Drying pier/wharf piles

[andrewcassels]

 Hi,
I have a huge pile of 80+ year old wharf piles or pier piles. I have test milled one on an Alaskan mill and they appear to be an Australian hardwood.

The timber appears to be checking and cracking quickly as it dries, and it is very hard. 

I am planning to get woodmizer or similar style of Mill to mill them, but before I do,
Is there any tips to milling and drying timber that has been submerged in salt water for a long time?

Thanks

[beenthere]

andrewcassels


Welcome to the Forestry forum.

Where are you located? That may help a lot with answers to your questions. 

First suggestion, before buying a mill just to do this job, would be to hire a mill to do a log or two. May take a lot of convincing to get someone to saw these, but possibly on an hourly charge to figure out any bugs. 

They will check when they dry out, but back in the water will help prevent that happening. 

You have a big job ahead if you move forward.

Others may be more encouraging. But where you are at, and more about your experience and why you want to mill these pilings would be helpful info.

[andrewcassels]

Thanks for the response.
I am located in New Zealand, on the Kapiti Coast of the North Island.
I am a furniture maker and have plenty of experience working with dry rough sawn timber, but I have no milling experience.
I have milled one post with a chain saw/Alaskan mill to test the boards.
The timber appears to be Australian Hardwood (possibly Jarrah) in very good condition.

I am hoping to mill the posts in batches and then stack/sticker them either under shade or under a purpose built roof for future furniture projects.

[longtime lurker]

The three main species used for wharf piles in Australia are Turpentine, Red Ironbark, and in the south west Jarrah due to its proximity. Of the three the most commonly used is Turpentine because it's one of the most resistant species to marine borers in the world. The oleoresins (predominantly in the sapwood but through the true wood as well) and the  high level of silica hurts their teeth.

Turp can be a problem child to mill and a lot of sawmills avoid it. 13% tangential shrinkage, 7% radial shrinkage from green to 10% MC. Prone to collapse and checking if not dried carefully. And silica enough that it's just hard on the gear.

It's also extremely stable once dry, stunningly beautiful with a lustrous red  to brown colouration, is extremely hard and resistant to indentation, with a very fine grain that means it takes a polish well. It is the main Australian species used for dance floors because you can't hurt it jumping about in stilleto heels.

If it's Turpentine - and chances are it is - you're probably best off hiring in a portable mill with tungsten carbide or better yet stellite teeth. ( stellite handles silica marginally better) or investing in a tungsten chain if you want to chainsaw mill. Cut oversize to allow for shrinkage, block stack to slow moisture loss, and keep hosing your packs of boards for a month: you've got to slow your initial drying rate right down to avoid collapse and checking down the track 

I'm one of the dumb guys who mill it... despite  its issues I love the stuff.

[K-Guy]

If checking is bad,seal the ends with a good sealer not paint asap.  Consider doing a double coat of it as it helps a lot on walnut,  which is also bad for end check.