Harvesting Katrina Damage...Newbie looking for advice

[mrigney]

Hi all...great forum!

I am from Mississippi, and all of my family were very lucky to receive very little house damage during the Katrina hurricane.  However, my dad's land was devastated in several places.  He has about 30 acres total, and we just walked it all last week.  We have 250+ harvestable logs that are down, 99% uprooted.  Our current plan is to mill ourselves and sell 50-70%.  I have some questions about harvesting the trees.

1.  We can't get my brother's mill on site for 2-3 months maybe longer (paying customers first), so what is the best way for me to preserve the trees?  I know I can leave those that are still showing green in the crown; however, I can't tell for most species since it is winter.  Should I leave all of them as is, or cut-limb-stack the logs asap?

2.  We have a two smaller tractors.  We have always used the boom on the back with a set of tongs to pull the logs.  I am well aware of the danger with roll-over associated with this practice...been very lucky so far.  Our land is pretty flat, by the way.  Any suggestions for an "inexpensive" change to this procedure?

3.  Which types of trees are most prone to damage?  We have Red Oak, White Oak, Hickory, Maple, Pecan, Cherry, Poplar, Cedar and Magnolia off the top of my head.

4.  Is Sweet Bay Magnolia usable in any way?  Very soft tree just like regular Magnolia.  We use Magnolia for inlay/accent work, etc.  I planned on burning these, but thought I would ask if they had any use.

Thanks for your input,

Mark

PS - Getting/selling to a logger or outside mill is out of the question.  The prices are severely depressed due to the large volume of downed trees. 

[Engineer]

1. Cut-limb-stack, get yourself a couple buckets of Anchorseal log-end-sealer and use it.  Your logs, if sealed, and up off the ground, will be OK.

2. Sounds good to me, or maybe find a logging winch for a 3-pt hitch and use that.

3. Damage as in rot or stain?  I'd say the trees least likely to be a problem for long-term storage will be white oak, cedar and cherry in that order.   Maple will be OK but tends to stain if not sawn and dried quickly.  Poplar will rot if you look at it funny.  Red oak doesn't have the rot resistance of the white oak but should be OK if you have to wait a few months to saw.   Hickory/pecan more or less same tree in terms of lumber, it will rot fast if left on the ground, will start growing mushrooms and get really punky.   Don't know a thing about magnolia, sorry.

4.  Again - no idea on magnolia, you might have a market for it like we do for basswood up here in the north.

[mrigney]

Hi all...This is a repost from the Forestry and Logging Forum...

You don't have to repost here.  We all read the whole forum. 

I am from Mississippi, and all of my family were very lucky to receive very little house damage during the Katrina hurricane.  However, my dad's land was devastated in several places.  He has about 30 acres total, and we just walked it all last week.  We have 250+ harvestable logs that are down, 99% uprooted.  Our current plan is to mill ourselves and sell 50-70%.  I have some questions about harvesting the trees.

1.  We can't get my brother's mill on site for 2-3 months maybe longer (paying customers first), so what is the best way for me to preserve the trees?  I know I can leave those that are still showing green in the crown; however, I can't tell for most species since it is winter.  Should I leave all of them as is, or cut-limb-stack the logs asap?

2.  We have a two smaller tractors.  We have always used the boom on the back with a set of tongs to pull the logs.  I am well aware of the danger with roll-over associated with this practice...been very lucky so far.  Our land is pretty flat, by the way.  Any suggestions for an "inexpensive" change to this procedure?

3.  Which types of trees are most prone to damage?  We have Red Oak, White Oak, Hickory, Maple, Pecan, Cherry, Poplar, Cedar and Magnolia off the top of my head.

4.  Is Sweet Bay Magnolia usable in any way?  Very soft tree just like regular Magnolia.  We use Magnolia for inlay/accent work, etc.  I planned on burning these, but thought I would ask if they had any use.

5.  Is there anything special to watch for when cutting an uprooted tree? 

Thanks for your input,

Mark

PS - Getting/selling to a logger or outside mill is out of the question.  The prices are severely depressed due to the large volume of downed trees. 

[Tom]

If it's still hooked to the ground, I'd leave it till the sawmill arrives.   They store real good on the stump. ;D

Those that must obviously be taken should be cut in the longest lengths that you can handle and seal the ends as well as any limb cuts or bark damage.  Preferably use a commercial sealer.

When the mill arrives, buck these logs to marketable length, reseal and saw.

Submerging the logs is the best way to keep bugs out and stop mildew, stain, etc.  If you can't submerge them then  insecticides will help to keep the adult borers from doing too much damage.  Sprinkling pine continuously will do almost as good as submerging.  Sprinkling hardwoods may be beneficial too, but, I'm not familiar with them as much as the softwoods.


