End Grain Cutting Boards

fstedy · November 25, 2006, 04:23:17 PM

Anyone making end grain cutting boards? What size blocks work out best ? Can you get away with AD wood 15-20% maple or oak? What is the best glue to use? Boy I have a lot of questions but I need advise from the best and that is the folks here. Thanks in advance for your help.

SwampDonkey · November 25, 2006, 05:59:58 PM

I think Brian_Bailey has made cutting boards. Try a forum search with his username, using the button up top, see what it brings up.

Larry · November 25, 2006, 06:35:47 PM

I've made a few. Best glue is Titebond 2. For a complicated glue up where you need a little longer open time use Titebond 3. Finish is Walmart mineral oil mixed with paraffin...proportions not critical. I've used almost all native hardwoods along with some foreign stuff. Just be careful you don't use something toxic. You will hear a lot of poop about bacteria...especially when using an open grain wood like red oak. I won't take the much time to address it as it is mostly poop and easily dealt with.

What is critical is shrinkage. Tangential and radial grain shrink differently in the same species. Mix in a few different species, moisture contents, and the board can blow apart. This is what separates the men from the boys. Try to keep the grain running the same way and cross your fingers.

Some of the first boards I made in the past years.

Just finished a board 13' long for a counter top. Can't put a picture on the web as it was a private commission.

SwampDonkey · November 25, 2006, 06:45:54 PM

Larry, I'de hate to whack at a piece of meat on one of those works of art. I know what you mean about bacteria and stuff. Wood is just as safe as plastic, or even more so. A lot of that bunk got started by the plastics industry and those producing teflon cutting boards.

Go go wood products.

Max sawdust · November 25, 2006, 06:53:55 PM

Wow Larry.............

Fine woodworking had some "fancy" cutting boards a few issues back. NOTHING looked anywhere near as nice as yours.

Good mix of contrasting woods, and natural contrasts within a wood.

Good work, now I know where to go for advice on cutting boards ;)

Very very nice work.

max

Part_Timer · November 25, 2006, 07:54:23 PM

Amazing work. Is that red oak and walnut?

Somewhere on here there is a picture or two of some osage end grain cutting boards. I think they were made by Kirk? but don't hold me to it.

Larry · November 25, 2006, 08:48:22 PM

The second and third are red oak and walnut. Rest are black cherry and black walnut. Recently used a lot of persimmon with black cherry and a touch of black walnut for contrast. Maple always works well...especially when ya mix sap and heartwood as I did with the cherry.

footer · November 25, 2006, 10:36:12 PM

THAT IS TOTALLY AWSOME

Great job.

Brian_Bailey · November 25, 2006, 11:18:38 PM

I've only made a few boards out of maple, black cherry, and walnut. They were intended to be used.

Now Larry's boards are works of art and should be looked at and enjoyed!

fstedy · November 26, 2006, 01:24:09 AM

Larry
You be da man EXCELLENT WORK. Thats why I asked here because their's so much talent in the FF. Again beautiful work and thanks for the inspiration.

asy · November 26, 2006, 04:38:58 AM

Larry,

I think I can confidently say they're some of the most beautiful cutting boards I've EVER had the privilege to see.

Thank you SO much for sharing them with us.

I'd love to see a 'how to' on how you make them...

asy :D

Den Socling · November 26, 2006, 08:00:47 AM

I agree with asy! A couple pictures of work in progress for us dreamers, please!

As for the type of wood, who cares about bacteria on a piece of art :D, but I would think that it would be easier to get white oak ends to sand smooth over red oak.

Larry · November 26, 2006, 08:25:34 AM

Glue different board strips together, cross cut, flip every other board, than glue em all back together.

The hard part is getting a pleasing pattern.

The only picture I have of the construction process, but maybe it will give you the idea.

And thanks for all the nice coments.

asy · November 26, 2006, 08:59:12 AM

Thanks HEAPS Larry,

Next time you make one, could you take shots as you go, please?

