bandsaw blades (Not for a mill)

[brdmkr]

I just read an article in fine woodworking that provided some insight as to why my bandsaw may not be cutting as straight as I would like.  I have always run 6 TPI becasue that is what come on the saw.  In truth, I use the saw mostly for curved cuts in 1" or less stock most of the time, but from time to time I would like to use it to rip (I am just more comfortable with the bandsaw when ripping narrow stock).  Trouble is, the rips can wander.

In this article, the author recomended 3 TPI blades.  I think he said he used Starret blades, but they were welded in Canada.  Anyway, it got me to wondering what you folks used on your saws.  Do you have any favorite blades?

[burlman]

try timberwolf band blades, sorry no adress on hand. they are some kind of silicone steel, you run them with a lot less tension than you would other blades of the same size. I resaw up to 12 in. on my shopsaw with no problems. remember what dad used to tell you let the saw do the work, don't force it. Im using a 3/4 in 3 tpi on mine for this

[tcsmpsi]

brdmkr,

Take a trip to www.diamondsaw.com

They've innovated most bandsaw blade applications, and have answers to any of your questions and needs.

[Ed]

Timberwolf blades 
Thae are available thru Suffolk Machinery. Linky
Really good people to deal with. You can't order online. Call them up & talk to a rep, they will make sure you get the right blade for your application.

Ed

[scgargoyle]

I'm sure you've already done this, but make sure your blade guides are properly adjusted. A little bit of slop will let that blade wander all over. Other things that contribute to wandering (other than dull saw blades and pretty women) are too much feed pressure and/or not enough blade speed, as well as insufficient blade tension. A good tune-up will do wonders for a bandsaw.

[Larry]

I don't think you can get Starret blades anymore and I have a suspicion they were made by Lenox.

I normally run either a 3 or 4 TPI band.  Even better is a variable pitch band they call a 3/4...it alternates between 3 and 4 TPI which reduces sound level and vibration.  A hook tooth configured blade, may be to aggressive in hardwoods like white oak and chatter.  I've not seen a lot of difference between any quality blade.  Guess my favorite would have to be Lenox by a slim margin.

The hype with shop bandsaws is tremendous.  We have all these "experts" that like to sell books.  You hear stuff like co-planer, tracking in the center of the wheel, and adjust for drift.  Than we have all the merchants that like to sell ball bearing guide blocks, cool blocks, and all kind of expensive gadgets to make the saw perform.  And of course the blade pushers...with claims of special silicon steel only made in Sweden.  Me thinks the only thing special about it is the price.  There probably is an ounce of truth in most of the claims...you just have to wade through the ton of BS to get to it.

And while typing this mess I see scgargoyle posted with a couple of good tips that I would also recommend.

[LeeB]

The shop bandsaw is just like the milling band saw. Most of the manufacturers make a decent blade, but if it ain't sharp and your saw ain't tuned it ain't gonna make you happy. LeeB