Lots of people "skid" with a boom behind a tractor.  You're right, it can be dangerous.  You can minimize the threat of rollover by hooking a chain to the log and to the draw-bar.  Pulling on this chain and using the boom only to lift the log a little to  put some weight on the rear tires, will be safer than pulling with the boom.  There is a fairly recent thread somewhere that describes skidding like this and some pictures too.

Trees that don't fair well when downed for a long time are the Hickories.  That includes pecan.  Magnolia will sour and stain but the heart holds its dark color pretty well.  Magnolia, both Grandiflora and Sweet bay, make pretty furniture.  The grain is wild and reminds me of a topographical map.  Years ago, the older trees were used for flooring.  Once dried it becomes quite hard.  I think the dark heart is beautiful.  Magnolia also has a lot of color when first milled.   Be sure to be watching as the log is opened up.  You will see colors appear as if someone spilled a paint store.   Reds, Blues, purples, greens, all very vivid, will appear in splashes along the board.  It tends to go away with time, so pay attention.

Many of those woods, Magnolia, Cherry and Maple are cherished by turners.  You can create bowl blanks or saw for spindle turning. 

You didn't mention Sycamore but it is a good cabinet and turning wood too.

Cedar is super stable.  Saw mostly 4/4 boards but 3" slabs for mantles and tables sell too.  Cut at 3 1/2" so that you can resaw later if necessary.  Try to get to it asap.  As Cedar logs age, the sapwood yellows and isn't as pretty as the contrasty red and white of a fresh log.

When cutting a rooted, wind-blown tree, watch of stresses which will cause it to roll, limbs that are under pressure that will knock you down and stumps that may stand back up when the log is removed.  Go slowly and watch the movement of the wood every moment. 

Also look under the stump for wildlife that may have made a home under the root ball.  You would feel bad if you had a stump stand back up and crush a new family of coons or rabbits.

Also, snakes may take advantage of a downed tree to find a limb to sun themselves on.  Keep your eyes open.

[DanG]

Don't waste the Magnolia, but leave it on the ground for a while.  Spalted Magnolia makes some spectacular panelling.  Don't know for sure about the Sweet Bay, but I'd sure give it a chance.

[Gary_C]

All good advice. Just make sure you get some Anchorseal on hand and endcoat the saw logs as soon as you can after cutting. In general, you should try to have everything cut up, end sealed, and up off the ground before spring.

Be real careful with those uprooted trees. The limbs usually are putting some unusual stresses on that tree. Most of the time the lower limbs are stuck in the ground and pushing back toward the stump and will pinch your saw. Even on a suspended trunk, you can cut clear thru and it will pinch your saw and still not fall to the ground. You have to read each tree to find the best way to start and even then plan to use your tractor to free stuck chainsaws.

Good luck.

[mrigney]

Thanks, everyone for the great input.  I think I am going to take the next couple of weeks off to get started.  If I can get everything ready for the mill before it is damaged, then selling the milled lumber could make my dad's retirement a little more comfy!  Of course, I will have to charge him a couple thousand feet of nice quality lumber for my services!  :D

I am very grateful for everyones help.  This forum is terrific.

Thanks,

Mark

[fencerowphil (Phil L.)]

Hey Mark and Wellllkum!

Let me know, if I can be of service to anyone out there.

I would like to do a mix of paid cutting and donated help.
Especially, if there is a church or two for whom I could cut,
the lumber might be of use for the people in most dire need.

I can e-mail you  the scoop for the paid part of the work,
if you let me know your address.  Click on my user name and
send me a personal message that way, if you like.

Equipment :   10" Peterson Winch Production Frame Mill
                         Swingblade type mill. 26" carbide blade.  can saw cants up to 10" by 20"
                                                   Can generate standard dimensions up to rail tie size easily.

                         Sawing capacity :   up to 54" dia.  by *20 ft.
                                                                          * optional set up length up to 46 ft. for cutting
                                                                             extreme beams at extra charges
                          Can set-up around individual large logs or saw in units
                          of five smaller logs in each unit.   
                 

Phil .

[fencerowphil (Phil L.)]

Mark,

Tried a personal message to you.   Ya' out there?
:D   :D
Phil L.
                 P.S.  Almost forgot.   
                                   Sprinkling (called wet storage)  can keep your pines
                                              fairly fresh for several months.
                                   Sprinkling red oaks and some other hardwoods - a year.
                                   Sprinkling rot resistants, such as Cypress,  White Oak,
                                              Cherry, and Red Cedar - even longer.