stihl 310 vs. 280: what's the diff?

[simonmeridew]

I'm looking to replace my 034 and the dealer has a couple of each saw. Any problems or other issues with either saw?
simonmeridew

[SawTroll]

I'm looking to replace my 034 and the dealer has a couple of each saw. Any problems or other issues with either saw?
simonmeridew

Neither of those will replace an 034 - look at the MS361.....

[VT_Forestry]

Neithr of those will replace an 034 - look at the MS361.....

haha yeah i was gonna say the same thing.  however, i have a 310 and i really like it.

[ladylake]

Why not consider a MS390, same wieght as the 290 and 310 and around $50 more than the 310.   Steve

[Cut4fun]

I was running a stock 034 the other day that was like new and didn't think they are all of that. They dont impress me till you get the 034 super with the 036 topend on it. The poulan 305 49cc is built just like the 034 imo and is smaller cc wise but cuts alot better imo and the poulan 330 54cc which is more the size of the 034 would take the 034 lunch imo. I am not biased but the 034 wouldn't take much to replace it cut wise, build wise it was a nice balanced saw with plastic recoil cover etc. 
I could see a Dolmar 5100 50cc , Husky NE346 50cc ,  replacing the 034 without a flinch. But in all truth the Stihl 361 would be my saw of choice to replace it for the $589 price. Which at one time I thought was nuts till Husky shot themselves in the foot and quit Internet sales and raised the price of the 357 from $499 to dealer profit sales of $629. I would never pay that for the 357 and I like the saw. I would get a 372 for 70.7cc or 74.66cc $699 or a Dolmar 7900  79cc $689.
I just picked up a Husky 570 68cc for $649 I dont like the extra weight 1 LB more then a 372, but the saw has more torque in the cut then a stock 372 imo.
Have fun with your choice, lots of saws out there to choose from.

[sawcollector]

There are a couple of other things to consider here. STIHL makes saws considered for homeowner, or occasional use, farm and ranch or semi-pro, and professional use. They all have the same warranty, one year for homeowner and 90 days pro. I honestly believe they all are well designed and good value if you look at return on investment for run time, performance, and just plain fun and ease of operation. That is of course based on proper care and use.
So you have to decide on a price range and how hard you plan to use it.
The breakdown pretty much goes like this:
MS 170, 180, 210, 230, 250, 192, are light duty use. They have a clamshell or engine pan design, called modular, where the crankshaft is pinched between the cylinder and the engine pan, making the engine module, and everything else bolts to the module. The bar bolts into the plastic tank housing. This makes for ease of manufacturing and keeps cost down, so the price is lower at retail.
The MS 290, 310, 390 are designed the same, but have a heavier crankshaft and are considered more of a mid-range saw. All of these models have an aluminum engine pan, chrome or Nikasil coated cylinder, four open transfer ports, and plenty of plastic holding it all together. The bar has one bolt into the engine pan and the other into the plastic tank / handle housing.
The MS 270, 280 are more of a semi-pro model, with a magnesium engine pan and housing holding the crank in, and the bar, but still a clamshell design. These saws are a newer design with some more current engineering in them, and are a great performing saw with plenty of power and performance. I really enjoy running this model. The 290, 310, 390 is a much older design, but has plenty of power and a proven track record.
When you move up to the pro models there is a big difference in design, and they cost more money. The MS 260, the older 034 and 036, the newer MS 360, 361, 440, 460, 441, 660, 880 are all pro models, designed for logging or commercial use. Now you have a split magnesium crankcase, that holds the crank, and both bar studs, in a rigid configuration, with the cylinder held on with four screws, and a plastic tank housing and handle assembly. The pro saws have closed transfer ports. The older models have two ports, the 361 has four. Where this all comes together is that the 361 weighs less than a 390, and has more power with less engine size. It is engineered to a higher level of performance, and is a newer design. So if that is the size of saw you are after then is it worth the difference in price to you to pay for a pro saw?
Down the road for repair will also make a difference. I can have the piston in my hand in 5 minutes on a 361. It will take a complete teardown, just about to the last bolt, to get the piston out of a modular design. Will that matter if you only cut a cord or two a year? Probably not. But the labor and parts cost to have the dealer install a new piston and cylinder in a modular saw will usually exceed the value of the saw, even on a 390. But a pro saw it usually will not. And a saw used by a pro may get over a 1000 hours on it in a year. So it is worth the repair.
I have friend that actually cut over 50 cords of wood with an 017, which became the MS 170. He did very little maintenance on it and was more than pleased with the use it gave him, and bought two more.
So I guess it all comes down to budget and use. Research the models and decide how big a bar your minimum is and then decide on pro model or lighter duty. But I know for a fact any STIHL when used right will be fun and hold up well.
But probably the most important thing is to buy from a local dealer that will give you good service and support. And if it isn't a STIHL dealer that is OK too, as long it is a good model saw that meets your needs. I just like STIHL the best. Most of the other saw brands are similar in design as well.
Hope that helps!
Eddie

[WDH]

Very informative post, sawcollector.

