Another Oil Thread 🙄

[JKendrick87]

 

   
A rep stopped by today and dropped this off... anyone have any experience running this?

[Walnut Beast]

Many guys like their grease. I asked a Stihl head mechanic about using Amsoil in mine. His response was absolutely positive stuff from everything he's seen. It's  probably pretty good.

[HuckFin]

Is it recommended for chainsaws specifically?

[JKendrick87]

Is it recommended for chainsaws specifically?

Anything two cycle according to the rep.

[Magicman]

What I put in my Stihl chainsaws has Stihl written on the bottle.  I trusted their R&D which is why I bought the chainsaw so......

[JKendrick87]

What I put in my Stihl chainsaws has Stihl written on the bottle.  I trusted their R&D which is why I bought the chainsaw so......

Understood sir, Love the chainsaws just not the oil, converted to Red Armor and have never looked back!

[jhellwig]

https://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/228-706-td.pdf

It says meets or exceeds JASO FA, FB and FC and says TCW3 so people are either going to poo on it or poo themselves over it.

I messed up and original posted this one.  It at least goes to JASO FD
https://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/346-9046-td.pdf
Sorry that is their regular one.

[barbender]

 My understanding is that the tc-w3 spec and JASO specs are very different targets, and trying to hit them both with the same oil compromises both. I run oil that is JASO spec only, made especially for air cooled engines.

[Ianab]

With modern synthetics it's possible to at least meet both standards. It mostly has to do with the temp the engine normally runs at, with water cooled running a bit cooler. With old school oils, that might mean the "air cooled" type didn't burn properly, and carboned things up. Or the "water" cooled" broke down at the higher temps, so didn't lube so well. Hence the 2 different standards and types of oil.

But with the fine tuning of the blend they can do with synthetic oils it's possible to formulate a recipe that works OK over a wider temp range.

Now it is possible that a modern oil specifically formulated for "air cooled" might exceed the minimum spec by more, and same for water cooled. So that might be a reason to choose those. But is that enough of a reason to run 2 different mix cans?  Especially if it's a multi use synthetic that that probably exceeds both standards anyway.

It's a bit like running different grades of engine oil for summer and winter, which was done before multi-grade oils came along. Now you just use synthetic 10W-50 and don't worry about the season.

[JKendrick87]

I may give it a shot for a can of gas since it was free, I normally run Red Armor and have been happy with it.

[B.C.C. Lapp]

I have probably tried a dozen or more different kinds of two cycle mix over the past thirty years.    It all worked fine.  I have never not once had a saw "blow up" as guys say, and I get long life out of most of my saws.   The motor's never go, the saws just wear out in other ways.     Its all the same stuff with different colors added.   
And that ain't from me. I was told that by two people. One that spent his working life in an oil refinery and the other was a Stihl rep. 

[JKendrick87]

I truly believe that! It's all a sales gimmick!

[lxskllr]

Once I've used my Stihl silver oil, I'll be switching to RedArmor, and I'm pulling my mufflers for inspection. I've heard stihl oil leaves more carbon deposits. I guess I'll see some time this winter. Using stihl(silver) oil technically violates echo's warranty. It doesn't meet spec. I doubt you'd get called on it, but you could.

[realzed]

After much agonizing and attempting to buy Stihl Synthetic (silver bottles) it became pretty clear than Stihl just doesn't want to sell that type of oil in these parts as none of the local dealers could get any in for months and some close to a year!
So I switched to Amsoil Saber oil and found it doesn't smoke at all - not that the Stihl stuff did all that much either - but I haven't noticed as much gunk plugging up the spark arrestor screens of any of my Stihl tools, trimmer, blower and saws as I previously did.
I still mix it at around 45:1 just like I did with the silver stuff and no smell at all is what I noticed after a few runs.. but other than that, if it can be used at 100:1 as Amsoil states - I'm sure all my engines are safe at the mix I use it at - so that is what I use now..
Don't understand Stihl's logic in making their synthetic hard or harder to get but it apparently has - thus Amsoil has me as a new fan!

[jhellwig]

I posted the wrong data sheet again.  It was for the 7000 not the 9000.

https://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/248-9006-td.pdf

So now every one is in this thread.

