My New lt50 things not looking good

[widetrackman]

If I start adjusting the head to bunks

This subject has been discussed many times in the past here on the FF.  My recommendation and also from the other replies, is to NOT make any bed adjustments, and even then, ONLY until you have talked with your selling dealer, Tim.

All bunks where on 15" spec.s except the 3rd which was high. I only adjusted it to the 15" spec. which should not cause any problems, so l think.

[widetrackman]

Smoke and squeal problem solved. I was surfing YouTube's last night for WM lt 40 drive belt problems when I got a hit with the following tille; Wood Mizer LT 40 Drive Belt-Smokeing, Grabbing at Idle. If you listen to him, it sounds like he is in a WM facility as he says 'they are getting these to tight'.  Look at this YouTube , it's easier than me trying to explain. I adjusted as he advised and no squeal ,no smoke when idling and blade brake stops blade as it should.

[Brad_bb]

12 hours on a "new" mill?  To me that's a lot of running time for a new mill.  Was it sold as a demo unit?  12 hours is a lot of cutting.  I'm assuming the hour meter is only running when the engine is running?  

Sounds like a miserable experience when it should be a pleasant one.

[Ben Cut-wright]

That brake strap adjustment is explained in the "auto clutch linkage" maintenance section (5) of your manual.  If the smoked belt is gonna be used it might pay to check the tension now.  These two adjustments go hand in hand, one affects the other.  Also check the drive belt support.  Instruction for the support adjustment are in the drive belt adjustment section of your manual.

The manual has pictures too.  BG

[widetrackman]

Section 5 could be clearer as it does not address squealing/smoking drive belt. The YouTube title I posted shows what will cause smoking a belt. Take a look at that YouTube you can tell whether your belt has enough slack with autoclutch off. My Mill had a little over an inch instead of the recommended 3/8-1/4 inch (which appears to be by a WM person). This solved my problem.

[YellowHammer]

Useful video.

However, you still need to check that your drive belt is ticking over or you will smoke it again.

You also need a main drive belt tension gauge and readjust the belt when engaged, especially on a new one and routinely afterward.  Many cutting and sawing issues are due to an improperly tensioned drive belt. 

[Southside]

Did you verify that the belt has the correct tension using the supplied tool when the clutch is engaged?  If not you will either have a problem with the band slipping while cutting causing poor cutting performance if it's too loose, or you will wipe out the idle side bearing if it's too tight. 

[Ben Cut-wright]

Section 5 could be clearer as it does not address squealing/smoking drive belt. The YouTube title I posted shows what will cause smoking a belt. Take a look at that YouTube you can tell whether your belt has enough slack with autoclutch off. My Mill had a little over an inch instead of the recommended 3/8-1/4 inch (which appears to be by a WM person). This solved my problem.

Happy that you to find the information you preferred and got your current problem *alleviated.  My intent was to add information and point out factory printed instructions.  There is NO operator or service and repair manual capable of addressing every circumstance.  Your "belt noise and eventual smoking" problem is a long known (cause and effect) entity here at this website. As you read in the replies, there are additional things related to drive belt (slack-tension) to check and/or adjust.

The gentleman in the video appears to have a well equipped shop, but his methods and instructions are not up to WoodMizer standards, IMO.

[MartyParsons]

Hello
   Drive belt on the 38 Kohler gas. The supplement in the manual Auto Clutch . 
The new belts have Kevlar ( what I am told) the Kevlar fibers take time to stretch. If you let the belt smoke and get hot the fibers can shrink. With new customers that tend to let the engine idle and even seasoned operators don't let this happen! Remove the cover under the lube tank and raise the brake UP so the engine can go down as much as possible, doing this may not let the band brake stop the band, before this adjustment mark the factory location of the brake adjustment. 
Review " loosen brake adjust as needed to get band to stop then do not let engine idle. Once you get about 25-50 hours readjust after the belt gets flexible. 
Remember to check belt adjustment after the first 25 hours.
Hope this helps! 
M

[widetrackman]

Hello
  Drive belt on the 38 Kohler gas. The supplement in the manual Auto Clutch .
The new belts have Kevlar ( what I am told) the Kevlar fibers take time to stretch. If you let the belt smoke and get hot the fibers can shrink. With new customers that tend to let the engine idle and even seasoned operators don't let this happen! Remove the cover under the lube tank and raise the brake UP so the engine can go down as much as possible, doing this may not let the band brake stop the band, before this adjustment mark the factory location of the brake adjustment.
Review " loosen brake adjust as needed to get band to stop then do not let engine idle. Once you get about 25-50 hours readjust after the belt gets flexible.
Remember to check belt adjustment after the first 25 hours.
Hope this helps!
 No smoking or squealing after adj the brake and getting 3/8"/1/4" at bottom of sliding linkage with autoclutch off. Plenty of slack in belt at idle. Checked belt tension with WD tool and got 20 lbs at 7/16" is this ok for 12 hrs on Mill as should be 18.lbs.

