Parts saw project 154SE/254SE

[DHansen]

I have left over spare parts and junk saws.  Some garbage finds and some garage sale stuff.  Any reason to try and put together a 254SE over putting together a 154SE.  The 254SE is the small square decal on the recoil cover.

[DHansen]

The 254SE is from 1989, Three 154SE's from 1984 and one 154SE from 1986.  Clutch brake issues, muffler failures, no spark on one.  Pistons all look good through the exhaust ports. Was going to start with compression test and vacuum test to see if it eliminates any of the blocks. 

ADDED:  254SE is 1987 by tag number.  Was mislead by the top cover being from a different saw that had a 1989 Husqvarna anniversary sticker on it.

[DHansen]

[Spike60]

Look at all those projects! Don't stop now. 

[DHansen]

I made the decision to attempt to get the 254SE up and running.  It has a two shoe clutch.  The threads on the crankshaft were damaged and the clutch did not thread on completely.  Resulting in a worn clutch.  Both shoes have a major wear ring on the outer edge.  I repaired the damaged threads on crankshaft (left hand threads) and now the clutch threads on all the way on.  Rim sprocket was shot.  Took off a 7 pin and putting on a .325 8 pin. Intake collar was cracked (replacing).  Replacing fuel line and filter.  Repaired one recoil cover screw hole that had the wrong thread pitch screw jammed  into it.  Work in progress.  Passed vacuum and pressure testing.



Worn shoes on clutch.  Going to file down the ridge and reuse this clutch assembly.



After filing off the ridge.

[DHansen]

Filed down the ridge on the clutch shoes.  Will reuse this old one.  If needed I do have a new OEM two shoe clutch I can install.  Plus about 5 used clutches that came off 154 models.

[DHansen]

About the clutch, I measured the outside diameter of the worn clutch that I filed down to remove the ridge.  I also measured four other 154 clutch outside diameter of the shoes.  The clutches are not identical in design, but all of the "good" clutches measured 2.62" or 2.63"  The one I had to file down measured 2.481" after removing the ridge.   My thoughts are as long as it engages and cuts wood without slipping, just use it and who cares.  But my mind it telling be the engagement RPM will be higher on the clutch with the smaller diameter. 

ADDED:  There is also less weight on each shoe with the metal removed.  So will need more RPM to overcome the spring tension.

[DHansen]

In this photo you can see the aluminum exhaust heat shield (part#503 74 85-01).  It goes between the cylinder head and the muffler.  I have one completed 154SE with this shield.  Four others, 154's, without and a 254SE without.  I can get these shields and wonder if they are an improvement or detriment to removing heat from the saw?   

Just in case someone needs it, the part number for the rubber button that sits on top of the cylinder head is 501 51 54 01.  It keeps the plastic top cover up and away from the heat of the muffler.

[Spike60]

Those air conductors control air flow from the flywheel to assist cooling. Most of them were introduced/announced with a service bulletin. Definitely better to use them. 

[DHansen]

Thanks for the information Bob.  I found two more new "air conductors" heat shields today, seems to be two different designs, but they both fit on the 154/254 saws that I have.   A chip deflector for the clutch cover and an old school oil cap.  Hope to be during some cutting and test running with this 254SE in two or three days. 

[DHansen]

Any preference to the AV mounts?  There are two types that I can still find available.  Soft vs Hard mounts.  I have four of the soft mounts on hand and was just going to use those.  The mount that sits right below the oil cap was swollen and in very poor condition.  The two near the rear handle and higher up were still in usable condition.  I'll save those two for spare parts.  I cleaned out the fuel tank, found plastic and foil inside the tank.  Old fuel line was cracked between filter and carb.  One large crack right after the filter.  Obviously large enough to draw in unfiltered fuel. 



Part number for the four AV mounts 501 86 70 02
Part number for the two rubber buffers (front lower sides)501 86 03 01

Comparing the old AV mounts and the Buffers, the years, oil and the fuel mix have softened and swollen them.  I first thought I had the wrong parts due to the size of the new rubber buffers but quickly learned otherwise.

[DHansen]

Do the letters that are stamped on the top of the cylinder head match the letter for the corresponding piston?

