Central Boiler E-Classic 2300-any experience???

Piston · February 27, 2008, 05:47:20 PM

Hey guys, first off, thanks for a HUGE wealth of information on this site!!!! I have been lurking for some time now and figured it was time to register...so here is my first question:

I have already learned a huge amount about wood burning furnaces by searching through many topics, but i can't find any info on the Central Boiler E-Classic 2300? I believe its a fairly new model and I'm interested in going the wood burning furnace route for my new home i will be building this spring/summer/fall in NH. I already heat my house with a woodstove for the most part and enjoy cutting firewood and tending the fire, so the "inconvenience" of having a wood burning furnace isn't that at all for me, plus its worth all the savings....

Okay so here is my question, finally...Do any of you have any experiece with the E-Classic 2300? Do you think its as efficient as they claim it to be? I have seen on the website that it approaches 100% efficiency, I find that hard to believe... Any info/comments/opinions you guys have on it compared to other models is greatly appreciated, I like the idea of it meeting the 2010 clean air regulations of maine and vermont. Also, I'm not stuck on that particular model, it's just a starting place for me. Thanks again for all your knowledge.

splitter · February 27, 2008, 06:37:47 PM

Piston, I'm don't know anything about the E-Classic but I did look at Central Boiler before I purchased mine. I bought a Heat-Mor for the following reasons. The door also holds water, no warping. My furance also has a auger to the rear that you take out the ashes by turning, it also is lined with fire brick and burns coal or wood. Everything that the water touches is stainless steel. The fan is not in the door but underneath the door on the inside after you open the door. Hope this helps. Splitter

Piston · February 27, 2008, 08:10:40 PM

I like the idea of the auger for the ashes, seems like it could be better than an ash drawer...i think i remember reading about the water in the door as well, is it common for wood burning furnaces to have their doors warp? does that happen from overfiring or just from prolonged use? has anyone on here had their doors warp? thanks for the reply.

thecfarm · February 27, 2008, 09:16:39 PM

I'll plug one for Heatmor too.What spliiter said,but I also like the controlers that are used.No digtal to go bad.It's a simple design.I have learned over the years,simple is good.I looked at Centrals too.I bought the 54 inch one.I have a blower in back too.This is my first winter with the heatmor and I really like it.If I had plenty of money I would take it out and put a Central in.This way I could compare the 2 by using them through the winter and than I would KNOW which one is better.Just like dodge,ford and chevy.

splitter · February 27, 2008, 09:40:05 PM

Piston, I think you get more heat from your wood if you are also heating water in the door. A cast iron door should'nt warp but you wouldn't be heating water and would be loosing heat. I've had problems in the past not with the door but the sealing material used around the door. I've not had any trouble in the three years I've used my HeatMor furance. Splitter

Dana · February 28, 2008, 06:13:44 AM

I have had my central boiler (5648 for 3 years or so. No problems with the door warping. Im not so sure that cast iron can warp? In any event there is a 1/4 " steel plate on the inside of the door, so the cast iron door is some what protected. Stove and engine manufactures have used cast iron since day one with good results. the stove carries a 20 or 25 year warranty as well.

As far as water in the door, I would compare water holding capacity of the stoves I was interested in, not where the water located.

ronwood · February 28, 2008, 09:05:19 AM

I wonder how much water actually circulates through the door. I look at Heatmor but had trouble getting pricing from the local dealer. So I went with the same stove that Dana has. I also had it for three years and am happy with it. Removing the ashes with is the only issue. As for as the E_Classic 2300 it appears to be fairly new. I don't know of anyone that has one.

Ron

OneWithWood · February 28, 2008, 10:05:42 AM

I am not familiar with the E-Classic. I have been heating with Central Boiler stoves for 12 years. The stoves perform as advertised. Cleaning the ash from the flat steel floor is not a big deal and it makes cleaning the stove out at the end of the heating season very easy.

Piston · February 28, 2008, 10:35:38 AM

Thanks guys, for your specific model stoves, how often do you have to clean the ash out? i clean out my woodstove about every other day, it sounds like you can go a lot longer with a wood furnace, and for you guys with the CB's, how do you get the ash out? is it a drawer, or just shovel it out? i LOVE this forum!

OneWithWood · February 28, 2008, 10:40:23 AM

Just shovel it out. Depending on the wood being burned, how it is cut, what the temp demands are, I have cleaned the ash out every two weeks before. Tuesday I cleaned out the ash for the first time this season.
We have a Classic 7260. When I clean the ash out I just pull the tractor with FEL up to the stove so the bucket is 90° from the door. Open the door and commence to fill the bucket with a shovel. Takes me about 15 minutes to clean the ash out.

ronwood · February 28, 2008, 02:14:45 PM

Piston,

I clean mine out every couple of weeks. I burn a lot of slab wood so I get a lot of ash.