Hello
  Drive belt on the 38 Kohler gas. The supplement in the manual Auto Clutch .
The new belts have Kevlar ( what I am told) the Kevlar fibers take time to stretch. If you let the belt smoke and get hot the fibers can shrink. With new customers that tend to let the engine idle and even seasoned operators don't let this happen! Remove the cover under the lube tank and raise the brake UP so the engine can go down as much as possible, doing this may not let the band brake stop the band, before this adjustment mark the factory location of the brake adjustment.
Review " loosen brake adjust as needed to get band to stop then do not let engine idle. Once you get about 25-50 hours readjust after the belt gets flexible.
Remember to check belt adjustment after the first 25 hours.
Hope this helps!
M

Hello
  Drive belt on the 38 Kohler gas. The supplement in the manual Auto Clutch .
The new belts have Kevlar ( what I am told) the Kevlar fibers take time to stretch. If you let the belt smoke and get hot the fibers can shrink. With new customers that tend to let the engine idle and even seasoned operators don't let this happen! Remove the cover under the lube tank and raise the brake UP so the engine can go down as much as possible, doing this may not let the band brake stop the band, before this adjustment mark the factory location of the brake adjustment.
Review " loosen brake adjust as needed to get band to stop then do not let engine idle. Once you get about 25-50 hours readjust after the belt gets flexible.
Remember to check belt adjustment after the first 25 hours.
Hope this helps!

[widetrackman]

Section 5 could be clearer as it does not address squealing/smoking drive belt. The YouTube title I posted shows what will cause smoking a belt. Take a look at that YouTube you can tell whether your belt has enough slack with autoclutch off. My Mill had a little over an inch instead of the recommended 3/8-1/4 inch (which appears to be by a WM person). This solved my problem.

Happy that you to find the information you preferred and got your current problem *alleviated.  My intent was to add information and point out factory printed instructions.  There is NO operator or service and repair manual capable of addressing every circumstance.  Your "belt noise and eventual smoking" problem is a long known (cause and effect) entity here at this website. As you read in the replies, there are additional things related to drive belt (slack-tension) to check and/or adjust.

The gentleman in the video appears to have a well equipped shop, but his methods and instructions are not up to WoodMizer standards, IMO.

What is or is not preferred is not a issue, this type of adjustment is not covered in the manual, is common enough that it should be, IMO

[widetrackman]

A new $60,000 Mill the that is shipped with the problem I had which damaged my belt will generate warranty claims. Seems it would not cost WM much to include 3 or 4 sentences in there manual vs possible warranty claims. Maybe someone could contact WM and see what they say. IMO

[Old Greenhorn]

I would think that you would be the best person to do this.

[barbender]

 If you are looking for help and resources, this is a great place. You've gotten some excellent advice. Did you call and talk to Woodmizer about your situation today or yesterday?

[widetrackman]

Well I called about the debarker problem and could not get past a sales or tech person. Maybe some or at least me, have been unable to talk to any managerial personal.. I have been unable to find any phone no.s or email address's of managers. It appears they hide any contact access to customers or the public. Maybe someone like Marty Parsons could address my comments with WM headquarters. I am done with this issue as I have solved my problem.

[Ben Cut-wright]

What is or is not preferred is not a issue, this type of adjustment is not covered in the manual, is common enough that it should be, IMO

The adjustment the video illustrated and the one you say you performed on your mill IS covered in the manual section I referenced. I was trying to point out that the brake strap, the drive belt, and the autoclutch adjustments can have affect on each other.  If you adjust one you need to at least check the others. 


Marty quoted the procedure in the "autoclutch" *supplement regarding initial drive belt break-in procedures.  If the mill has autoclutch you should have the supplement. If not you can view it at the WoodMizer link. 

[Ben Cut-wright]

I have been unable to find any phone no.s or email address's of managers. It appears they hide any contact access to customers or the public.

Don't you have a WoodMizer card with contact phone number and your personal customer number? I've always been impressed at the ease of contacting them.  Their knowledge and service has been top-notch.

[Old Greenhorn]

Conducting business properly usually means you will contact the dealer you bought the mill from as your first point of contact. This is their job to keep individual customers serviced, supplied and supported. If they can't help you, THEY should be able to refer you to someone further up the ladder at corporate to help with your specific issue. You really need to begin at the dealer. Trying to jump right into the corporate level is a rookie move and rarely works well. Keep in mind that they (your dealer) want to be selling you blades and parts for your equipment for years to come. I assume your machine was purchased from WM Mississippi in Louisville? Their Office Number is 663-803-4332 and you can ask for Kim or Tim Hobby. This information is right on their website home page, not hidden. They are the principals at that dealership. I would explain your issues and concerns calmly, politely, and without any raised voice. Sometimes it helps to be ready with a simple list in front of you with your basic simple points to stay on topic. Don't get tied up in tiny nits, stick to the important stuff.
 I get that you are upset and aggravated and you can tell them that, but keep it polite and simply stated. Leave the passion out of it, there is nothing they can do to solve that issue.
 I had to handle issues like this with new capitol equipment purchases for 4 decades from both sides of the phone, whether it was machines not built to contract specs, poor performance, missing options, or unapproved changes. When you are working in the 6 or 7 digit price ranges, people can get really excited and the original issue can get lost in a non-productive argument leading to lawyers getting involved. None of that solves the problem and gets people to work. Keep it on a professional level to get the best results. Remember your "Sirs" and "Ma'ams".

