Help me decide on the right chainsaw - looking at Stihl MS261 C-M or...?

[BufordT]

**UPDATE in post #9**

The situation is this:

I currently have two Stihl models, MS180 (lightly used) and MS291 (never used).

I use the relatively light 180 (8.6 lbs) to do infrequent work on downed trees on forested walking trails in a local park.  I figured the 291 would get heavy fast (12.3 lbs), so I bought the 180 and have never used the 291.

I've found the 180 adequate, but in the course of cutting up a fallen tree and its canopy last year I felt I could have used more power/taken less time cutting - so I started doing research here and elsewhere and came upon the MS261 C-M (10.1 lbs, $700/20 inch bar).

Today I went to the dealership and compared the feel of my 180 to the 261.  The 261 is a heavier (1.5 lbs > the 180) and bulkier saw, but not as heavy as my 291 (3.7 lbs > the 180).

I like the idea of the magnesium case and the electronic carburetor (or whatever it's called).  However, my son (who is somewhat of a chainsaw maven) tells me that even though the 261 is only slightly heavier than the 180, I won't want to hike for any distance carrying it - and that I'll probably end up defaulting to the 180 even when the 261 could make much faster work of the task at hand.

The dealer suggested some other intermediate models, which I believe were all less expensive than the 261, but were also heavier - so as far as I'm concerned, there'd be nothing gained by going that route.

I've drooled over the top handle squarish model (don't know the number), a lightweight tree climber's saw, for years - but I imagine it's not much more powerful than the 180, and is even more expensive than the 261.

Two questions/requests:

1) I'm very open to suggestions as to what models I should consider besides the 261, considering that I consider weight and power (hp and chain size) to be key elements, and I offer a big THANK YOU KINDLY in advance.

2) I saw YouTube video of a volunteer in North Carolina (I think) after the storm last year carrying his chainsaw to isolated communities with some kind of a body sling.  I thought "Hey, that might work well for me in the forest!", but have no idea what it was or how applicable it might be to carrying a saw that's the size of the 261.  Any information or comments about that subject would also be greatly appreciated.

Again, thanks in advance for your input/comments!   

[thecfarm]

Your age would help out some.
I am 63 and even at 50 I like a 50cc saw compared to a 70.
Yes the big saw will cut faster then the small saw, but the big saw is heavier and wears me out quicker.
The small saw cuts slower but i can work longer and get more done.
I have a big and a small saw and I use the small one more.

[beenthere]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

The MS261 is my go-to saw, but the MS362 is handy for larger trees. At 86, I don't saw as much as I used to, but both saws work well for me.

[Old Greenhorn]

Not sure what 'chainsaw sling' yo saw, but if you are looking for a way to carry a chainsaw on the trail you want to search for "wildland chainsaw pack" or something like that. True North makes a nice one that many firefighters use and auxiliary pockets for tools, food, and shelter. They run $250 to $300 or so, but are good rigs. True North makes a lot of products that may interest you for your work.

[doc henderson]

the suspenders have a leather pad to add to your shoulder, and you can sling the bar over your shoulder and carry it easily.  the 261 is well balanced and cuts well.  the pro-saw will take a beating.  can you trade the 291 in or, use it more, so you develop the strength and habits to make it not so cumbersome?  How often and how much are you cutting.  if bucking logs, the weight can rest on the log and let it do the work for you.

[DDW_OR]

The situation is this:

.......1) I'm very open to suggestions as to what models I should consider besides the 261, considering that I consider weight and power (hp and chain size) to be key elements, and I offer a big THANK YOU KINDLY in advance.

my 2 cents
Echo 310, about $220 to $260 at home depot
it comes with a 14 inch bar. I put a 16 inch with no power loss.
a SHARP chain will make any saw work better.
dry weight 8.8 pounds
30.5 cc

it is my primary saw = 80%
an old husqvarna 45 = 15%
even older jonsered 81 = 5%, no compression release or chain brake

[barbender]

I had a 261cm (the auto compensating carb version). It is a great saw, I never got a hiccup out of it in about 5 years of use. 

However, with your focus on light weight I think Stihl also makes a 241 that is a pro saw. Might be worth a look if you can find one.

I've tried the PNW bar over the shoulder method a couple of times. I kept telling myself "other people are doing it" but I couldn't help having alarm bells going off telling me that it wasn't a good idea to have a sharpened chain right next to my neck. I don't carry bandsaw blades looped over my shoulder, either😁

[Magicman]

My MS170 was a very reliable saw, but it simply did not have the "grunt" that I needed so I got an MS261 with an 18" bar several years ago.  My MS362 does not get nearly the use that it once did. 

I 100% recommend the MS261.

[Spike60]

In Husky land the 543XP would be worth a look, along with the above mentioned Echo 310. However I generally think guys should stick with the brand and dealer they are used to unless they give you a reason to look elsewhere. Different brand saws don't always feel right as each company has slightly different handle angles and placement. After 30+ years of Huskys and Jonnys, Stihls never feel right to me. Perhaps the rear handle angle?

