Clutch driven vs Crank drive bar oil pumps.

DHansen · March 15, 2025, 09:41:08 PM

Can a 154se or 254se be converter from crank driven to clutch driven bar oiler? Can a clutch drum, drive gear and oil pump from another model be substituted? At first when I was working on the bench with this 254se and making adjustment, tachometer reading and idling, it was an oil mess on the bench. I thought I would not like this design that was pumping bar oil at idle. But in the woods and cutting I never noticed it being excessively drippy. I'm starting to think that pumping bar oil at idle is not that big of a disadvantage. Any thoughts or inputs are appreciated.

ADDED: Looking at available clutch drums it does not look like I can convert this to a clutch driven oil pump.

DHansen · March 16, 2025, 11:57:00 AM

Another question on this oil pump design. I see in the parts diagram a protector washer #501 86 41 01 that goes between the rim sprocket and the oil pump. I have had four 154's and one 254 apart and none have this washer installed. Missing in action, never there or not necessary?

ADDED: Does it press into the oil pump on the chain side of the pump? Spiral design facing the pump?

Spike60 · March 16, 2025, 12:06:04 PM

I need to do some reading and research on my own saws before giving an intelligent answer. But, the 254 shares its crankcase, but not the crank, with the 257/262. So, there may be some options there. I'll also have a look at my newest 254 and compare to my 154's. I do recall service bulletins where saws on the pro side noted saws being updated to not oiling at idle.

The 254 also shares some parts with the 55, which oiled at idle right up to the end. Not a major deal other than it bugs me when it sits idling and then throws a load of oil when you pick it up and hit the trigger.

Spike60 · March 16, 2025, 12:31:16 PM

Ok Dave, here ya go. Service bulletin from April 1994.

"Due to environmental demands in certain countries, the drive system of the oil pump is changed to not oil at idle." Applies to 254, 257, and 262. Changes began at the end of 93.

The hitch is there was a change in the diameter of the oil gear from 19.5mm to 22mm. Therefore the casting code on the oil pump must be J, K, L or later. My guess is that converting a 254 might not be a big deal, I doubt you'd be able to convert a 154 without also installing a newer oil pump. You got enough carcasses there, so it may be that one of them is new enough that the parts are there.

DHansen · March 16, 2025, 01:06:50 PM

Thank you, Bob. Valuable information as always, you are an incredible resource of information. I have started on the next 154 since I have the 254 completed. This next one someone was drill happy and a real cobbler. Front AV mounts were drilled straight through the fuel tank front mount area section. To say straight is far from the truth. Then a 3/8" bolt with washers and double nutted through the two mounts and front of the handle/tank assembly. An extra vent hole about 1/8" in diameter drilled in the top of the fuel tank area. About 1" from the fuel line outlet hole on the fuel tank. Rim sprocket shot to the point of cracking. Goal is to see how many I can get cutting again.

Spike60 · March 16, 2025, 02:03:37 PM

Ok, pics of service bulletins sent. Would share here, but not sure about dropping a pic from my phone. How to do it or even if it's within the site guidelines. Either way, glad to share. The amount of info in what Husky calls "service documents" is incredible. I printed out a 3" binders worth before I retired, but it's only a fraction of whats there. I don't know if that stuff is available to non dealers or not. I loaded up on a lot of the classic 2xx series models. The 3xx series is mostly all in my head anyway, so I didn't print much of that. On the Jonsered side, I'm lucky to have accumulated a lot of printed docs on the older models that preceded us becoming a dealer from dealers who were retiring. Every brand has changes like these that are well documented in their service libraries. Without it, you are imo, working in the dark.

DHansen · March 16, 2025, 02:18:12 PM

I can post the bulletin here if that's okay, being so old I don't think copy right is an issue. I'll ask Jeff.

Spike60 · March 16, 2025, 02:24:52 PM

It's not a copyright deal. There are pic rules that I ran afoul of a few years back. But checking with Jeff is the thing to do.

DHansen · March 16, 2025, 04:13:14 PM

Spike60 · March 17, 2025, 09:32:54 AM

That's great to share them with everyone. Did you have to get an OK from Jeff?

The changes that take place over the years that a given model is on the market can cause some head scratching when doing projects like this. Especially when something from one saw doesn't fit another of the same model from a different year.

Also helps to avoid ordering the wrong part for a saw on the bench, which we've all done at some point.

DHansen · March 17, 2025, 12:12:08 PM

I did get a thumbs up before posting. Thank you for sharing the data that I would have never found. So far I only have oil pumps with an "A" reference stamp. Still have two more to inspect. I have metal and plastic oil pumps.

CJ154SG · March 17, 2025, 07:07:23 PM

Hi DHansen,

I have converted both a 154SE and a pre-3450001 254SE to clutch-driven oiling (I scored some 257 parts saws to rob from). Both required the newer 22.5mm bore oil pump along with the worm gear (503 55 78-01) and newer 4-lug clutch drums (503 64 66-03; 3/8-pitch; the worm gear is included) or (503 64 66-04; 0.325"-pitch; worm gear not included) mentioned in the SBs that Spike60 sent. Removal of the old-style pump gear with a puller is required first. Then, it's just a matter of swapping in the new pump, worm gear, and clutch drum, making sure that the lugs on the drum engage the slots in the worm gear.

The Oregon part numbers for the newer drums are 100757 for the 3/8, and 100758X for the 0.325. They can sometimes be easier to find than OEM (Oregon made them for Husky anyways, at the time).

If you don't have any of the newer parts in your parts collection currently, I wouldn't sweat it. While it is nice and convenient to have on-demand oiling, it definitely isn't a dealbreaker, especially in the woods.

Best regards,

CJ154SG

DHansen · March 17, 2025, 07:11:08 PM

Thank you CJ for the added information and numbers. Much appreciated.

CJ154SG · March 17, 2025, 07:18:41 PM

Anytime. Nice to see your builds and progress. I'm not at all biased when it comes to these saws

DHansen · March 22, 2025, 10:42:31 AM

In the parts diagrams they show a spiraled disc washer. Meant to fling the wood chips and sawdust out and away from the oil pump and crankshaft. The washer goes outboard of the oil pump, and before the clutch hub support bearing. Between oil pump and clutch drum. I have yet to find one on any of my 154's or 254. Are these pressed onto the oil pump or are the loose fitting and can be lifted off with a small pick of flat blade screwdriver?

CJ154SG · March 23, 2025, 11:39:27 AM

You should be able to work it off with a small pick or screwdriver. If you can work it from opposite sides at the same time, it may come a bit easier. Not a press fit, but they can get a bit sticky over time. Hope that helps.

DHansen · March 23, 2025, 12:02:54 PM

CJ, that did work thank you. I had thought I was missing that washer on all these saws. Now I know better. Should have one more 154SE cutting today. Then I will start on the next one. Running low on good top covers and good operational clutch brakes. But I have spare parts and will fix some of the clutch brakes and clutch covers.