Ron

thecfarm · February 28, 2008, 02:41:36 PM

The classic I looked at did not have ash pan.I did not care for that design at all.I know they work fine that way,but I wanted the air flow to come underneath the fire.I clean the ashes out once a week.Could go longer.The water circulating through the door was no selling point to me.I suppose when the water circulate through the system,it goes trhough the door too.The classic does hold more water than the Heatmor too.Did not really care for the so called chimmey either on the Classic.The heatmor has ¼ steel for a chimmey.I did not care for the dealer either.The heatmor dealer had a guy that could install the furnace,which I did.No big deal,but easier than me having to get someone else to do it.I lke the way the heatmor is all enclose too.The house protects the furnace,not that it's important.

splitter · February 28, 2008, 07:42:15 PM

Piston: Concerning the ashes, the ashes I auger out of my HeatMor is like flour. I take the ashes out approx: every two to three weeks. Splitter

ElectricAl · February 28, 2008, 09:41:16 PM

We have 2 Heatmor burners ( 200, 400 ) and 1 Central boiler 5036.

There are pros and cons to both.

The Heatmor's were purchased 12 years ago because their burner was stainless steel and had the longest warranty at the time ( Lifetime now ). The biggest Con to stainless is the loss of 25% thermal conductivity. We saw 6 days a week and having plenty of slabs is not an issue. Until you've feed it 25% extra for 12 years, then it's an issue.
On the Pro side parts are simple to replace. Parts are the same for both machines. We keep one of everything in stock. Next day air is not fast enough at -25. The ash auger is seldom used. It is much quicker to used an aluminum grain scoop through the door. The water filled door......well it's filled with water to keep it from warping. Yes, heat is captured from the burn chamber and then released to the atmosphere because it is uninsulated. The hoses are a definite weak link. The factory hoses are cheap pieces of crap. We replaced all hoses after one started leaking. Our local Hose supply house had some super premium heater hose. It was spendy but they have been on for 11 years.

2 years ago we needed another outdoor burner. We had been getting our accessories from the Central Boiler guy for at least 8 years. So here was our chance to try a CB.

Pro side- regular metal with good thermal conductivity. Heat lock baffle. Tall chimney. Limited creosote.
Spray foam insulation. Snow sits on the roof. Life time warranty on the cast iron door.
Con side- the solenoid that opens the natural draft door burn out. We are on the 3rd one in 2 years. Plus the louvered cover plugs up with snow blocking the draft. The steel plates hanging on the inside of the door are our expense. ( not warranty items )

The Heatmor's biggest problem is the tubes ( old style ) that go through the water jacket. They never get hot enough to burn off the creosote. The tubes fill with creosote then start to collect fly ash. This reduces efficiency and performance plus the insulation is fiberglass bats. The fiberglass has collapse and is almost worthless except for the mice that live in whats left. Snow melts as it lands on the tin.

So long story even longer.....We have out grown the Heatmor 200 and it will be replaced by a 6048 Central Boiler. I think CB gets more BTU's into the water pre pound of wood product burnt.

How's that?

thecfarm · February 29, 2008, 07:34:38 AM

ElectricAl,that's what I said I to do.Snow doesn't quite melt on the Heatmor in Maine as it falls..Maybe it snows harder. :D But it will melt.Yes,there is a loss of heat there.I heard that from the Classis dealer.Another turn off for me.Don't run down the competion too much.Now they use hardware wire to hold up the mice home.That would be a great place to live for them.Nice and warm.I do like the building that heatmor has.Keeps things warmer when the power does go out.No need to haul out the generator as soon as I lose power.Does not surprize me about the hoses.There is only 2 on mine,each 2 feet long,maybe.They will get replaced with a good grade of hose as you said.The Heatmor 400 is what I have,takes a 54 inch stick.

What are you heating up there? a kiln?

Piston · February 29, 2008, 08:32:56 AM

electicAl-excellent review, its great to get some good/bad opinions from someone who has both types, not that any are biased, just that its good to have experience with both. thanks.

at the risk of sounding too inexperienced here (although thats exactly what i am- :D) do you guys need a generator for the furnace when the power goes out? where i will be building there are quite a few power outages and that will be a concern, although i do plan on having a generator wired in anyways, but i love the peace, quiet, and simplicity that comes along with power outages, it sort of forces you to look outside and enjoy the company of others...so if i didn't NEED it, i probably would only run it a few hrs a day....
thanks again for all your help, keep it comin...

thecfarm · February 29, 2008, 09:41:36 AM

Having a generator ready would be a REAL good idea.I don't lose power much,even though I am out a ways.I would go 4-6 hours without worry about the lines in the ground.The furnace will not freeze up because there is a fire in it,just the lines will.You have to rememember the water inside the lines are probaly around 180°,the pex piping is too,the insualtion around them are warm and so is the ground.All that will keep warm for quite a while.I don't know where ElectricAl is at -25,but doubt you see temps like that too often.If I lost power at that temp,I would be more concerned about things freezing up than at 20 above.

