Shop

[SwampDonkey]

Well, the woodshop and stove are all done this month. I see some nice tools starting to arrive by carrier. As soon as the new laptop arrives we need a small tour.    My next task, for my man servent, is to get in the firewood. Ya, my cousin had a good belly laugh when I used that wording. She's a nurse, now studying for a  masters to teach the profession, and she's in charge of that roost. Ah, but we love her to death.

[SwampDonkey]

Noticed an add in 'Canadian Woodworking', for a spiral cutter head designed for my Dewalt735 thickness planer. Released in 2022 by Sheartak.com  . Anyone ever see or try one? They make'm for many brands.
https://www.sheartak.com/spiral-cutterhead/dewalt/spiral-cutterhead-for-dewalt-13inch-planer-dw-735

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_LzXVichVA

 

[Tom K]

I seam to remember a tread a ways back discussing spiral heads for the DW735, but cant seem to find it. A few guys had the Sheartak & Shelix heads and were happy with them.

[SwampDonkey]

I'd wait until after the waranty expires before any tampering. I have a new set of straight knives installed at the factory, plus a spare set unopened. I will eventually get the spiral head. The job is less difficult than rebuilding a brush saw motor, so piece of cake.

[firefighter ontheside]

I put sheartak heads in my 735 and in my old Delta 8" jointer.  I'm very happy with them.  They come from Canada.  I put a byrd shelix in previous jointer and I don't see any difference in cut quality.

[SwampDonkey]

Some interior shots of the shop.





Have a ton of stuff and machines to move in. More shelves, a couple tool cabinets, bench to build. First, the old machines need a good cleaning, a project in itself. 

[doc henderson]

SD what is the pallet looking divider for to the right of the stove in the first pic?

[SwampDonkey]

What type of collection do you guys use on your planer? I know I will need a hood type dust collection over the lathe, the Festol should handle that I think. But the planer wood chips needs some volume. Has a 2-1/2" shoot. Some type of cyclone into a lidded barrel?

[Old Greenhorn]

Planers make a lot of chips fast. My shop is split upstairs and down with the bigger collector upstairs. Downstairs where I plane I have a smaller unit. it holds about 15 or 20 gallons and fills fast when I am running stock through. If it's a short hose run, you don't need a ton of suction, but the bigger container you can get, the better. When mine fills, I got no suction, chips recirculate and mess up the wood.
 I am always looking for another for a spare (cheap used), especially since I had to repair the one on the mill yesterday.

[SwampDonkey]

SD what is the pallet looking divider for to the right of the stove in the first pic?

There is a second one like it toward the door. Firewood storage area. It's built solid. Should hold 2 - 16" wood ranks. This year the wood will be long, but my little electric chain saw will cut it up as needed. Kinda like Jeff's he was demoing out on his trail blazing video. I've used it lots around the furnace wood to snip off 4" now and again. They are pretty strong, I cut cedar fence post with it this spring.

[SwampDonkey]

I think I have the hood figured out for the lathe and sander, I have 4" hose and reducer from the Festool, good old duct tape might even come into play. Also a hood stand that I can move around. But yeah, wood chips built up fast. I do have a big old shop vac, that might do for now. I'm not going to be plaining large volumes, trim wood, and only need 90 board feet of maple for that bench. Just have to watch it, empty often.

[Andries]

Oh, the sight of a brand new shop with an uncluttered, super organized look to it.
Very, very nice SD!
I've got the DeWalt planer as well, it's been a great machine.
OGH Tom has it right, as usual. There's a lot of chips that come off a planer (and a jointer for that matter). You'll want to set up a good way to manage that stuff otherwise it'll drive you nuts in shovelling and sweeping.
Here's what I use:

I bought it used and similar to your wood stove, the ductwork/chimney costs about as much as the collector/stove itself.

[doc henderson]

was trying to calculate the volume, but the plywood looks so similar, I cannot make out the H x W x L.

[doc henderson]

If 8 x 12 feet guessing 1.3 cord to the ceiling?

[SwampDonkey]

One of the issues with the flue, was there was only 1-1/2" clearance from the ceiling and the stove pipe from the stove. There has to be at least 4". The pipe is double walled, but it gets hot, and heat goes up. The flue itself you could put your hands on and not burn. But it to has to be 2" from any rafter or joist. That can heat up in a flue fire. So that had to move toward the door about 1-1/2". The pipe and the flue is in a straight line to the outside, a nice whistle when a breeze passes over. I don't expect anything but soot. The pipe is sleeved, so it telescopes, easy to remove and clean. Secured my screws.

