Shop

[SwampDonkey]

The sander is over in the corner, upper middle by the OH door. Behind the firewood studs. You can flip to table 0 to 90 degrees, it's up now. There is also a sanding disk on the side of it you can't see.

The old barn where the old shop is was terrible for moisture as it doesn't have good drainage. Damp in there in the warm seasons. The place is 75 years old. The roof construction was the best part of it.

[rusticretreater]

If you apply a good coat of wax once a year you shouldn't have any rust issues and you don't get messy WD40 on your wood.

[SwampDonkey]

I think they discontinued the paste wax everyone used. There is a thread on it from last winter. Ain't the same as paste car wax. And probably not the same as MINWAX furniture paste wax. There is spray on stuff I have used from BOSTIKS.

[Machinebuilder]

I'm a fan of Boeshield T9 for my tool surfaces.

I have learned to not leave a piece of wood sitting on my tablesaw though............

[Old Greenhorn]

Yeah the paste wax or equivalent, is the ay to go for keeping it clean and slick, but when you have that 'patina' on there, you need to get it off first. That's where the WD and scotch brite really shines (see what I did there?). Forgot to mention that you need to clean that off and wax it, but I figured everyone knew that. Oil on wood is a no go. That rust cleaning can be a PITA, but the method I use works really well and fast.

[Larry]

To clean up rust, spray the surface with WD40 or any light lubricant, even kerosene. Scrape the rust off using a razor blade. Wipe the crud off. Now cut a 4" square of Scotchbrite. Put a wire brush on a 4" right angle grinder and lay the Scotchbrite on the wire brush and polish the machine surface with the Scotchbrite. If you don't have a right angle grinder use a ROS and use a sandpaper to hold the Scotchbrite pad to the machine surface. It will only be a little slower than the right angle grinder.

I can probably clean heavy rust off a table saw faster than what it took to type this. The Scotchbrite will leave the surface in near new condition. It won't do much on stains, but that is part of a machines patina.

[21incher]

Congratulations on your  new shop. Firewood in the shop can make humidity hard to control so it may require a dehumidifier when the stove isn't  running to keep the steel shiny. A dust deputy on that new vacuum will be a much better  solution then a cyclone  lid. Just find a 30 gallon drum. For straight knife planers 4 inch hose will prevent  clogs from stringing. For helical cutters smaller hoses will work. Can't wait to see your projects.  

[SwampDonkey]

I think the MINWAX furniture wax should work fine on the machine surfaces, after all. The Johnson's I'm pretty sure has been taken off the market according to earlier posts this past winter. I have a can of the MINWAX, it's an old readily available brand up here.

[SwampDonkey]

The Festool should do the same as the dust deputy, all built into a vacuum. For a planer, you're dealing with chips, low dust. Chips pile up fast. Will figure it all out in time. 

[21incher]

I found when I had the straight knife bellsaw I was dealing with noodles and after  switching  to inserts it became chips on both the joiner and planer.  My dust  deputy with a 55 gallon  drum fills up real quick when planing. 

[SwampDonkey]

Yep, the Festool is just going to be on sawdust duty, and also will hook the hood to it for around the belt sander. Lathe will be direct off shop vac with a hood. The planer will use the lid and shop vac, the jointer I'll likely use the hood underneath, it throws chips on the underside. Used to just set a pale under the stream, got most of it.  It'll all get worked out.    The planer I always used was small square chips (straight knives), not sure what will shoot out the Dewalt yet.

[chet]

If I could offer one sugestion with your new shop before ya move everything in, it would be to paint your walls and ceiling with a lighter color paint. As the wood on yer walls and ceiling darkens it will really suck up da light. I painted the interior of my new shop and it's made a world of differance, especially on tired old eyes. 

[SwampDonkey]

Can't paint over wood, sacrilege.    There's a finish on now. Got lots of light with 6" pot lights at daylight setting. It would surprise you maybe how bright it is. They are LED, which are way better than CFL or incandescent light. No shadows. 

[chet]

I painted over drywall.   My old shop was wood walls and ceiling, started out great, but over time it really started ta git dark in there. New shop got drywall so I wouldn't feel bad about painting it.  Best move I made, that and adding a garage door like you did. 

[SwampDonkey]

I remember those old CFL's in the old shop, which was only 8' wide. Hard lights to see by and shadows, like trying to see with candles. Walls all wood. LED was the best invention to come along in awhile. Sheet rock was fine in the house with some Benjamin Moore on them, really brightens the rooms. But I couldn't do that to my wood shop. Them old timers would roll in their graves, gotta keep them quiet. These LED's are nice and bright to see by.

[SwampDonkey]

I was shopping at Uline.ca for some small storage bins, wall mount and counter top stand alone, some for hardware and nuts/bolts/washers and some a bit bigger to fit sand paper in and other larger items. Can't stand stuff laying around loose. I love shopping at Uline. :D

[SwampDonkey]

I've stacked 9 buggy loads of firewood in the shop in the last two mornings, before 6:00 am. 3 more and it will be half done. Not pushing it too hard, but feel fine. Today my Uline shelves came so I put those up. I like them, they will be some handy for screws, nails and trinkets and sand paper trays. 

I figured out the threading on my lathe for a new lock down handle. The ones that came with it are pathetic. It's a Delta, but cost reductions in manufacturing always bites the consumer who wants it well built, not compromised. Turns out it is 3/8 NC16 threading. I had one here that was 7/16", so I put the die on it to reduce it to 3/8. Fits like a glove. For awhile there I couldn't figure it out, the old one fit a 7/16, but had slop, so I knew it wasn't right, but thought maybe metric. Anyway, it's solved. 

I'm after a lift table tomorrow, to scoot in under the machine stands, lift and move without dragging. A local hardware store has them in stock.

[SwampDonkey]

I got all the wood into the shop, the last 3 buggy loads had to go under the porch for the house, no room in the shop.

I got that lift table today, got to assemble it. Also have to make a 20 A 220 extension cord for the shop. Can't buy one ready made in the hardware store. No big deal, but kinda odd.  I guess all the old farmers make their own, dad always did.

[doc henderson]

I think 12 g wire carries 20 amps if not too long, and I just get a nice cord ad change the ends.  then at least the cord is flexible.  Or buy by the foot.  I have even bought a 100-foot cord and took 20 feet off each end and made a couple 110v cords and converted the middle to 220v.

[SwampDonkey]

Yup, I got the wire and the ends today and wired up a cord. Also tried it out on the table saw, works anyway. I used a little heavier than needed maybe, but it'll do the trick. I think it's 10 gauge.

[SwampDonkey]

Here's the wood all stacked.

[SwampDonkey]

Here's my lift table to move the machines. 500 lb capacity. The handle at the bottom is a foot pump. The release is on the chrome handle, has a release cable.








The table saw is all stripped down. It has extensions, but also the Incra fence, rail and mitre system, so it's quite a huge saw when put together, ;)

[SwampDonkey]

The Uline shelving



There is a dust hood there to the right with an adjustable stand and with that 4" clear hose. Plugs into my Rigid Vac with a reducer.



That axe handle, I carved that out 40 years ago with an axe and smoothed it up some. I made 2, the other is still in service on my old axe. Hard maple. I found it, well I never really lost it, but I got my hands on it , let's say, during the move to the new shop. ;)

[SwampDonkey]

Next job is to tackle the machine top rust. 

[Hilltop366]

Looks good, that cart will be handy.