[Mooseherder]

Very informative post, sawcollector.

Ditto!  Best Chainsaw post ever! :D
Just for that I'm gonna show off my ms280. ;D
It's semi pro you know. :D
I feel I made a mistake buying this saw with a 16 inch bar.  Other than that it is a great saw for this part-timer.

[Gary_C]

Mooseherder, does your wife know you put your chainsaw on the picnic table, and even when it's leaking what looks like bar oil?   

:D :D

[beenthere]

I think the saw is a decoy, whereas the fishing gear is where the action is gonna be.  ;D ;D

[Mooseherder]

Mooseherder, does your wife know you put your chainsaw on the picnic table, and even when it's leaking what looks like bar oil?   

:D :D

Dat was from a Rain shower. ;D

I think the saw is a decoy, whereas the fishing gear is where the action is gonna be.  ;D ;D

beenthere is very observant. ;D
Ya wanta talk about overkill.  That reel is a little big for my stream. :D

[SawTroll]

There are a couple of other things to consider here. STIHL makes saws considered for homeowner, or occasional use, farm and ranch or semi-pro, and professional use. They all have the same warranty, one year for homeowner and 90 days pro. I honestly believe they all are well designed and good value if you look at return on investment for run time, performance, and just plain fun and ease of operation. That is of course based on proper care and use.
So you have to decide on a price range and how hard you plan to use it.
The breakdown pretty much goes like this:
MS 170, 180, 210, 230, 250, 192, are light duty use. They have a clamshell or engine pan design, called modular, where the crankshaft is pinched between the cylinder and the engine pan, making the engine module, and everything else bolts to the module. The bar bolts into the plastic tank housing. This makes for ease of manufacturing and keeps cost down, so the price is lower at retail.
The MS 290, 310, 390 are designed the same, but have a heavier crankshaft and are considered more of a mid-range saw. All of these models have an aluminum engine pan, chrome or Nikasil coated cylinder, four open transfer ports, and plenty of plastic holding it all together. The bar has one bolt into the engine pan and the other into the plastic tank / handle housing.
The MS 270, 280 are more of a semi-pro model, with a magnesium engine pan and housing holding the crank in, and the bar, but still a clamshell design. These saws are a newer design with some more current engineering in them, and are a great performing saw with plenty of power and performance. I really enjoy running this model. The 290, 310, 390 is a much older design, but has plenty of power and a proven track record.
When you move up to the pro models there is a big difference in design, and they cost more money. The MS 260, the older 034 and 036, the newer MS 360, 361, 440, 460, 441, 660, 880 are all pro models, designed for logging or commercial use. Now you have a split magnesium crankcase, that holds the crank, and both bar studs, in a rigid configuration, with the cylinder held on with four screws, and a plastic tank housing and handle assembly. The pro saws have closed transfer ports. The older models have two ports, the 361 has four. Where this all comes together is that the 361 weighs less than a 390, and has more power with less engine size. It is engineered to a higher level of performance, and is a newer design. So if that is the size of saw you are after then is it worth the difference in price to you to pay for a pro saw?
Down the road for repair will also make a difference. I can have the piston in my hand in 5 minutes on a 361. It will take a complete teardown, just about to the last bolt, to get the piston out of a modular design. Will that matter if you only cut a cord or two a year? Probably not. But the labor and parts cost to have the dealer install a new piston and cylinder in a modular saw will usually exceed the value of the saw, even on a 390. But a pro saw it usually will not. And a saw used by a pro may get over a 1000 hours on it in a year. So it is worth the repair. .....

smiley_clapping smiley_clapping smiley_clapping smiley_clapping

Nothing more to say!

[John Mc]

Mooseherder, does your wife know you put your chainsaw on the picnic table, and even when it's leaking what looks like bar oil?

Maybe he's using that vegetable-based bar oil (made from canola oil). Just add some vinegar, lettuce, carrots, and tomatoes, and you've got a picnic salad!