[stanmillnc]

I am also a relatively new owner of a LT50. Like many have reported with post-COVID build sawmills, I had some minor issues upon startup. The drive belt was way under tensioned, lube-mizer issue, hydraulic leaks, and some other minor adjustments were required. My new mill wasn't test-run by the dealer because it's electric and they don't have three phase power. The WM support team was easily accessible, and supportive to work me through these minor issues. As this is my third WM mill, I was already familiar with operation and maintenance, so this helps. With all three of my WM sawmills I received a consistently high level of customer support - both through my local dealer and the factory. 

[SawyerTed]

Buying something like a $60k sawmill means a purchaser is entering a long term relationship with the dealer and manufacturer.  That's especially true for things like sawmills, tractors and other machines and equipment.

It's important to keep that relationship working.  That takes communication and persistence.  It's frustrating when the purchaser feels his concerns are being overlooked.  But that's when you talk to whoever you get on the phone.  If that means starting with a technician, do it.  Let them know.

Communicated correctly concerns will work through to who needs to know. 

Keep trying your dealer. 

[Stephen1]

I am on my 3rd mill, 1 Norwood and 2 WM. 2 of these mills were old machines that both companies helped me keep running with great service. Most of the problems stemmed from me running them and not knowing how to  service and repair. 
My last mill the 2018, has been great but still lots of little quirks as you learn the mill. Most of my problems have stemmed from operator error. A few were factory problems and all were solved with phone calls to the local dealer and service tech. 
You have bought a machine that you and with help from WM will be the mechanic on. Yes the manual is not the most perfect,, but I have found with reading it over 3-4 times, thinking, patience, and then a call to WM I can solve all the problems. 
Drive Belt and Brake are both related and are very important, and need to be adjusted together. I still check my Drive belt every week , not very often does it need adjusting and then the brake needs adjusting, and then the auto clutch needs adjusting.
Don't let your engine idle for long periods of time as it screws up the drive belt. 

Safety says Don't be working on your mill measuring and adjust the head with the engine running. 

Call WM lots as they will hep you all they can, as Tom says, lots of please and thank you. sugar gets more than vinegar. My contact at WM gave me his personal number so he can help me if I'm down when I am on the road. Lots of little things that WM does to help us keep this machines running. 
Get to making sawdust as soon as you can so you can learn that mill!
Cheers

[OH logger]

Dang I hate to hear all that.  Sounds like brand new mills aren't trouble free like they used to be or SHOULD BE. $60,000 later and there's hyd leaks and other crap that I have  to work on instead of paying for the new machine. Bull crap.  You would think a dealer would have to have either 3 phase or a converter to test new machines so this problem wouldn't come up.    I know everyone blames poor quality, late deadlines and long waits on Covid but quite frankly I think that's just becoming a crutch 

[Magicman]

Sawmills are simple machines but they are also very multifaceted with mechanical, electrical, and hydraulic functions and adjustments.  Since learning and understanding skills vary widely between individuals it is virtually impossible to have a one-size-fits-all Operator/Owner Manual.  Some owners read and understand, some read and do not understand, and then some do not even read.

Marty Parsons detailed a few of the run time intervals and adjustments that are required on a new sawmill, belt replacement, etc.  Reading, understanding, and following through are not just good ideas, they are requirements.  An owners manual, square, and belt tension gauge all need to see regular use.

[Southside]

I know everyone blames poor quality, late deadlines and long waits on Covid but quite frankly I think that's just becoming a crutch 

There was a significant shift in work ethic and motivation during the Covid period and the fact is things have not returned to normal.  As an employer I see it all the time. Had someone yesterday tell me they want to come and work for me while they "file for their disability" because they "can't do their job anymore" --- umm, nope you aren't going to be on my payroll.  I have no idea what, if anything it will take, to turn this around.  

[Nealm66]

So curious, I have an lt50 ordered, are these adjustments I can expect to have to make before I run the mill? Is this something they will show me how to do when I pick the mill up? When Marty says not to idle is he saying to leave it engaged while bringing the mill back from a cut? Or just to not do any extended idles? I know there's some adjustments that need to be made within the first 50 hours as the belts stretch but is this additional?