[SwampDonkey]

The OD is R16. It fits snug, we'll see how it hold in the heat this winter. The south end is easier to keep warm than a north end door. I still have to insulate the casing of the entry door and trim.

[Hilltop366]

Nice shop!

I built a small one 16x 28', insulated finished walls heated with in-floor HW from the house wood boiler, don't seem to use it much but handy when I do. Your clean shop pictures almost make me want to go clean mine.

[SwampDonkey]

Thanks a bunch. I'll be out there a lot in the winter, even if I just burn firewood, like I told my cousin.   

[SwampDonkey]

Doc., 1-1/2 cords  ~190 cu feet, stacked 7 feet high. Will stack 1/2 cord in front, square stack the ends. Be plenty, won't need much, but I left ~2 cords out of the big pile. My old shop, I never burned more than a cord all winter. 

[Old Greenhorn]

I am really excite for you with the new shop. This is a game changer for you I hope. If I were building new, I would go with a heated slab and an OWB, much easier to maintain for the full season. With a woodstove you need to either burn all the time 24/7 or try to reheat the thermal mass in the building for work sessions. Better to just keep the heat going as much as you can to keep the building temp in the 50's or higher.
I use a remote thermometer probe in the shop that I can watch from inside at my desk and notice any irregularities. Since I work out there for full days most of the winter, I just try to keep it comfortable all the time and let it drop in the high 50's overnight. Also, my ceiling fan runs ALL the time, for almost 40 years straight now and that helps a lot to keep the building temps even. It doesn't run fast, it just mixes all the air and blows the hot air from the ceiling down to the floor. It just makes for more even heating of the building very cheaply. It's draws less than a half amp.
But it depends on what you want. You already know it takes a while to build a 'relationship' with a stove. It is even more to get used to a stove AND a new building. You just have to work at it.
I'm excited for you this is a huge adventure for you and you get to create a new world for yourself. Not a lot of folks get to do that. Enjoy the ride.
BTW, how often do you expect to open that garage door in the winter months?

[SwampDonkey]

BTW, how often do you expect to open that garage door in the winter months?

Very little, if none.    My experience in the past, is a good stove will keep a building warm 3 days without freezing water. Once the burn season starts, a shop stays dry all winter as in RH. Moisture was only trouble on surfaces in the warm seasons with high humidity. One can stick a dehumidifier with a hose out under the door or small AC in a window to keep that down. Both use as much juice on the electric bill. I'd say an AC probably is more efficient. No interest here in floor heat or boilers, a stove is most desirable for heat in my case.

[SwampDonkey]

I bought it used and similar to your wood stove, the ductwork/chimney costs about as much as the collector/stove itself.

Metal duct is the safest, like yours. No static build up to go poof. Otherwise you have to run grounded copper wire in and around the duct work.

Safety sheet attached.

03J-dust-collection-system-memo-0002.pdf

[SwampDonkey]

Moved my vice and grinder up this morning into the shop and mounted them. I put backer board under the vice up against 2x4", she'll never move if you want to bend a piece of iron.    It's a good Record vice to, can't even buy one local anymore. But the grinder is nothing to brag about, just a Mastercraft, a hardware store brand. But I do put good wheels on it for sharpening and honing metal.



new Rigid vac, got an extra hose to.

[SwampDonkey]

I hauled up all the machine tools today, this morning actually. Pickup loads, and by dolly cart. I mean used the pick-up, not loaded floor to ceiling. I was wet clean through and about played out for sure, cause I had to pull up hill and after 6 weeks of doing nothing I haven't the best of stamina, plus lack of testosterone levels don't help none. Now the work begins, not for awhile, to clean them all up. Lots of work there in itself. The rust is only surface, not pitted. 

Table saw with Incra attachments and side extensions over on the mobile table, bandsaw, table belt sander by the door, drill press, jointer in the middle



Lathe in pieces.



That old iron is heavy.   

[Old Greenhorn]

Looking good man! You've got years to finish things up right, like trimming windows and doors etc. I don't see any kind of belt sander there, yet to come? Nature abhors a vacuum. But you have time. I try to rebuild a machine a year when I have a few backed up, but looks like yours just need a lick and a promise to get them up and going. I find on those surface rust tables is to spray them thick with WD40 and rub them with scotch brite. Works like a charm and it's pretty dang quick, especially on flat tables like on the saw and planer. One shop I had the building either sweated or breathed too much and I had to re-do tables and machines parts every year if I didn't spray them with wd40 every few weeks. But that scotch brite works great and it doesn't hurt the table. It will also clean off sap and wax buildup with the WD.
 It will all get done, don't kill yourself. We need your knowledge here.