End-sealing logs

[Engineer]

I use Anchorseal, not a substitute.  I bought a hand pump sprayer from Tractor Supply and it clogged up almost immediately.   :(  I gotta figure out how to clean it out, I won't try that again.  You really need a special sprayer and some high pressure to spray it on.  On logs it works OK, but a lot of runs.  On planed timbers, forget it.   :(  What a mess.

The best way is with a wide brush or a trim roller - you can take the roller or brush and just seal it up in a plastic ziploc bag for the next time.    The stuff makes a huge difference.  I bucked up some black birch last week, couldn't get the anchorseal on fast enough.  It checked almost immediately.  I left some smaller pieces unsealed and they look like junk now.    Only way to cure end checking at a late stage is to cut the ends and try again.  It helps a lot on the drying pile too.

It's also made a huge difference on the ends of the timbers for my house frame - we have been sealing them after cutting and joinery, and they stay clean and unchecked, and the wax acts as a lubricant when you slide the joints together.

[maple flats]

What is the shelf life of anchor seal? I think I will buy 5 gal but not if I need to use it in a very short time after opening it. I will not be sawing many sawlog trees this year, most of it will be firewood in a big thinning project to open up the canopy for the better stuf with only a little being big enough to saw into lumber. I do however have a few jobs for custom sawing lined up that I would like to have them seal as they saw. One is a guy cutting cherry who wants to get it done up into paneling to install in his new house with the trees on his property. I may also want to buy a couple od 2 gal cans to sell him to keep the logs better.

[Engineer]

I've had my pail for two years (not much milling until recently), and I am almost done with it.   It's just a wax emulsion, as long as you keep the lid on it, it should last a pretty long time. 

The local woodturner's group bought a 55 gallon drum of the stuff and they decant it into plastic cranberry juice bottles for the members to buy as needed.  Proceeds benefit the club.

[Brad_S.]

Just don't let it freeze or you'll have a big candle.  ;)

[PawNature]

It is my understanding that most tie buyers want 6" or more to allow for checking. Can you save that 6" if you coat in anchorseal.

[Tony_T]

Just don't let it freeze or you'll have a big candle.  ;)

Anchorseal comes in a winter formula,still works in summer too.  I've been milling a lot of ash and if sealed right after bucking it really mades a big difference in checking.  One coat is good but a second is better

[Frank_Pender]

Call the number again  (above), at this time.   Ask to speak with Grant Beldin.  They have all but been cut loose from Valspar, as I understand. 

[AtLast]

Im sure Anchor is a great product...but for the life of me cant understand WHY ANY of you dont just use simple Latex house paint...Ive use it for YEARS and it has ALWAYS done its job....again...Anchor is GREAT...BUT to get the " bang for your buck"....good ole Latex.....go to Home Depot or what ever and pick it up for 3 bucks a gallon...it will serve the same purpose...well..it has for me anyway....sealing the ends is the task.....Latex WILL do that and has for me over and over and over...do as u wish..BUT...I choose to use Latex paint for a HECK of alot cheaper than anything else....I seal EVERY log with it...and to date have had the same results....just my 2 cents worth......

[beenthere]

From what I understand;
Paraffin wax is the best water vapor seal against water vapor moving out of wood, which I suspect Anchorseal has this wax in it.
Usually the problem is to get the paraffin wax onto the wood.   Melted paraffin wax would be best, but it cools too fast before it gets into the wood cells, so it needs to be suspended in a liquid form (like with mineral spirits or fuel oil) to get it spread on and into the wood.
Latex paint doesn't restrict water vapor when painted on walls, so it likely can't be as good as paraffin wax, and likely not 'as good' as Anchorseal, but probably a whole much better than nothing at all. But, if it works good enough, then it sure is 'good enuff'   

[Radar67]

Beenthere,
     Down here in the south part of the country, you could just about spread paraffin like butter in the summer heat.  :D

[Kirk_Allen]

I do not recommend using paint of ANY kind.  I know it may seal the ends but paint is FULL of abrasives and it will dull you blades faster than using a water based wax sealer. 

Using paint also prevents you from seeing the grain, which depending on what your sawing is important to see. 

[Mike_Barcaskey]

please correct my thinking if wrong,
you can either buck your log to just about the exact length and put sealer on the end
or you can leave an allowance for the checking by bucking your log 4-8 inches longer than needed
so you either buy sealer and save log length
or save the money spent on sealer and lose a little log

now if using the latex paint, your saving the log and spending very little for the sealer and if Kirk is right (paint dulls blades faster) why not cut your log just 2 or 3 inches longer, seal with paint and cut a thin cookie off the end of the log when you go to mill it. of course you wont have the protective sealing after the boards are cut.
:D wrote all that just to answer my own question  :D

well I seal my good hardwoods with Anchorseal (or paint) and leave a 6" allowance on my softwoods for my presonal use
or I ask the mill i'm selling to what their preference is

[dutchman]

I started sealing with paraffin melted in boiled linseed oil.
Heat oil in 3# coffee can add one piece parafffin and stir.
Brush on.
Once melted the mix stays usable until cold.
Switched to Anchorseal to avoid possible fire.
I still cut lenghts oversize 6-8".