Why sticker flat???

[brdmkr]

I was stickering some 2 x 4s today and started wondering why every sticker pile I have ever seen is stickered with the lumber laying flat.  It seems to me that 2 x 4s that would be used for framing would be better stickered on their edge.   Is there a reason that this is not done?  Am I missing something?

[beenthere]

I see what you are getting at, but stickering is for drying, and drying the thinner dimension is quicker than trying to dry the thick dimension.
If the 2x4's are going to crook, then they will lift the pile easier if on edge. Easier to hold flat wise.  (seems to me).

[Ironwood]

Flat= maximum surface area exposed to the air travelling thru the stack. your observation is a good one though, for your personal use this may make sense, although the stack could get tippy quick. I use the thickest 3/4" banding available (as some of my piles do an occasional "once over" during handling  ;D whoops)


                    Reid

[jkj]

There was discussion on the woodweb's sawing and drying forum about the SDR (saw-dry-rip) method of producing straight 2x4's.  The discussion concerned yellow poplar but I don't see why it would not work with pine.  The idea is to saw into 2" thick slabs, dry, then rip the slabs into framing lumber.  Sir Google provided links to technical research and further discussion of this method.

JKJ

[Furby]

But don't it take longer to dry?

[woodhick]

I have stickerd lots of framing lumber on it's edge.  It does get "tippy" after you get up three or four rows high.  you have to start off level or it won't work.  Really can't comment on whether its better or not as far as drying, but it does use less stickers.

[jkj]

But don't it take longer to dry?

If you are referring to the SDR, it should not take significantly longer to dry if you normally stack 2x lumber flat and with the edges touching - most of the moisture will escape through the faces.  But even if it did take a little longer to dry, would it be worth it if you ended up with straighter construction lumber?

JKJ

[brdmkr]

I have stickerd lots of framing lumber on it's edge.  It does get "tippy" after you get up three or four rows high.  you have to start off level or it won't work.  Really can't comment on whether its better or not as far as drying, but it does use less stickers.

Do you think it reduces crook?????????

[woodhick]

I usally sell the lumber before it has had time to dry.  I have cut some for my uncle and we stacke dit this way and it looks pretty straihgt in the pile now.  It has been drying for two years now.  If there is tension in the wood I really don't think how you stack it will make much difference, but that's just my opinion.   You don't get as much air flow so staining can be a problem.

[limbrat]

I never messed with a log much past getting it on the truck and out of the woods, untill my house burnt. But i trust my sawyer and he insist that you get a better end product with framing lumber if you stack it on edge. So i have 3 stacks of 2x6s and 1 of 2x4s stacked 6' wide and ceiling high. Trouble is i sealed my shop up and made a tempary kiln out of it. I can look through a window to check my temp and make sure the fans and blowers are still running. But the ac. widow unit that i put in the middle of the shop and plumbed the drain outside is still discharging a lot of water so i plan to keep it closed up untill the drain slacks off.
At my sawyers guidance the boards are about 1" apart with 1" stickers.
The stacks are pretty solid i wouldnt wont to move them with a fork lift, But short of that im not worried about them falling. All my pine and hard wood 1 bys are stacked flat.
Sorry i couldnt tell you more but im just now trying it.

When i asked about this subject a month or so ago the main respondant was this big old guy with a red shirt and a pointy finger i see he hasn't bit on this thread yet. ;D

[Lenny_M]

I have always stickered 2x4 , 2x6 ,2x8, 4x10 ect on edge. uses less stickers and the edge faces seem to have less crown.The bunks do need to be level.
I do see how handling with a forklift could be a bit of a problem.
I make my stacks 3ft wide  and high then use 4x4x5ft long across the top then cover with several layers of Low grade boards,misscuts,round edge or flails tharn`t worth dealing with, makes a nice cover.
                                           Lenny
                                                           

[Faron]

I sticker mine on edge.  I did have some 2 x 12's mold a little once, though.  Get good air flow around the stacks.

[brdmkr]

I finally pulled down a stack of SYP 2x4 to start cutting into studs for my shop 8).  In the future, I will always sticker 2x4 on edge.  I had some rows that were on edge and some stacked flat.  If the flat-stacked boards were quarter-sawn or if they had knots, I could count on there being some crook.  Some would make rocking chairs :D.  The boards stickered on edge all seem to be in good shape.  Fortunately, I have only had 3 of about 40 boards so far that are too crooked to get a decent stud.  I should have all my studs cut to length tomorrow.

[scsmith42]

The primary concern that I would have from stacking on edge was adequate air flow through the piles for drying.  Around me, it gets pretty humid in the summertime and mold would probably be a problem.

Flat stacking lets the piles catch the wind - hence more air flow.

[brdmkr]

That was the concern that I had as well.  It gets pretty humid here as well, but I suppose air flow was adequate (at least this time) as  the lumber looks pretty good.  I suppose the safest thing to do when I cut more 2x4s may be to use a fan to ensure airflow.