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Help with board and batten

Started by mpbspb, December 20, 2005, 08:04:40 PM

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mpbspb

I am getting ready to build a 16x24 hunting cabin out  of southern pine. Im having a friend saw up the logs for me and need a little help with this technique

1.what is the best way to frame this building for board and batten?

2.What width and thickness should the boards and battens be?

Any advice on tips on installation would be appreciated too.

Tom

I would frame it up the same as any wood frame building with studs on 16" or 24" centers.  Just so that you know were they are.   Then put up horizontal nailers.  they can be placed inside of the studs so that they are flush with the outsids of the stud, or they can be 1" firring strips nailed to the outside of the stud

Boards can be of any width.  That is the good part of Board and Batten construction.  You can replace a board with any width you have on hand.    Nail the boards to the "nailers".   Several different techniques are suggested.  One nail in the center of the board will keep it from splitting so bad.    Nailing one side of the board does thesame thing and allows the nails to be covered by the bat.    Some folks nail both sides of the board with good success.

A bat should be 3" or 4" wide, placed over the cracks in the board and one nail placed in its center line every foot or so.  The nail goes between the boards not through them.

The wall boards and bats should pass below the floor line to protect the beams from the weather.

Minimize splicing boards and try to use boards that cover full length.  If you must splice, splice on a nailer and seal well.

If you are sawing your own boards, 7/8 inch thick boards work good for the sawmill and the construction.  Bats can be as thin as 1/2 inch but I prefer 3/4 or 7/8 .

beenthere

Tom
Good directions on the board and batten siding.
Instead of nails, I now use screws. The nails have a way of working their way out, and the screws stay put much better through the movement cycles of the wood. Stainless screws are probably best, but the coated screws seem to work well too. Galvanized steel nails or steel screws will cause staining of most woods, and the coated ones will not.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

thecfarm

I built the wife a horse barn and used 10 inch boards and 4 inch batten.Looks real nice.I saw this on a blacksmith shop and I stopped and asked him what size he used.Have seen other sizes,but I thought this looked the best.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Dakota

MPBSPB,

Here are a few pictures of a shed (12'X36') I built a few summers ago.









If I can help with any questions, email me.
Dakota
Dave Rinker

ARKANSAWYER

_______________________


   On timber frames I just run the 2x4's horizontal like in this photo.  No nailers that way and the sheetrock or what ever will nail up inside.  Like to saw my boards 3/4 thick by 8 or 10 wide and the battens 1x2.  Nail or screw in center of board and batten.



  On gable ends I run one row on top of the other and let the battens extend about 2 inches lower over the top of the other batten.   I but small stips of wood behind the boards to extend them out.
ARKANSAWYER

Mr Mom

     ARKANSAWYER---Were did you get the metal brackets for your timber frame??

beenthere

MrMom
Arky makes those hisself.  Look in his gallery and you will find pics. Then you can trace the pics back to the thread. He has talent, that guy!
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Mr Mom

     Beenthere--- I found a company that makes them but for 7 pices they want 305.00 dollars. That didnt even count for the brackets for the second floor.
     I like the timber frame style. Would like to build a small shed for some animals.




Mr Mom

ARKANSAWYER


  Mr. Mom I makes them like Beenthere said.  I have my local steel place saw 6x6 square tubing off at 30 degrees every 8 inches.  Then I turn and weld back together.  Makes about a 7/12 pitch.  Drill holes on a drill press and paint.  Cost is about $25 each.   There is a thread about Sockets in here somewhere.



                  I make fancy ones as well


ARKANSAWYER

Mr Mom

     Arkansawyer--- I called the company. That is were i got my price for the seven pices 305.00.
     I will have to call the local steel company and see what they say. what about the hole spacing and hole size?? Thanks for the info.




Mr Mom

ARKANSAWYER



  I drill 3/8 holes and put in 3/8 x 3 inch lag bolts.  I put in 4 on each side and just drill them where they will hit wood.   No real pattern to it.   If you look on the top of that first photo you will see two ears sticking off the top.  They are to connect the ridge perlins to.  I use 3/4 angle iron welded to the top and bore a 3/8 hole and bolt with a 3/8 bolt, nut and washer.