Seems clear that weight is the most important variable for you. And regardless of printed numbers, as soon as you pick up a saw, your brain is instantly sending you a message about how it feels. A little heavy, or feels pretty good. 

Bar length can make a big difference in how a saw feels weight wise, as it changes the balance. The 261 is a nice saw, and may be where you'd like to be power wise. But, I'd guess that they are most often set up with 20" bars and chains. Ask the dealer if you could see how it feels set up with a 16". It will feel less nose heavy than the 20. Never know; it might do the trick for you. 

[BufordT]

**UPDATE**

I read the various responses last night (thanks VERY much) and this morning I went down to the Stihl dealer again.

I asked if there were any other models he was aware of that used a wider chain, had more power than the 180 and weighed less than the 261.  He said he wasn't aware of any, except the squarish, $$$, tree climber's saws - so at least in the Stihl line the 261 seems to be the sweet spot.

He said I could get an 18" bar instead of a 20", but the difference in weight between the two would be almost unnoticeable.

I will look into the MS241 based on a suggestion in this thread, but if I don't go that route, it seems the 261 (if I make the purchase) is an exceptional choice.

THANKS AGAIN for all the input!  Greatly, greatly appreciated!


*Questions answered/clarifications*

- I'm over 65

- The "forested walking trails" are more accurately described as HIKING trails, and I've had to walk 1/2 mile or more, one-way, on a trail, to get to a downed tree

- "Chainsaw sling" - thanks for the pack suggestion!  It's overkill for me, but really good to know.  I wasn't able to find the Youtube video that I saw the sling in, but there's at least one sling in the marketplace.  Not sure what or if I'll make a purchase.

- The leather shoulder pad is a great idea, but given the unevenness of the trail, I'd likely decaptitate myself!

- Best I can tell (they keep it well hidden, it seems), the Echo 310 has 1.8hp - less than my MS180, and about the same weight as the 180.  Thank you for the suggestion.

- I'd never heard of the 241, but YES, it seems a dam shame they don't sell it in the US anymore.  It seems like it would have been THE perfect saw for my circumstances.  I might see if I can find a used one.

- I appreciate the Husqvarna 543XP suggestion. It's less expensive and less powerful, but intriguing nonetheless.  I think your point about manufacturer familiarity is a good one, however, especially since the new saw I buy is going to be a "traveling" saw, not one taken from a vehicle of some type and used a few feet away.  Regardless, thanks.

[Old Greenhorn]

**UPDATE**
........
I asked if there were any other models he was aware of that used a wider chain, had more power than the 180 and weighed less than the 261.

Why would you want a wider chain? If anything you want the thinnest chain that is practical for your saw and bar. Wider chains need more horsepower to cut because they take more material out. Thinner is the opposite. The real key is having developed very good sharpening skills rather than focus on all this other stuff. I think you are splitting hairs and looking for something that doesn't exist. The MS201T you are drooling over uses a low profile chain. The weight you are worried about won't be nearly as bad as you may think when carried in a proper packing rig. 
 Just some alternative thoughts for you to consider.

[CJ154SG]

If you are able to get one in your hands to see how it feels, you might try an ECHO CS-4310SX (aka Shindaiwa 431sx). Professional-level 43cc saw; 3 HP; 9.4 lbs. A lot more power than your MS 180, with a bit more weight, together with much higher build quality. Not as powerful as a 261, but still plenty for the type of work you describe. Not to be confused with the ECHO CS-4510 45cc consumer saw that is heavier and no more powerful.

[doc henderson]

I know you may be arriving or there on a decision, but...  the first saw I got my son is an ms250 with easy start.  it has a 16-inch bar and has easy start so 3 slow pull winds a spring that releases and turns over the engine.  I am 64 and the 261 is the lightest saw I use even around the yard. then I go to an 046, then 880.  I love the 261 but have had the module changed once.  I use it more than every other saw.  maybe get the 880 and saw with it then the 291 will seem light.  lots of choices.  good luck with your decidion.  what size range of tree are you commonly bucking up?  thanks for helping take care of the park.

[BufordT]

**UPDATE**
........
I asked if there were any other models he was aware of that used a wider chain, had more power than the 180 and weighed less than the 261.

Why would you want a wider chain? If anything you want the thinnest chain that is practical for your saw and bar. Wider chains need more horsepower to cut because they take more material out. Thinner is the opposite. The real key is having developed very good sharpening skills rather than focus on all this other stuff. I think you are splitting hairs and looking for something that doesn't exist. The MS201T you are drooling over uses a low profile chain. The weight you are worried about won't be nearly as bad as you may think when carried in a proper packing rig.
 Just some alternative thoughts for you to consider.

I appreciate your input. I didn't appreciate the nuances of chain thickness/saw power.

If I were a heavy chainsaw user I would undoubtedly focus less on splitting hairs because I'd have more knowledge & experience - but as it is I've just tried to assess things/handle the tasks at hand using my admittedly basic knowledge.

