Nothing will be certain (what is) - but if my health allows it, I will have to attempt to manage the trees mentioned very soon - and I would prefer to do it with the help of my sons verses spent a lot more on hiring a climber to do a lot of it.. most I don't think would actually consider the work anyway, due to the age, placement, and condition of the trees I need gone anyway!
Sorry to have hijacked this thread - but if it makes it a bit more relevant I will add - that some sort of small top handle or light weight saw would most certainly come in handy if and when I attempt to tackle such a job as mentioned!!
Randy

DHansen · January 21, 2024, 12:14:31 PM

I have used the lifts for tree trimming. Works great to be able to get up and in to the canopy. I use a pole saw and trim away the dead branches and remove widow makers. So much safer than climbing or a ladder. Every couple of years I do trimming around three cabins to keep stuff from falling on building and decks.

DHansen · January 21, 2024, 12:18:03 PM

I prefer trimming in the fall. Easier to see what needs to be done in the tree tops. Ground is also more solid.

realzed · January 21, 2024, 04:59:28 PM

I do have a Stihl pole saw with an extension which is sort of unwieldy at full reach out sideways - but it does the trick well and does provide a good reach - so combined with a bucket lift and my 261 I should have the tools to get something accomplished!
I will have to try and find a good method of tying branches up so I can lower them down because most of them can't be just dropped after cutting without potential damage to something - which obviously makes things slower and cumbersome.. but as you say getting up into the tree using something safer and less risky than ladders or climbing poor trees is the main idea..
I was out there late this afternoon to get my quad in 3 feet of snow - and with no leaves it seems at first glance to be an easy deal IF I can get any sort of small bucket lift close and over a few obstacles to be able to set it up well!
Again thanks for the info and some ideas - hopefully I am in decent enough condition come early Summer to tackle this and I can rest easy for the rest of the time out there without having to constantly worry about things like this!

DHansen · January 21, 2024, 09:41:37 PM

I very often use a winch to lower limbs or branches. Being mindful of the weight been lowered. I have a booster pack and tree saver harness that works when I can't get the truck close enough.

Northwoods3308 · January 22, 2024, 03:43:26 PM

I also have been looking at an echo 2511p, I was able to find the vibration spec for the MS 201 it was around 2.9 m/s . however I haven't been able to find published vibration information for the 2511p anywhere, I checked multiple search engines the echo website and the product manual. Does anyone have the front/ reàr handle vibration spec for the 2511p? If that spec can't be found can anyone who owns a 2511 report their subjective experience of the vibration level? This information is important to me and will help me decide which saw to get thank you for any help you can provide

lxskllr · January 22, 2024, 03:54:40 PM

I have the top handle, and have had no issues with vibration. For reference, all my modern saws are fine for me. I can use them indefinitely without issue. My old poulanpro without a/v would cause my fingers to tingle after ~10 minutes. By that, I would say I'm lower on the sensitivity scale, but not immune to vibration.

DHansen · January 22, 2024, 08:36:48 PM

I have a 339xp Husqvarna and had 2511P Echo. I detected no difference in vibration. But both would act grabby with the depth gauges filed too short. I never cut with the Echo with it's factory supplied bar or chain. I had the dealer install a Oregon bar and chain. I have used Poulan and Craftsman that I thought vibration was horrible. Not sure if these comparisons help with your question. I really did like that Echo and had no complaints. Easy starting, smooth running and never would stall out at idle. Plenty of RPM and torque for cutting 8" diameter or less. And lite weight!

DHansen · January 22, 2024, 08:47:51 PM

I found vibration specs. For the Echo 4.5 front and 4.6 rear.

DHansen · January 22, 2024, 08:50:12 PM

339xp is 4.3 front and 5.1 rear. I don't know how to compare this numbers. Not like measurements in cm or inch.

Northwoods3308 · January 22, 2024, 09:32:06 PM

Thank you that was super helpful! What Oregon b/c do you prefer on your 2511 rather than the stock b/c ? I would probably use that too if I end up getting one

DHansen · January 22, 2024, 09:54:09 PM

I was using a 12" Advance cut bar and a 91VXL VersaCut Chain. .050", 3/8" LP 45DL. I really felt the chain was a good match for this saw. The Homeowner version of chain may be smoother.