John Mc

[Mooseherder]

I do sharpen my chains right at that Picnic Table.
Most times I'll have something underneath the saw to catch the metal. ;D

[simonmeridew]

Eddie (sawcollector)
Tremendous post! I can't imagine a more complete description of the differences in why a particular saw is a "Pro", a "semi pro", or "homeowner" saw. They're all colored creme and orange, and when you go into the dealer, the only difference is the numbers on the pricetag. Even the dealer saleman can't tell you  what I learned here.Thanks
simonmeridew

[Cut4fun]

The cheapie homeowner stihl line have soild orange rear handles.

[rebocardo]

sawcollector, thank you, I learned something today.   

[sawcollector]

Thanks for the positive responses from all of you. Just sharing the facts.
Yes, Cut4Fun, there is a difference between the colors but be careful because it does not always run true from one model to another, and as new models come out who knows what color schemes may come into play.

[Engineer]

That was a great, informative post about the Stihl lineup.  Probably Knowledge-Base material.  Now we need someone to to the same post for Husky, Dolmar, Jonsereds, and some of the lesser-known brands.   ;D 

I would definitely choose a 280 over a 310.  No doubt.  Based on Stihl's dealer charts, the 280 has (or had) the highest power-to-weight ratio of any saw in their lineup.  I think that was before the 361 came out.  I have a 390 and an 025 (now the 250) and I think the 390 is somewhat of a pig.  I was running it side-by-side with an older 046 Magnum a while ago, both with 20" bars and sharp chains, and the 046 outcut me almost 2:1. 

If you have a Dolmar dealer nearby, also look at the 5100S - that's a near-perfect firewood saw for someone who is more than just an infrequent user. 

[TexasTimbers]

sawcollector, thanks for that post, I printed it and slipped it inside the jacket of my Madsens. Any chance you know Husqvarna well enough to make a similiar post as Engineer so wisely suggests ???

I know that is inviting ridicule from Stihlers but me being a Husky/Stihl/Dolmar man I would like a clear explanation on Husky like that as well if you can.

[sawcollector]

Again, thanks for the comments. I am afraid I am lacking on info for the other brands. I do consider myself as somewhat of an expert (drip under pressure!) regarding the STIHL line and that is where I focus my efforts on knowledge. I collect other brands just because I have full blown CAD (chainsaw acquisition disease) and I do dig around learning about them, but I am not up to speed on current models.
I would think that SawTroll could probably do a pretty good breakdown on Husky and Jonsereds, if he would be willing. I would like to know myself.
But just as a guess, the other lines do build in a similar way for similar reasons as STIHL does. Here in the US the Husky saws sold through mass merchant stores in the box are typically modular designs and I think I was told they may just be badged Poulans. You have to go to a real dealer to get into the XP models that are the higher quality and performance models. The only Husky I have is an old 61 that is supposed to be a real performer, but I have not gotten around to going through it yet to see. You can tell by looking to see if a saw is modular or has a split case once you know what to look for. I guess I could post some pics if it would help.
I hope most of you here are aware that any of the low priced saws sold through places like northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company and the like are usually China units or imports from somewhere with familiar names like Homelite or McCulloch but they really are not. You pretty much get what you pay for when it comes to a quality saw or trimmer.
And please don't buy a Wild Thing...
I took one away from a friend and got him into a STIHL recently. Friends don't let friends saw with a Wild Thing!

[SawTroll]

The cheapie homeowner stihl line have soild orange rear handles.

Except the smallest ones, that share the black color with the smallest pro saws....... ;D

[Cut4fun]

The cheapie homeowner stihl line have soild orange rear handles.

Except the smallest ones, that share the black color with the smallest pro saws....... ;D

I must not be paying attention at the gtg's close enough. I will try and pay attention next time I see if a 170 180 is black, because I never noticed it.  The 021 I was working on was orange though  :D.

Yep your right 170 180 had black handles on the stihl site. Never noticed before. But who really pays attention to those 2 saws  ;D.  But now you got me wondering which PRO small saws have black rear handles? Except maybe the newer rear handle 200 .   Otherwise I didn't see any with black rear handles I consider pro saws.

[SawTroll]

Only the rear handle MS200, as I don't consider the 192 a pro saw......

[John Mc]

Stihl markets the MS 192 as an "occasional use chain saw". The 192 T is shown as a "professional tree service chain saw" (from their catalog). Is there any difference between the two other than rear handle vs top handle?