calling all log furniture builders , how do i ,,,

Tom · December 21, 2005, 09:28:05 AM

You can use all dry wood and depend on joinery and glues.

There is also the knowledge of wood movement that comes into play. Which piece is drier than the other has a lot to do with having a tight joint or not. If you read up on Rustic furniture making, you will find that relative differences in moisture and grain orientation have a lot to do with the joint. Glue and nails are safety features.

ARKANSAWYER · December 22, 2005, 07:48:08 PM

I have a 2600 psi pressure washer and the problem is I get wet when I use it. So in the winter I do not use it much. I can peel one faster by hand. They are great on SYP for after you peel the bark off a sap will ooze to the surface and trun black. SO a few days after peeling I pressure wash them.

I have a Veritas tenon cutter and you can trun it with a brace or a 1/2 drill. I just chuck the leg in the clamp of the mill and cut away.

I put my legs in with a wedge like a hammer handle. I cut a slot with a bandsaw and make a wedge from an old sticker. Put on a little gorrlila glue and drive it in. I have never had one come out or any one complain.

MSU_Keith · December 23, 2005, 11:34:15 AM

Got my tenon maker yesterday ;D ;D

Bailey's has great shipping even at Christmas time! Now what to make first...

solodan · December 23, 2005, 11:58:23 AM

I agree with Arky, I can generaly peel a log faster by hand, than a pressure washer. I only use a pressure washer if I don't want to damage the surface of a twisted or burly log, and sometimes to clean up a log after peeling.

Keith, what did you make.
We want pictures

Frank_Pender · December 25, 2005, 08:37:04 PM

I use a 3,500 psi Landa, I just acquired due to the Karcher being stolen while it was being workedon at a neighbors, in his garage. I pealed an eight inch Black Locust, yesterday. It is a very pretty log.

You folks got me all excited about getting out my unit I orderd three months ago from Bailey's and not even opened the box. :'(

Mr Mom · December 26, 2005, 09:10:46 AM

I did some thining earlyer this fall of little trees.
How big is the trees you use.
My trees are about 2 inches and up.
I thought about useing them for some log furnniture.

Thanks alot Mr Mom

Frank_Pender · December 26, 2005, 07:55:21 PM

My intent is to use Douglas Fir limbs that are misshaped and curved The grain is really tight and all for making some nice benches or chairs. I plan on pressure washing and removing the bark the same way.

robotguy · December 31, 2005, 03:22:30 PM

any one done this, reguarding cutting the tennion,s in the ends of logs , i am considering getting a wood lath & **extending ** the length so that i can accomidate 8 ft log small logs and **turn ** the ends that way any one done that or see it done vrs buying the hand held portable bits you use with 1/2 inch drills and is it faster or more efficient.

solodan · December 31, 2005, 05:14:33 PM

Plenty of chair builders turn round tennons this way. I imagine you would have to have a pretty heavy lathe. If you intend on using twisted and bent branches, the lathe will be pretty off balance.

Frank_Pender · December 31, 2005, 09:37:23 PM

Robotguy, there is an fella outside of Philomouth, Oregon that has an eight foot lather set up, outside his home. He custome makes pillars for front porches in the area. I have only seen the unit from the highway. I am sure you could find someone in your area to help you design and build such a unit. Like was mentioned, you would have to have it well mounted to some big timbers or a cement floor, for turning large pieces that could easily be unbalanced for beginning the turning.

robotguy · January 01, 2006, 05:13:17 PM

when drilling the hole size (foestner) in the wood , for say a 2" hole how does *shrinkage* of the wood come into play there or does it . and what steps do i take to accomidate that. my thoughts are i dont want a *loose fit or a fit i cant get the tenion into.

beenthere · January 01, 2006, 06:28:43 PM

If the wood is going to change in moisture content, then I expect shrinkage will come into play. Wood essentially doesn't shrink along the grain, but does across the grain. More tangentially (in the direction of the annual rings) than radially (bark to pith). So, one can expect the hole to not remain 'round' and the tenon to also not remain round, unless the moisture content remains nearly the same as when machined.

MSU_Keith · January 01, 2006, 09:22:37 PM

I'm in the process of designing my first project - a hall bench with back, sort of mission style. What is the best depth for the mortise holes? I am planning on a third the way through the log or should it be deeper?

Jim_Rogers · January 17, 2006, 09:31:00 AM

I just got my Rockler Woodworking and Hardware catalog and they have listed a new dual blade log tenon cutter.
Here is a link to their webpage: Click here for link to tenon maker web page
They also have attachments to router tables to make log tenons and books and videos about how to make log furniture.
Seems interesting......

Jim Rogers

HARLEYRIDER · January 17, 2006, 11:21:13 PM

Thanks Jim. I never heard of rockler before. and they have a 5 minute video on how to use the tenon maker.

ARKANSAWYER · January 22, 2006, 07:57:05 AM

I have found the best wood boring bits are in the plumbing section of the box stores. They will have larger bits and more aggressive ones. There is one brand called "Nail Eater" that are pretty tuff. If the threads on the end of the bit are fine it is for hardwood and course is for soft woods. Millwalkie (sp) brand has one with tips that you can change with an allen screw.
I have an electric 1/2 drill that has a rod that clamps on the side for depth gauge. It comes in handy to keep from punching a hole through my piece.

DoubleD · January 22, 2006, 08:08:12 AM

Solodan really nice works. I really like that shelves and the cafe table
ARKANSAWYER nice bench. What kind of finish has on it?

ARKANSAWYER · January 22, 2006, 05:06:32 PM

BEHR Deck and Siding Sealer. It is the best I have found for ERC.

DoubleD · January 22, 2006, 05:25:36 PM

Arkansawyer I think that I couldn't find that brand of finish here in Italy, but I restore some furniture from time to time, that finish is so bright I would try somenthing similar :P

hillbilly · January 29, 2006, 08:56:33 AM

ARKY,
What size is your veritas tenon cutter ,do you use several different sizes for different size benches or tables ?
HILLBILLY

ARKANSAWYER · February 02, 2006, 08:07:51 AM

I have every thing from 1/2 inch to 2 inches. I make alot of log/stick stuff. I cut tennons and then slice them off to make plugs for holes where I bolt hand rails on stairs. I also use them for large dowels.

saskman · February 02, 2006, 11:15:28 AM

what are you guys using to hold the logs (smaller ones of course) while you peel them, I use to make log bed frames and all I used was a large vice just wondering if anyone has come up with other idea and remember pics help

acer · February 09, 2006, 08:32:12 PM

Don't want to buy a specialty tennon cutter?

Look for a deep well hole saw like you would use for installing a door handle. I got one for $9 and it cuts tennons up to 2in. in diameter.

I use a backsaw to cut off the wood outside the circle the hole saw makes.

hillbilly · February 13, 2006, 08:44:10 AM

I dont mean to change the topic but what kind of pine or cedar are you using for your stairs ARKY, those look pretty nice ,Is that one of your little timber frame cabins that you make ?
HILLBILLY

ARKANSAWYER · February 18, 2006, 12:24:19 PM

I use Wanda to hold my legs and parts when cutting. Wife calles it my $20 grand work bench. :

A pipe clamp works great. You can chain down the little log and hold it while working.

I get very good SYP here in the hills. Not any softwood mills local so I get my pick and get it for $40 a ton if I fetch it.

Our ERC is very good too and I found this one laying on the side of the road after the power line guys came by. People said I could have it if I could load it. I do not think WM would approve of my hauling logs home like this.