How do you hold the different bits together in each row? Are they biscuit or dowel joined?

Then, how do you join the different rows together? What holds them together? What stops them swelling when they're used?

I'm ABSOLUTELY fascinated, they're just so beautiful!

asy :D

TexasTimbers · November 26, 2006, 10:21:23 AM

Wow Larry that is truly super beautiful work!

Burlkraft · November 27, 2006, 09:23:27 AM

Them are awesome cutting board Larry............Those are some lucky folks on your Christmas list... ;D ;D ;D

ohsoloco · November 30, 2006, 10:45:25 AM

Larry, did you finish the wood countertop for the client? If so what did you use? When I remodel my kitchen I want to make my own cabinets, and if at all possible I'd like to make solid wood countertops as well. What always worries me is the area around the sink. An undermount sink would be cool, but don't know how well the wood would hold up :-\ Sorry, just thinking through my fingers right now :D Always wondered how to finish wood counters....I don't think plain mineral oil would cut it.

I always enjoy seeing pictures of your work, Larry. All of them are top notch

Larry · November 30, 2006, 06:22:23 PM

I finished the last countertop with BEHLEN Rockhard Table Top Varnish. I've also used Waterlox High Gloss. Never had a problem with either finish...you have to understand my countertops are home bar tops, or a separate preparation table in the kitchen. Not a lot of exposure to water or everyday hard use as a kitchen countertop would get with a sink installed. And the homeowner takes extra care to preserve the looks.

Wood countertops have been used for years and I think a good idea if made properly and shown a little care. I've built two kitchens now, using modified old time wall hung sinks. I think they might really complement wood counters...just throwing out ideas. There have been articles written about wood countertops in Fine Home Building if I remember right. Right now my magazines are packed away in a box...somewhere.

OneWithWood · December 01, 2006, 09:47:23 AM

Larry, I never cease to be amazed and awed by your skill and artisanship. Keep it up smiley_dwarf_finished_chair

Dan_Shade · December 18, 2006, 07:52:36 PM

ok, i'm currently butchering a butcherblock project...

I did the glue up, and have one section that's a little low, how do you guys level the blocks off? i'm tempted to run it through the planer, but i'm gonna wear full body armer to do that one...

SwampDonkey · December 18, 2006, 07:59:17 PM

Got a table/bench sander?? Slap'r on that and let the machine work, all ya gotta do is hold it. ;D

beenthere · December 18, 2006, 08:15:46 PM

Could use a router, mounted to a long board. This board rides on the edges of a frame (box-like) setting over the project. Use a flat ended router bit, like for dado slots. Slow, but less violent than cutting endgrain on a jointer or planer. Need to sand after the routing. This is a good way to make two faces parallel with each other, like a planer would do.

I've used this router method to level large cross-sections of wood (like cookies from a log).

Dan_Shade · December 18, 2006, 08:25:00 PM

I was using a hand sander (porter cable 4x24), but what a pain!

Larry · December 18, 2006, 08:27:50 PM

beenthere's idea is the safest and actually the fastest way to level them out. I call it a bridge...the router is just riding on a plank with one board on each side of the board to be flatened. Use it quite a bit on crotch sections.

End grain is very hard to sand. The ones in the pictures I used a common hand held belt sander. After the router bridge you start with 40 to 60 grit and work up to finer grits most quick.

Body armor is a very good idea iffen ya decide to run it through the planer. Very minimum glue a sacrificial piece of straight grain wood on the trailing edge. Saw it off after your done. And don't forget the body armor...maybe a cup also. :

SwampDonkey · December 18, 2006, 08:34:44 PM

Dan, you know what I mean? It's like what Larry has, only it's a machine on a stand with a big wide belt and sometimes a round sand disc on the side. Only thing is you can keep your piece more square by using the edge of your wood stock against the table/fence. It can sand wood fast, use a course grit first and then a fine one to get the scratches off. Wear a mask. I'de let ya use mine, but yer too far away. Got a brand new belt on it and all. :