fransgard clutch

[Sophie]

V2800 Can't seem to properly adjust the clutch, either slips with a relatively small twitch or is too tight and difficult to freewheel out,  leading me to suspect it needs replacement. Anyone done the job and best source for parts? Thank you for any assistance.

[jason.weir]

Not sure where you are in Maine but Union Equipment in Union is a Fransgard dealer

http://www.unionfarmequip.com/

Let me know what you find out cause I have the same issue with my v-2600

-J

[Dimper]

Is it possible that the grease from the chain has dripped down on the clutch plate? I have experienced similar behavior from oily clutches in other machinery.
If the clutch isn't worn out you can try to clean it with brake cleaner, but it will probably don't last long until you have to repeat the process.

[maple flats]

I was a dealer for Fransgard for over ten years, never had a worn out clutch but it could happen. Most clutch problems were found to be glazed faces. This is caused by not pulling the clutch rope hard enough or not having the adjustments tight enough. A clutch should only slip as an overload safety and not in normal operation. When adjusted properly you should pull the clutch rope to the end, where the pulled leverwill not pull further. when adjusted like this it will not slip except if overloaded on what you are asking it to do. If glazed put a near max load on it and make it slip for short periods of time but do not allow it to smoke. This will expose a clean surface. To decide if it is actually worn you must examine it on at least 3 points about equally spaced around the diameter to know if it is worn thin or uneavenly. Years ago I posted the only problem we ever had with them and it was the result of pulling too tight, locking the drum and driving around curves and obstacles. It bent the shaft. If grease is the problem try the degreaser idea.

[Sophie]

Thank you Jason, Dimper and Maple for your comments on a slipping clutch on a Fransgard winch.

I have learned a number of things since my original posting in late November, including that the winch is a 3500 (the 3500 has two lower pulleys set at the outsides of the a-frame), not a 2800. Not a big factor, as evidently the design is essentially the same, just different size parts. A straightforward nuts and bolts teardown and reassembly, especially after the first time (now down to 20 minutes teardown with an assistant).

Jason:  remove the driveshaft guard and chain at the bottom; remove the sprocket guard and nuts of the drum guard; support the sprocket from below and remove the drum/sprocket shaft (all of which came apart reasonably easily); lift the drum and guard up off the bolts and towards the tractor side to give just enough  room to slide the sprocket up and out-  much easier with a helper; reassembly is the reverse.

The outboard driveshaft bearing seal was damaged so I removed this shaft and replaced both bearings, as well as all the drum and sprocket bearings (all #6207, I think); I believe a total of six, available locally (Portland, Maine) for about $12 each.

The slipping clutch appears to be caused by grease on the disk, which is riveted to the sprocket, hence likely very sensitive to chain lube. On my first attempt, I cleaned the fiber disk with brake cleaner and coarsely sanded the metal surface of the drum to which it mates. This was successful for only a few mediocre pulls. The second teardown revealed more black (grease?) streaking on the fiber disk. A second brake clean and abrading with an 8" grinder to an even light brown color and cleaning of the drum in  place was more successful, but still not even remotely acceptable. The third teardown reveals still more black streaking on the fiber disk, while the steel drum surface appears and wipes clean. It appears that the oil/grease/contaminant is impregnated in the fiber disk and comes to the surface with the most minimal use. Is this probable? It seems the only correct resolution is a new disk even though the disk looks practically new in terms of "meat". Any other opinions? If the contamination is from lubricant, it must be from the chain, so caution is in order for all Fransgards or others with the fiber disk attached to the sprocket. If anyone has other thoughts, I would be most appreciative.

[240b]

I had a lufkin winch and the dry side got oil in it. shop guy at stealership said to try burning the oil out of the disks with a torch. At my own risk of course. It worked! I've also packed them in speedy dry for a couple of days to draw the oil out, that produced mixed results.  Its not like your really going to wreck it anymore than it is. that is how I look at these things.   

Good luck   

[jason.weir]

Sophie,

Sorry I missed this thread - I've salvaged my Harley clutch plates that had the same issue.  If you want to drill the rivets and remove the clutch disk you can bake it in an old oven.  I baked my clutch disks @ 350 for half hour or so until they stopped smoking.  At this point I assumed all the grease\oil had been baked off - I then surfaced them by rubbing the in a figure 8 motion on the concrete floor and cleaned them with brake-clean.

Glad to know dis-assembly is easy enough - too bad the clutch plate is riveted on - any idea what a replacement disc costs?

-J

[Sophie]

Hi Jason,

I Brakleened and whizzer-wheeled the disc and drum several times initially, reinstalled to inadequate pull. Did a second time with similar results. A third and final attempt included a course grinding wheel by hand of the disc. This gave an adequate pull at first, which deteriorated quickly. Admittedly, a hand grinding does not produce perfectly flat results, but the issue appears to be oil saturation, as black stuff continues to come to the surface. Your baking suggestion would be an improvement and likely the answer, though others in my house might take exception. Literally this morning, I dropped the drum off for surfacing ($50 +-) and have sent the sprocket off for relining (estimate $100-  we shall see). The parts from the dealer for the 3500 are $200 for the disc and $25 for new rivits-  not installed. It is unfortunate the dealers/manufacturers feel compelled to charge such premiums for off-the-shelf items that they may well not keep on their shelves anyway. I think you posted something similar regarding drive shaft bearings for your winch. At this point, the winch will get put back together with all new bearings top and bottom and a clutch. Anything else that lets  go should be relatively exterior.   S

[pineywoods]

I had the same problem with the multiplate steering clutches on a small dozer. Bad seal on the final drive leaked gearlube on the clutches. Tried burning, same results as yours. What did work fine was this...Put the oily clutch parts in a shallow metal pan and pour in enough kerosene to cover the parts. Heat the bottom of the pan...Do this outside, not in your shop. The hot kerosene will lift the oil out of the clutch lining.   Be careful, if the kero gets too hot, it will flash and burn....You didn't learn this here..... :

[jason.weir]

Sophie,

Who is doing your re-lining?

-J

[Sophie]

Jason

Via New England Transmission, the sproket has been sent to Delta Clutch in Providence. Evidently the only other semi-local company that relines clutches is Boston Clutch, presumably in Boston. They called today with a price of $270, a "little over" the normal fee of $100+-. The fiber is semi-metallic (guess most discs are not) and they need to purchase an entire sheet of some size. I will reflect on this before giving the ok. Parts from the dealer will be $225. The other option the  machine shop mentioned is to surface the fiber disc in similar fashion to the drum.  Thoughts?

[jason.weir]

Wow - seems pricey

Approximately what is the size of the friction material diameter & thickness?

Reason I asked because mcmaster sells clutch lining in 15"x15" squares fairly cheep depending on thickness.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#3976k15/=5dk9qh

Cut it round on a band saw drill rivet holes and go to town should have less than $75 into it...

-J

[Sophie]

Thank you all for the interesting and workable suggestions.

Jason, thank you for the link; I was unaware of that source. Looks like the right sheet of material will be about $70.

The actual fiber disc is about 3/8" thick, 11 1/2" outside diameter and about 2" wide fastened with 12 steel rivets. I have pulled the plug on having the shop install a new one; probably they are treating this above board and honestly, but I am uncomfortable with an estimate of $100 and now a price of nearly three times. Especially after looking at the stuff @ mcmaster, I will probably have the machine shop bring it back to flat, maybe cook it a little and re-install. If that proves unsatisfactory, I will buy a sheet of the correct size material and re-line myself. Fortunately, I do not need the winch until spring, so another delay is not a big deal. I appreciate all the feedback.

S