Non toxic bug killer

[steve104c]

Have a pallet of hickory sticks. Finding pin holes and piles of dust. Need non toxic killer. Thanks, Steve.

[doc henderson]

heat.  take up to 150 overnight to get 133 internal temp.

[Ianab]

Problem with chemical bug treatments is the bugs are now embedded in the wood. Getting any poison to them now isn't practical.  Borax / Borate is a useful bug killer, and not very toxic, but for home use you can only really surface treat your boards. This is still useful to discourage bugs from moving in, because they will lay their eggs near the surface. The new grub then gets a first feed of tainted with borate and dies. Borate is very toxic to insects, but not very dangerous to humans and other mammals. It's sold as a household cleaner, so that level of hazard. 

Commercially wood can be pressure treated with borate and that penetrates deeper into the wood, and so is better protection. 

That leaves Doc's heat suggestion, basically what a drying kiln often does at the end of it's drying cycle. Heats the now dry wood up over 133F, so any bugs lurking in there are toasted. You could then surface treat the wood with borax (spray or dip) to discourage any bugs from returning. 

[doc henderson]

You could build a temporary (cheap one time) heat treat box.  How big is the pallet?  what is the current moisture content?

[doc henderson]

You can use a moisture meter but may be hard to find a flat surface.  can cut and end.  You can also use an oven to dry with weight before and after.  If you are using mortice and tenon joints, you will want the stock dry, so it does not shrink later and loosen the joints.  I am an ED doc, and also EMS, Fire, Search and rescue medical director.  I see you are fire and EMT.

[caveman]

Years ago, we built a temporary box to sterilize one mantle sized piece of wood.  We used 2x12's we took off of a trailer deck, a flood light bulb in a clamp on light fixture and some 2" foam.  We screwed the pile of plunder together and plugged the light in for a couple of days.  It killed the termites that were in the sapwood of the 5" thick cedar mantle.

Later, we built a "hotbox" that is big enough to treat a 42"x 96" x 48" pallet of lumber.  It works well, but would be too much trouble to build to do one pallet of sticks.

[scsmith42]

Steve, in terms of non-toxic treatments, as Doc mentioned heat is the best.  USDA specs call for heating all portions of the lumber to 133F and holding it there for 30 minutes.

Or,  you can soak it in a boric acid based solution.  Boracare is made for already dry lumber, and Timbor for green or partially dried lumber.

15 years ago Fine Woodworking Magazine had an article about a simple home made sterilization chamber that utilized foil backed foam board (Celotex?), sawhorses, duct take, a bbq thermometer and a space heater.  IF you send me a PM I'll send you a copy of that article.

Scott

[doc henderson]

If this is the only stuff to sterilize, you can buy dryer generic heat element parts for about 26 bucks

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[steve104c]

Caveman,

  I have a steam box. Do you think if I steam the sticks, about 8 @ a time, will it kill the infestation and how long should I steam them? Steve

[caveman]

There are many here more knowledgeable than me, but I'd assume that if you had the sticks hot enough for long enough, then the bugs would die.  It has been stated that 133F for 30 minutes is the acceptable temperature and duration for sterilization.  I've never read or heard that the heat had to be dry heat.  Boiled beetles would likely be just as dead as crunchy ones.

Someone will correct me soon if I'm wrong.

[doc henderson]

Steam is hot at 212 degrees or 100 if you are a Celsius guy.  you need the internal temp of the sticks to get to 133 for 30 minutes.  steam condensing to water releases more heat.  the wood may also take on water and swell, so it may need to dry after.  If you had a good source of heat, but if not, there is little advantage of steam over dry heat.  tenons should be dry so they do not continue to shrink and make a loose joint.

[doc henderson]

they could go into an oven.  I have a hospital blanket and fluid warmer that goes to 160 degrees.  It works for smaller stuff.  @Larry puts his chair parts for tenons in hot sand to specifically dry the tenon end.