[JKendrick87]

Once I've used my Stihl silver oil, I'll be switching to RedArmor, and I'm pulling my mufflers for inspection. I've heard stihl oil leaves more carbon deposits. I guess I'll see some time this winter. Using stihl(silver) oil technically violates echo's warranty. It doesn't meet spec. I doubt you'd get called on it, but you could.

That's why I made the switch my FS 110 and BG86 were so choked off from years of the silver bottle. I've noticed quite the improvement since switching.

[JKendrick87]

I posted the wrong data sheet again.  It was for the 7000 not the 9000.

https://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/248-9006-td.pdf

So now every one is in this thread.

Thank you for your time on this!

[Walnut Beast]

After much agonizing and attempting to buy Stihl Synthetic (silver bottles) it became pretty clear than Stihl just doesn't want to sell that type of oil in these parts as none of the local dealers could get any in for months and some close to a year!
So I switched to Amsoil Saber oil and found it doesn't smoke at all - not that the Stihl stuff did all that much either - but I haven't noticed as much gunk plugging up the spark arrestor screens of any of my Stihl tools, trimmer, blower and saws as I previously did.
I still mix it at around 45:1 just like I did with the silver stuff and no smell at all is what I noticed after a few runs.. but other than that, if it can be used at 100:1 as Amsoil states - I'm sure all my engines are safe at the mix I use it at - so that is what I use now..
Don't understand Stihl's logic in making their synthetic hard or harder to get but it apparently has - thus Amsoil has me as a new fan!

Absolutely! That's one of their claims. Been running both in my Stihl saws. Amsoil actually recommends on their mixing ratios that you don't have to use as much but I keep at the regular ratio. Have the Stihl silver also. Amsoil on the bar oil and silver bar oil.


The Red Armor I run in other stuff. No problems but I have noticed that some of the mixture that sits on and around the outside of the plastic can seems to get sticky so I decided not to run it in the newer saws and roll With Stihl Premium and Amsoil

[barbender]

 I run the Amsoil Saber as well, at 40:1. I want lots of high quality oil drowning my bearings😁 The Saber oil is the best deal for me for a high quality synthetic.

[thecfarm]

That Amsoil saber sounds good.
I mix husky oil 40:1.
I have enough of it to last me a couple years.

[DHansen]

On the bottles of Amsoil Saber it states, "For maximum benefit, use the SABER Ratio."  I have been using the Saber oil for years, at 40:1, but have often wondered what benefits I am missing out on by not running the Saber Ratio?   I switched to Saber because I was having Exhaust screen plugging up on a 266XP running oil that left more deposits.  Looked like tar on the spark arrester screen.  I have no complains about the Amsoil Saber oil.  I also use Amsoil on the sleds and water toys.  I have had no issues with Husqvarna HP+ either.  We all have our preferences.  I could save money running the Saber ratio, but is it worth it?  I don't know.

[barbender]

 If there was a definitive way to establish any engine failure was due to the oil ratio and Amsoil would cover it, sure I'll run the 100:1. As it is, I figure I can blow it on the math and even if I accidentally double the amount of gas, I'll still be within Amsoil's ratio recommendation😁

[donbj]

To me the higher the ratio/less oil, the less the bearings like it. Jmo

[OH logger]

I have ran the amsoil saber for 5-10 years now. I get it in the plastic bottles that have enough oil in them to mix in 6 gallons gas at 100:1. My gas cans are 2.5 gallon cans. I have a gravity tank at home with non corn gas on with no meter. So I just put in 3 gallon worth of amsoil (markings on bottle) and fill
The gas can to the top.  I'm guessing that's about 2.7 gallon or so. I checked it once at a gas station pump. So I'm a little richer than 100:1. Saws run great. A while back I  ran over a saw and ruined it.  My mechanic also sells me the amsoil took apart my saw and asked if he could use my jug and piston as part of his display. Looked brand new and the saw was WELL used. I used to use Stihl.  I'd never go back. My mechanic gave me the first bottle of amsoil and promised if I mixed it like the bottle said it'd be good. Saw smelled way different and hot.  I called him and said something isn't right. He said it's just burnin out the built up carbon. Saw came to life

[barbender]

 I just can't do the 100:1. It's not the piston and cylinder I'm worried about, I want more oil on the bearings.