Router tables and photos

highpockets · May 12, 2007, 06:09:18 AM

I know that there are many of you folks that are using router tables everyday. I bought a Harbor Freight ?? 3 h.p. plunge router and built a table. It worked fair but I know there are folks that have this figured out.

I had originally plasma cut a 11 ga. base for the router. It worked fair but I am now going to do another in 1/2 aluminum. My main problem is getting the guides, fences, and holddowns designed and in the right places. I have bought some tee slot rails, bolts, and knobs from Rockler but would like to build most of the stuff.

If you have suggestions, I appreciate them. Also photos.

Thanks

Dick Shuford

isawlogs · May 18, 2007, 08:18:32 PM

Alls I ever used was a top made of 1 1/2 plywood ( two 3/4" glued and screwed together ) routed a hole for the router , 3/8" lexan for the router to holed to , slip in da hole . ( plywood has 3/8" rabit for da lexan to rest on . ) As for my fence .... angle made of wood, held there with C clamps , I've made a whole bunch of raised panel doors with dis set-up , I have looked at those high end tables for routers .. just could not justify da cost of um ... Just kepted mine simple stupied . Workd for me .

Fla._Deadheader · May 18, 2007, 08:41:27 PM

I been usin a cheap Crapsman Router table, to make curtain rod dowels, 5' long. Works pretty well ???

Sprucegum · May 18, 2007, 09:00:57 PM

I built a cabinet that holds my tablesaw on one side and the router on the other. The fence slides across to be used by either one. It works but not as convenient as it sounds :-\

TexasTimbers · May 19, 2007, 11:13:12 AM

My suggestion is to bite the bullet and buy one from Eagle America. That's the one I got 12 years ago and it still flat as a board and produces flawless product. But I know that goes against your spiritual convictions to buy something you can make. ;D
I am not too far behind you, but I went ahead and bought the table and insert plate so I could get to the woodworking

Don P · May 19, 2007, 10:17:40 PM

I've got several job specific ones hung and laying around the shop. Just ply, wood and screws. Two hold the router horizontal, one is for vertical raised panels (which I like doing horizontal) one for slot mortises. A couple of tables for t&g and V-groove. Whip it all together, fingerboards or whatever screwed on, then just save the jig. Oftentimes the fence needs to be 2 piece but in parallel lines, kinda like a jointer.

low_48 · May 20, 2007, 06:13:59 PM

I always look to Lee Valley for smart inovative design. Also check out there round router table insert. The advantage of steel is that you can use rare earth magnets to hold accessories like dust collection or hold downs.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=41794&cat=1,43053,43885

highpockets · May 21, 2007, 06:22:22 AM

While sitting in Hot Springs waiting for the wife and daughter to do some shopping, I ran the net for (featherboards and router fences) I found a lot of ideas for both. Kevjay is right, it is kind of hard for me to pay those prices for something I think I can make. I did notice that Woodworkers Supply has some featherboards for some $ 2.69 each.

I'm going to stumple around with something homemade first.

Thanks

tcsmpsi · May 21, 2007, 11:10:48 AM

I had been looking at all that quite a bit myself lately, Dick. Working 6 and 7 days a week at 'the job', I have a tight time frame to consider and overall cost.

This is what I ended up doing for a new set up:

The table top w/attached wood frame on the bottom is from router table depot and is their "table saw extension router table". It has all the stuff, as well as dust chute and bit guard (which I do not have installed). That's a Makita 3612 3 1/4 hp router mounted, and a Grizzly 1 5/8" 2 flute straight bit installed.
I looked at mounting it to the table saw as an extension, but just wasn't real keen on the set up. So, I built a stand for it. It uses the same T slot miter as my table saw.

The 3/8" plexiglass insert has allen head set screws at four corners that work on the steel inserts in the table cut-out.

The whole table top assembly was $139. Doesn't take me a lot of fabricating/parts to eat that much up.

It is a 24" X 27" top.

highpockets · May 23, 2007, 07:43:43 PM

Tcsmpsi that is a nice looking table. Mine ain't that perty but I think it will work. I may have to go to a store bought plate. I have a cnc plasma cutter so I cut one out of 11 ga. metal. Problem is I haven't figured out how I can put inserts in it. I was going to make a plate out of some 1/2" aluminum I have and counter sink a hole where I could machine inserts. This would lower the router some more and I am not sure if I want that.

As for the fence, I found some nice oak which I am trying.

One thing I see with my mess, it that I will have to remove the fence to get the router out to change bits. Either that or crawl under the tale. It just dawned on me that if I made the table rotate, I could lay it over and change the bit. I look at that in the morning.

If I get mine looking decent I'll post a photo.

highpockets · May 25, 2007, 05:38:28 AM

I know I wasn't drunk when I posted about the featherboards at Woodworkers Supply being some $ 2.69. I went back and looked and guess I was reading the (you save) wrong price. Lord watch over me.

TexasTimbers · May 25, 2007, 09:57:36 AM

Only reason I am still here prolly cause they haven't got all the good china put away yet. :D

Jesus: "Father, kevjay (whatever my real name is) is going skydiving tomorrow faternoon and his main chute will be a total failure and his reserve will also malfunction."

God: "Go ahead and open that reserve it's going to take the Angels another week to hide all the breakables"

Texas Ranger · May 25, 2007, 11:26:50 AM

Necessity being the driving force behind invention, the following photos are my poor attempt at producing a router table that will handle the shaping of stiles and rails for doors that I build, some 4-0 by 8-0. the insert is 3/8 lexan and seems to hold well.

The table is 4 x 8 with a half inch sheet of ply on top of 2 x 12 build up top to give a flat and replaceable surface. the bit is one of a two set by Freud for making door profiles. got some work on the table to do yet, slots for finger boards and stuff, but been busy building doors, and no time for work on table.

highpockets · May 28, 2007, 07:52:46 PM

I am going to try to post some photos here. Most times I have to make three runs at it. Anyway, somewhere in my gallery I have a couple of photos of the router table and my woodworking shed.

My little router table is designed so I can rotate it to change bits. I ran some cedar moulding and it turned out fair. I am still building featherboards. I also machineed some aluminum runners and will have a nice aluminum sled.

beenthere · May 28, 2007, 08:41:24 PM

Looks like a great shop. Open air too.

I 'specially like the 'emergency' back-up saw hangin up in the last pic. ;D
(when the power goes off ???)

highpockets · May 28, 2007, 08:59:24 PM

If you come by here you can have it. It won't cut butter.

TexasTimbers · May 29, 2007, 10:36:57 AM

Nice work there pockets. I have not seen pink studs in many years how long you had those stashed away ???

highpockets · May 29, 2007, 09:54:39 PM

You know I am not sure where the studs came from. I got the slides machined for the sled. It works fairly well. We also planed some of the cyprus. I think there are 37 boards from 14.5 to 18.5 wide. Most of them are very clean as they were the butt on some 32" trees. Now it is about time to learn what to do with the wood.

I got to build some fences and hold-downs for the shaper. I am supposed to be getting a free 10" craftsman table saw tomorrow. My son-in-law's dad broke something on it so he just bought another. He is supposed to send me the old one.