OneWithWood · February 29, 2008, 10:14:31 AM

If your power outages are likely to last r hours or more I would highly recommend a generator backup.

Al- The solenoids are probably failing because a small amount of creosote or miosture accumulates on the damper plate causing it to freeze up. When the soeniod attempts to open it the solenoid fries. An occasional wipe of the damper and opening helps to prevent this. Of course you can't predict the creosote or moisture formation ;)

Piston · February 29, 2008, 07:50:15 PM

Onewithwood, i saw in another thread that you have the dual fuel option on your CB, if its burning oil (like if you go away for a while or don't burn in the summertime) does it burn much more oil than a normal furnace? I'm thinking i probably wouldn't burn much in the summer and would most likely let the oil take over for the small amount of heating i would do...anyone else use the dual fuel option? or do most of you continue burning throughout the summer months?

ElectricAl · February 29, 2008, 09:34:20 PM

OneWithWood,

I have found the draft door stuck down for one of the solenoid failures. The other two are unexplained. I did lowed the solenoid to the lowest mounting point to get the maximum "pull". Still lost the 3rd one in that setting. I have 2 spares on the shelf just in case. I do check the draft door function twice per day.

Piston,

We have a generator for backup power. This winter I did some fancy wiring to the Heatmor 400 and the 2 pumps for it to run off of a 12 volt power inverter. Then I just hook the inverter to the WoodMizer battery that is in the building the 400 heats. I did this after the second ice storm of this winter. The power has not gone off sense.

I tried to give the biggest Pro's and Con's to each, then let reader decide.
Both machines work good don't get me wrong. They work as advertised.

It's like any machine you'd like a few features from several different machines.
Doesn't matter if it's WoodMizer, Baker, TimberKing. All great machines.

TheCFarm,

The 400 heats the Saw Shop 40x80x16 in floor heat plus an air to water heat exchanger for quick recovery.
The 200 heats a 4000' conventional hot water kiln, plus 600' of wood shop space.
The 5036 heats a 2100' slab on grade house. All radiant with 5 zones, 10 loops.
( I hate steps )

treenail · February 29, 2008, 10:40:17 PM

Installed a Central Boiler a couple of years ago, and have had no problems whatsoever with it through two complete winters. Have had no door problems, although I do have a friend that had the door on his central boiler develop a crack and the dealer replaced the door. Other than that, he is completely satisfied too. Have to keep the chainsaw sharp, as it does eat some wood, but the payback is great.

9shooter · March 01, 2008, 02:49:46 AM

The 100% effeciancy is highly suspect. The only way to get high effeciancy is to reburn exhaust gases as in a wood gasification stove. You need to acheive high temps in order to do that. Somewhere around 2000 degrees. Therefore the secondary burn chamber needs to be fire brick. Usually these type stoves are bottom drafting with the blower injected air into the secondary burn chamber. I have an old central boiler clone home built and I doubt it is 50% effeciant. There is a stove on the market-blue forge, that is a wood gasification type. It is also interesting that the side panels on this stove are removeable so the heat transfer pipes can be cleaned.

Ditto on the boiler plate steel being more effeciant on heat transfer. I think stainless is somewhere around 43% less efficiant on heat transfer. Stainless is also prone to heat stress cracks at the weld joints. There have been several manufactureres who have gone under because of this lack of foresight. Frankly, in my humble opinion, there is a lot of BS out there with with regard to stainless steel being the best steel to build wood stoves with. 304 vs ti enhanced 400 series stainless and so on. I figure boilers have been made for a long time using boiler plate for a reason. You just have to keep the PH of the water alkaline.

When my old stove gives up the ghost, I plan on building a wood gasification stove to replace it.

Central boiler does make a good stove.

OneWithWood · March 03, 2008, 03:03:59 PM

Piston, I have nothing to compare 'normal' oil usage to as this is the first oil gun I have operated.

Al - maybe it is that somewhat chilly air you seem to have up there ;)

Piston · June 02, 2008, 12:58:16 AM

Just revisiting an old post, anyone have any experience with this model yet? or know someone who has?

whodoctor · August 06, 2008, 08:24:07 PM

Piston,

I am installing a Central Boiler E-Classic 2300 tomorrow morning. I have done extensive research, and have visited a site where this model (and other CB boilers) were up and running. The smoke from the stack was reduced dramatically in this model, and wood use was suggested to be 20-30% less than the CB6048, which is the regular model of comparable heat capacity/output. Please feel free to ask any questions. I will give you objective feedback as I learn the stove. I am heating a 4,000 square foot house, using 3 zones of hydronic air, and 3 zones of hot water base board. I will likely post a new thread once I get it up and running since I've spent 6 months looking for a thread without much luck, and figure there are other people who might like to hear about my experiece, whether good or bad. This is my first outdoor wood furnace. I am used to heating with wood stoves.

Update: Here is the thread for my CB E-Classic 2300 https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,32705.msg471695.html#msg471695