[DHansen]

254SE is all together, running and adjusted.  13500 WOT no load.  It pumps bar oil at idle.  Will cut with it with this style oil pump for the summer and then decide if I switch it over to a clutch driven oil pump updated version.  The saw is a 1987, but the top cover is from a 1989 model.  It has an Anniversary sticker on the cover.  I think I'll just remove the sticker.  The clutch does work and does not slip during cutting, but there is a large gap between the clutch shoe and drum.  Saw looks to have had a rough life.  Two cracks in the case which are not affecting performance.


You can see the gap between shoe and drum.

[DHansen]

A completed 254SE.  I'm still going to look into converting it to a clutch driven bar oil pump system.  I see the clutch drum is different I suspect the pump will be different also.  I see there are plastic and metal crankshaft driven bar oil pumps.  I did have to drill, tap and install treaded insert on the holes where the wrong size screws had been installed.  Getting to the 13500 RPM and nice base idle of 2900.

[DHansen]

Very happy with the 254SE performance.  The difference in the smaller clutch diameter had no adverse effect on the saw being able to cut.  Clutch did not slip even during very heavy use cutting red oak and ash in bar length cuts.

[DHansen]

The next one I started working on is a 1986 154SE.  after cleaning things up I found the nylon fuel inlet elbow at the carburetor has a small crack.  Photo of the crack.  Can this small nylon elbow be transferred from another carb, Or should I just switch to a different carburetor.  This carb is a Walbro 35B.  I'm thinking it is off a 254SE, but do not know for sure.  I have an HDA17A that I could use.  Would prefer to fix this one.  Should I attempt a fuel resistant epoxy? If it's not leaking fuel, could it still be sucking in air at that point?  Would it matter as long as it's not a fuel leak?

[donbj]

I've had a few carbs with that type of crack on the nylon elbow. Fortunately I have had other carbs I could rob a good one off and pop it on and replace. I would imagine it would suck air rather than leak fuel when in operation as it's under suction not pressure. Could bleed off some fuel in line when sitting I'd think. It may be fine too, who knows, depends if the seal between that and the metal barb is compromised yet as that is inside close to the end of the crack.

[Spike60]

Epoxy trick should work, or another inlet from a known bad carb like Don said. I wouldn't pull one from a good carb, as you may be getting that whole pile of saws running and need them all! 

[DHansen]

This two part Glue/Plastic/Epoxy stuff worked well.  First bottle is a powder like plastic sugar.  The second bottle is a liquid that melts and bonds the powder.  I also used this to repair the air fins on the recoil cover.  

[Spike60]

Wow. I never heard of that stuff. Be looking for it now. 

[DHansen]

With the plastic fins I put the powder into the cracks, used nylon zip tie to draw it together, then put the liquid on that was absorbed and pulled into the powder that was between the plastic and in the crack.  As it suck the liquid in it reminds me of solder flowing into the copper strand of wire.  I have fixed broken key FOB's with it also, powder is available in different colors.  I have black and white, use to have grey.  Same liquid on all three colors.  I have seen other brands.  One brand that I have used was Q-Bond the other is RapidFix. 

A sponsor here is Bluecreeper and that is also a great product and a little goes along way.  Helps on those neglected metal to metal fasteners that have corrosion and rust.  Clutch hubs and flywheels that are stubborn.



A small plug!

[DHansen]

This poor 154SE had a rough life.  Someone's idea of a better AV repair.  Drilled hole straight through the tank/handle assembly.  Then force a bolt through and tighten the h377 out of it.   



And why not just drill an extra hole in the top of the fuel tank.  Poor old girl. 

[DHansen]

AV mounts are repaired (new mounts and new screws), aluminum air conductor modified and installed, new fuel line and filter. Cleaned out the fuel tank.  Fuel elbow at carburetor is not leaking.  Chain catch , part # 501 87 38-02, installed. 

[Al_Smith]

About those nylon ell fittings I supose you could find them some place,exactly where I have no idea .What few cracked ones I've done hap hazard repairs smearing number 2 Permatex around them .Not pretty but so far it seems to work .
Thinking further they do make about a zillion fittings in metal and nylon threaded on one end with a barb on the other that probabley could be adapted to work .McMaster-Carr might have them.

[DHansen]

Wrapping this one up.  Two completed out of that pile.  A 254SE and now this 154SE.  I put the .325 - .050" 16"  hardnosed bar on it to use up the bar.  The two total bars I got a few years back very cheap.  So might as well make use of them.  Was running it without the top cover to keep an eye on exhaust leaks and how that air conductor was working.