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Nyle L200 for firewood

Started by jimbarry, November 06, 2023, 08:34:25 PM

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jimbarry

We're still running our kiln with firewood.



 

Currently averaging 4-5 days for a 2 cord batch.
Thinking out loud here... :)

I've been wondering lately about alternative heating methods. To speed up the heating cycle to bring up the thermal mass to about 50ºC (120-125ºF) or higher. Not much in the way of used wood furnace units around here. In a local classified ad there's a portable diesel heater for sale. Similar to this IDH500QR. It got me thinking about how it might be an alternative to boosting the heating part of the process. The input to that portable heater would be on the dehumidifier side of the tarp (neg pressure side?), and the output end of the heater would go into the other side of the tarp.  Any thoughts on that?

Another separate idea I had was to take that dehumidifier and built into the wall of the kiln bldg, basically build an insulated "bump out" on the side of the kiln to place the dehumidifer unit. The thought behind doing this is to provide a bit more room for loading the crates. It's really tight as it is now, and it takes an extra 15-20 min of fussing, getting the crates tight together so that they fit in through the door. I'd like the crates to be not so tight together to allow a little bit of extra room for improved air flow. The bump out would be well insulated, with an access door to the compressor side (in case access is needed). The top of the bump out would have a curved piece of metal, something like a 90º corner duct from a used cold air return (or similar).  
A second reason to move the unit to a bump out in the wall would be to maybe allow the kiln to run at higher temps without having to worry about tripping the compressor? Would the higher temps dry the wood faster? Fool hardy idea maybe, I dunno. I could design the bump out in a way that would allow that side of the unit that holds the compressor to avoid overheating and tripping the compressor. @KILNGUY  Stan, what do you think?


K-Guy


The "bump out idea" isn't new but it reduces airflow from the the unit and therefore efficiency. I do not recommend it. And no there is no good way around it.
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

TaylorMade

Im having a problem with my homemade kiln, when the temp gets over 110 degrees my dehumidifier kicks off, any suggestions?

doc henderson

I agree and Stan is a sharp cookie.   But I think firewood is a different animal and dried fast starting at high humidity and stopping, (correct me if I am wrong), at higher humidity than furniture grade stuff.  I think if you design a bump out with fans and possibly ducting or directable fins to distribute the dry air coming back in, you should be good.  You do not want a dead air space in the bump out, and the humidity should follow a concentration gradient, and it will all be much better than air dried.  You just need to max out the compressor for those days, and the circulating air will pick up faster from the more wet/humid areas.  Nyle is first class and so is Stan, but for this application, I think I would give it a try.  maybe make the bump out sides and top at a 45-degree angle.  You could put a guard in front of the kiln to protect it from wood sliding in.  You are very close as is, and the kilns are not getting cheaper.  I wish I had one.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

doc henderson

YM if it is homeowner version, they have a high temp cut off that may be that low.  I have a Walmart one, that works in a container.  it is more for the final few % humidity and to maintain, and I do not strive to get it hot.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

doc henderson

Also, Jim, any petrol that is burned for heat, uses the equation Carbon plus O2 releases heat, carbon dioxide and water.  So direct fired into the kiln, adds water.  a heat exchanger would help.  even heating water to go through the heat exchanger like a radiator or a diesel heater with an exhaust out the top, and heat in the kiln.  or a separate pre-heat building with a wood stove inside and a proper chimney...  a ways from your house. ffsmiley
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

K-Guy


The best I've seen for adding heat to a L200 kiln is using a wood boiler to add hot water heat. Safe and easily controllable.
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

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