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First Cut.

Started by Modat22, July 23, 2006, 09:55:08 PM

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Modat22

I have a video I took of the first cut and resized it quite small and it still won't upload. So here are a couple pictures of the first cut.


No guards yet and no permanent dogs. Thats next on the list.



My dad stopped by to see it cut, he was impressed.



Believe it or not board thickness only varied by 1/32 of an inch. My very fist cut was wedge shaped, due to a loose temporary dog and clamp. Also the right guide was adjusted wrong.


I couldn't get my blade coiled up, I did it once when I first got it now I can't get it to coil. Dang it.
remember man that thy are dust.

PineNut

There is a thread at

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=19157.0

This has a discussion on how to keep a blade from eating you and how to make it behave. Also shows Tom with the blade under total control.

DanG

Modat, I've suffered through every step of that mill building process, right along with you.  I'm just about as proud of that board as you are! 8) 8) 8)

Now, lets get some guards on that thing before we play around too much more. ;)

Congratulations! :)
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Modat22

Quote from: DanG on July 23, 2006, 10:42:38 PM
Modat, I've suffered through every step of that mill building process, right along with you.  I'm just about as proud of that board as you are! 8) 8) 8)

Now, lets get some guards on that thing before we play around too much more. ;)

Congratulations! :)

eeyup! That blade scares me, The belt scares me a little too. I've got a couple 55 gallon barrels but my tires are too big for em, so I'm going to cut the ends off and slit the drum lengthwise and cut to length to cover the tires. Then I need to make backs and fronts.

Thanks for the comments all.
remember man that thy are dust.

jrokusek

Glad to see your mill is working!  I know how you feel right about now!

I really liked using a fender from a tandem axle trailer.  You'll have to cut it in the middle and "stretch" it a bit but it is a heavy-duty piece of sheet steel and should deflect a blade if necessary.  You can use the 55 gallon tops on the front and back of the tires.  Just a thought.

Let me know what you come up with for log stops and dogs.  I'm not at all happy with what I came up with.

Jim

sprucebunny

Congratulations  8) 8)
MS193, MS192 and an 026  Weeding and Thinning. Gilbert Champion sawmill

Modat22

Quote from: jrokusek on July 24, 2006, 12:04:33 AM
Glad to see your mill is working!  I know how you feel right about now!

I really liked using a fender from a tandem axle trailer.  You'll have to cut it in the middle and "stretch" it a bit but it is a heavy-duty piece of sheet steel and should deflect a blade if necessary.  You can use the 55 gallon tops on the front and back of the tires.  Just a thought.

Let me know what you come up with for log stops and dogs.  I'm not at all happy with what I came up with.

Jim

I was going to use the barrels for the main part of the guides, but silly me didn't measure them. The 55gal drums I have measure something like 22 inches in diameter where my tires are 28 inches in diameter, I figure I need around 1 to 2 inches of clearance around the tire and guide. I can still use the sides of the drums though, I'll just need to split em and open up the radius a little.

A redneck friend of mine has a few cars sitting in his yard. I'm thinking about cutting some guide material from cars roofs  ;D
remember man that thy are dust.

Fla._Deadheader


Something like 3/32" or so is minimal for guards. The blades create a lot of g's when they get loose inside them guards. Aluminum in 1/8" might work. You want them a little stiff, to stop synchronous vibration which could drive ya nutz. Nice job on the mill.  8)
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

carvinmark

Your efforts are already starting to pay off-good for you,now lets get it safe.
PRO-CUT CSM, 084, 056, MS200(rear handle), 025, 017, 395XP, 257, 316, 2094 Jonsered, CS346 Echo,Some macs and homelites and a pile of parts saws.

PawNature

Great Looking Job MoDat
GOVERMENT HAS WAY TO MUCH CONTROL OVER OUR LIVES!!!!

Modat22

ack. where I mention barrels and car body metal for guides. please change guide to guard  :D


I sounded blonde. OOps. I am blonde.
remember man that thy are dust.

Part_Timer

Outstanding job there modat.  Looks real good. 

Peterson 8" ATS.
The only place success comes before work is in the dictionary.

Fla._Deadheader


I responded per "Guards". Need something durable.  ;D ;D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Modat22

Quote from: Fla._Deadheader on July 24, 2006, 10:14:26 PM

I responded per "Guards". Need something durable.  ;D ;D

I'm having a look for some 12gauge steel sheet around at the salvage yards. I may end up using 4 or more trailer fenders welded, bolted and superglued together with a thick back and face plate. I little trailer store up the road from me sells the raw fenders for 10 bucks a piece which might be cheaper than me shaping a sheet of steel myself.

Thanks for the input, I thought the barrels where thick enough for the job but I now see point and hazard  ;D
remember man that thy are dust.

Modat22

I was thinking about taking a short cut on my mills bunks and wanted to see if anyone thinks it a bad idea first.

I need to raise my bunks and in another thread I decided on making adjustable bunks per Tom's recommendations. But it will take me some time to gather my materials and was wondering if the following would work.

Could I take some say, 12" x 6" x 48 inch long white oak and lag bolt these to my cross members, then use the saw to trim all of them to the same height and use these for bunks until I get my needed materials? I could cut them higher than needed and make little cleaning cuts as they start to get tore up from logs laying on them.
remember man that thy are dust.

Ironwood

Modat,

Are the "few cars in yard" a prequalifier to be a redneck? or only a bonus? :D


  GET'er done! You don't need no stinking guards, lets you see how the blade is working!!

  Seriously though, while studying a Norwood (alum guards)the other day, and having viewed a Timberharvester (plywoo)a while back, you should think about plywood guards. They are replaceable, will not hurt and errant blade, and will stop anything any other guard would. Paint the end grain well. MDF sign plywood, while expensive is designed to hold up outdoors and you can get plastic extrusion to cover the exposed end grain if it is designed right. Also, it is SMMOOOTH so if painted will look very much like steel sheet (very important if the "redneck police" come by) They won't think you cobbled it together from old car parts.  ;D

            Reid
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

Modat22

Yesterday and today I worked on guards. They are ugly and getting uglier but I hope they work. I'm looking around for something that I can use for doors and cover for the open areas you see in the pictures.

I met a real nice Amish sawyer yesterday, he was a bit perplexed when I discribed my monster to him. I think I'll have to go pick him up and bring him over.


barrels barrels everywhere. I was wishing they where makers mark barrels during the 108 heat index today.




For the top guard I cut a side out of 3.5 x 3.5 x 1/8 box tubing. I kept the cut off which I plan to hinge back on the piece as a door.


I hope I have enough clearence in the front and back of blade.




Now I just need doors for the guards.
remember man that thy are dust.

getoverit

I have been amazed at how the blade on my bandmills will just jump off for no aparent reason. On all occasions I have been especially glad that I took the time to replace the guards after I put the blade on :)

I dont know if it will help in your design, but the problem I have seen is that the blade will slip off, and then it grabs on the spinning wheel on either side while they are spinning down and the blade is "thrown" into anything and everything. It tends to catch on any hard, square edge object it comes in contact with, sometimes destroying the blade in the process. It would be my suggestion to try to design the guard so that the blade cant get behind the wheel. Second, try to look for places that the blade could catch that are flat or square and round them off if possible.
I'm a lumberjack and I'm ok, I work all night and sleep all day

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