Thanks for helping my education!

[BufordT]

If you are able to get one in your hands to see how it feels, you might try an ECHO CS-4310SX (aka Shindaiwa 431sx). Professional-level 43cc saw; 3 HP; 9.4 lbs. A lot more power than your MS 180, with a bit more weight, together with much higher build quality. Not as powerful as a 261, but still plenty for the type of work you describe. Not to be confused with the ECHO CS-4510 45cc consumer saw that is heavier and no more powerful.

It looks like a cool saw, but it doesn't seem to be available in the US.

Also, why is it that Echo seems to treat horsepower figures like top secret info?

[BufordT]

I know you may be arriving or there on a decision, but...  the first saw I got my son is an ms250 with easy start.  it has a 16-inch bar and has easy start so 3 slow pull winds a spring that releases and turns over the engine.  I am 64 and the 261 is the lightest saw I use even around the yard. then I go to an 046, then 880.  I love the 261 but have had the module changed once.  I use it more than every other saw.  maybe get the 880 and saw with it then the 291 will seem light.  lots of choices.  good luck with your decidion.  what size range of tree are you commonly bucking up? ...

Thanks for the info & background.

As for size, generally the diameter of what I've cut ranges from 4 inches to 20 inches.

... thanks for helping take care of the park.

Thanks! I enjoy it and it allows me to use the trails without unnecessary obstacles.

[JD Guy]

Following along for the new saw reveal
As I've aged and along with back and shoulder issues I'm in a similar situation. Although my main saws for years were Husky 40 16" B&C and a Stihl MS 290 with a 20" B&C. Both had .325 chain. I also have a MS 250 with18" ..325 and a MS 400 with 25" .375.

Ironically what I've used the most recently is a Husky 435 XP with 16" and .325. It belongs to my son who brought it almost new for a steal and has another one too. Due to some of the aforementioned "infirmities" lighter has become mo betta except when felling or bucking logs.😁

[Spike60]

Good discussion here. Nobody is stepping on anyone's toes. But there's a goofball or 2 who could still show up.

To clarify my point on shorter bars; scale weight difference is negligible, as your dealer pointed out. My point was about balance/feel weight. Big difference between a 20 and a 16. And such differences are all the more noticeable on yhe 50c c class saws we are discussing.

But I may be off target myself here, because I'm not sure if we are talking carry weight or working weight. Carry Weight 4 inches in bar length won't be noticeable. But you'll certainly notice it when working. 16" should cover what you'll run into if you've been doing this work with a 180. 261-16" might be a package you'll never want to set down.

[Spike60]

I'll tell ya one saw you do NOT want on this list. The Jonsered 930Super I just tuned up. Love it on the firewood pile, but if I had to tote this saw a couple miles through the woods doing trail work........let's just say your point is becoming clearer. 

[DHansen]

For me, after I'm cutting for 3-4 hours I can really start to notice the weight of the saw package.  And if the saw is nose heavy it makes it even more noticeable.  I have options so I can go smaller, but to be honest a pound less in weight doesn't seem to make a big difference once you start feeling the strain in your forearms.  All part of getting older.  I think a 261 Stihl with a 16" bar is a good set up.  I myself would go with the 550XP, but that is only personal preference. I have two friends with 261 Stihl chainsaws and both are very happy with performance.  And for the diameters that you listed I think a good match for you.  I value performance and reliability over weight.

[trapper]

If you could find one the 241 is the perfect saw for me.  It is my go to saw unless  I need a longer bar,

[barbender]

My 261 was set up with a 16" bar. It balanced nicely. I'm used to an 18" bar on that size of saw, but I wanted to try one with a shorter bar. The 16" felt "right" in that saw.

[ArkansasOaks]

Can't comment on that size Stihl but could you put a 16" Stihl Lightweight bar on it and help even a little more? I second that the extra length on the end makes a difference 

[hedgerow]

I am a little late to the party. Its been planting season. After a couple shoulders surgery's I needed a lighter saw than my 461 for brushing and bucking firewood. I bought a CM 261 and 16 inch bar. Myself and my two firewood helpers which all of us are over 60 really liked the lighter saw and I think it balances better with the 16 inch bar. I liked it so well I bought another 261 this one is non CM. I like both the same and both wear a 16 inch bar. If I need a 20 inch bar or bigger the 461 and 660 are in the saw trailer ready to go.  

[Al_Smith]

Everybody has an opinion and some are brand loyal .As far as the 3 cubers my favorite is the Partner 5000 plus .It was so good they stopped making them about 40 years ago ,go figure .I realize restoration is not everybodies cup of tea so to speak but it is mine .
Three  cubers I call the Jack Russel terriers of the chainsaw world. Light weight usually have enough power for the job unless you are attempting to drop a 3-4 foot diameter oak tree .Then it would just take a little longer .In reality a 3 cuber for the average  fire wood cutter would be all you need .