ARKANSAWYER

Mr Mom

     Arkansawyer--- Thanks for the info. I think that i will try to make some for a small barn or mill shed( if i get one ;D ;D)

UNCLEBUCK

I put b&b on my shack and used 2x6 -24 on center for studs and then 2x4 blocking layed flat in between and spaced them every 2 foot going up between the studs and the blocking didnt interfere with anything as far inside work and was able to lay up insulation right over the blocking and such. I put tyvek house wrap over the skeleton and then random width boards ranging from 12-21 inch width and soaking green off the mill and nailed one nail at the center of every board and then one at the center of every batten and glad I used 2x4 blocking because the nails in the battens all pulled and had to sink in big lag screws with a flathead so it would really draw in tight . I almost put the blocking in on edge and that would have really screwed up laying insulation between the studs but laying it flat made it very nice to finish inside. 3 inch battens seemed to be about right I guess and the boards were a full 1 inch .Very nice pics and projects everyone.Merry Christmas everyone







I also put 5/8 osb sheeting on under the tyvek shack wrap because otherwise the daily hurricane winds blowing across the prairie would have done me in by now.


UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

Fla._Deadheader


  A shack   :o ???  UB, Ya call THAT a SHACK  ??? ???  Looks like a mighty fine building ya made Der.  :D :D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Dakota

Very nice Unclebuck.  I like your windows and the shakes on the end.
Dakota
Dave Rinker

Brad_S.

UB,
I'm with FDH, that's not a shack, that's a great building!

I use b&b to dress up some rather ugly buildings I have. I use 10" boards with 2 1/4" bats. I stained them grey in the hopes of having it weather gracefully with no intent to ever stain them again. I used random width boards and 3" battens on my barn at home and con't care for the look, but I'm not going to redo it.

Installation in progress.


Finished project. Still needs cantilevered overhang on front of right building.


Better view of b&b.


"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." J. Lennon

Fla._Deadheader


  Nice job, Brad.  Makes the whole place look different.  ;) :) :)
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

UNCLEBUCK

Thanks for the encouragement everybody.  If you look close you can see the 21 inch boards and then I would break it up with like a 12 inch board but nobody seems to notice the width differance . The green ash started turning grey so I waited one year and then rolled on some cordovan brown semi-transparent from baer . I dont think I would have been able to keep a golden brown wood look because it rains and snows sideways on the open field from high winds. I like what you have done to Lumbertown U.S.A. Brad , thats alot of high work on that . Its huge ! I thought about that color and there was a million colors to choose from but at home d there was a pallet with 5 five gallon buckets of something called "mistake" and I looked close and said I like that and got it for 15$ a pail.
I am wanting to know what Dakota used his shed for? I think it looks great kind of like a old train depot look . I like Arkys building too and I think there use to be a picture of him standing like that with a batman suit on if I remember right . I am going to give horizontal siding a try this year if Buzz posts pictures of how to saw it on a circular mill (beveled).I built my shack for my fiance but then she got very sick and now I believe I am turning it into a daily/weekly rental and going to wait a year and build a very small cozy country cottage like a Jed Clampett type dwelling and using the sawmill for everything inside and out. That sheetrock/tape/texture is for the birds! I cant believe Harold is way down in Costa Rica ,that will be fun to see when the pics start coming in .






UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

Dakota

Unclebuck,

The shed is for the storage of the wood I'm milling for my cabin.  I'm only harvesting the bark beetle kill trees on my place(and neighbor's), so it's going to take 3 or 4 summers to mill it out.
Dakota
Dave Rinker

Mr Mom

     Nice, i love board and batten look. nice pic. ;) ;)
     you all do great work. ;) ;)



     Mr Mom

Coon

Great looking projects guys.  The forum did it again.........  I learned something new. 8) 8) 8)
Norwood Lumbermate 2000 w/Kohler,
Husqvarna, Stihl and, Jonsereds Saws

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