New Tree(s) ID Help for SYP, is it LobLolly or Slash, Not Long Leaf SYP ?

[H60 Hawk Pilot]

Today, I looked at some nice pine.. it was 16" to 23 + inches and over a 100 ft. high. I'm looking to cut them into D Logs for (building of) my Log Home in the fall of 2011 (I hope).

I'm going to down load the Pine picture's in a few minutes.

2nd Question, is this Pine... LopLolly Ok for Building Timber or Not?  The pine cones at the base of the trees are short, 5 inches log and the needles are in three's but only 6 to 7 long, the picture's will ID the tree's.

I was going to build the entire cabin out of pine. I heard & read that the Long Leaf Pine that is mature is very good building lumber. Has a high pitch content and the bugs stay out of it and does not rot. They used it for keels and building timber on ships in the old days.

I'd like to use these tree's because they are close to the house and cheap enough. However, if I could find  Long Leaf (Mature).. that would really make my day. I'll really concerned about rot and bugs getting into my log home and big problem's down the road.


Thank's

Avery   

[Jeff]

Ya know, you would be a lot better off and have a lot less stress and worries when it comes to working with wood, if you quit looking at it like a helicopter pilot.

Almost any wood will build a log house. Keep it dry, build big overhangs, and have a good foundation.

[okie]

Ya know, you would be a lot better off and have a lot less stress and worries when it comes to working with wood, if you quit looking at it like a helicopter pilot.

Almost any wood will build a log house. Keep it dry, build big overhangs, and have a good foundation.

What Jeff said. ;D Most all north american trees that grow to the right size have at some point been used for log building. If you are as concerned as you seem about rot and decay, I would be more bothered by your log profile of choice than species of pine used.

[WDH]

Only the heartwood of longleaf is rot resistant because it is so soaked with pitch.  Old loblolly also has pitch soaked heartwood, usually, just not as much.  It is almost impossible to find mature longleaf, so go with the loblolly if you want to use pine.

[isawlogs]

 As Jeff said , keep it dry , wide overhangs will keep the lower logs dry, any pine will make a good looking log house.

[H60 Hawk Pilot]

Here... at Forestry Forum.... I've researched (most) of the question's I've asked and have benn given Great Information and this Really Helped me to make the Right Decision, so Please Bear with me !

The Inhert Nature of ~ Helicopter Pilots, more specifically "Test Pilot's,"  Solve All Problem's with a 100% Result or Else (injury or dead) ! ! !  Currently, I'm in the Autumn/ Winter Years of my Life and Can't Afford Any Costly Mistake's !  

Final phase of  Selecting the Wood for my Log Home. I live on a hill and when we have storm's here... the rain... can come in here side ways (fig. of speech) due to high winds and living on this hill in the open. This log home is a Big Investment $ in Buying Wood and buying (?} 410 Moulder.  I don't want to....  just pick something (Wood XX) and make it work because the wood is common place in N. America.  Adding, some xtra wide over hang for Florida weather rain protection (anti rot) is a mod. that may be over the top. Also, the on-going wood treatment to protect the pine from bugs in FL is another concern.  I need to make the best pick from day one. I don't care to Experience the Regret of a Hasty choice... months later on. it must be a helicopter test pilot thing or heads up building material choice from my perspective.  

I've done some home (FF, internet, folks) work and looked at my friend's log home that's built from Cypress. Cypress is my 1st wood of choice but really hard to find. The next choice is buying processed lumber i.e. Cedar, Red Wood (expensive too), etc.  but I'm looking for logs. I bought all this equipment to process my own lumber. The guy I bought my LM 2000 did the same thing. He built his home from white pine & very nice, he lived in Chappel Hill, NC. Regarding the Pine selection for building, I've been warned (repeatly) to be vey careful in what I chose for the (outside) log frame, I'm going to have live with it & maintain it.

Also, from this Post, I learned that -- the  Mature  sized  Loplolly (I found locally)  has the inherit (pitch) protection in the heart wood for internal anti bug protection.

I  Read (above) that the Selection of the Type of Log I use is Very  Important.

I was selecting the 6 X 8 Traditional D Log. However, Is their a " Better Type Log to Use.... for here in the South ?
I was thinking that a 7 or 8 inch thick wall might be better for the R Factor to help in cooling & heating over a 6 inch wall.

Also, I was thinking (if changing to 7 or 8 in.) of cutting a grove in the top & bottom of my logs. I'd place a locking  Spline  in the cut grove(s).  I looked at a similiar process that a log manufactor use's.  Cutting with my  swing blade mill  would allow me to duplicate this double grove process without buying anything else.

However,  I'm left with the design of the outer face of the Log. It would be easy to face the log with square sides and have seen this (flat face) log design in books & looks Ok.

I'm asking for Idea's and Advice.

Closing Note: Perhaps, I don't need to buy an expensive moulder machine and could process my logs with what I have and everything .... would work just fine ?  I could use this $ 6,300.00 for other building supplies.      

Thank You

Avery

[Jeff]

Currently, I'm in the Autumn/ Winter Years of my Life and Can't Afford Any Costly Mistake's

Thats what I'm trying to tell ya. This ain't Life or Death and no matter what species you choose is not going to change that. You are not going to outlive the house even if you build it from mud and straw if you build it right. What could happen is that your idea will outlive you because you stressed on the details and spent so much time researching and worrying about what move to make that you leave no time left for actually doing.  There are houses here in Michigan that were built with what ever tree the land grew. Our climate is about as varied as it gets. Lots of those houses built from convenience are still standing after a century or more. Unless you plan on living to be of biblical age, use whats economical and convenient.

[okie]

Avery, my comment about your log profile of choice didn't mean there was anything really wrong with it. That being said, it too has it's problems with decay. Having a flat surface on the top of a log for water to settle (and it will find a way in if outer walls aren't kept well dry) is the problem with this. Multiply this problem 10 fold if you cut a groove in the top of the log. A scribe fit round log is the best log to use for longevity as there is no flat place for water to stand on the round top of the log and no large gaps to chink allowing water to be trapped between the chinking and the top of the log. An 8' overhang like a wrap around covered porch will keep your logs plenty dry. There are lots of people that have cut house logs (flat on top and bottom and D style with one natural face) without a moulder. Several on here have. I highly suggest you read the book "The Craft Of Modular Post And Beam" by James Mitchell.  There is tons of info on log building and building in general in this book. I bought mine new and it looks like a rag, I specifically bought it because of the method of building with short logs it covers.
Build your house on a good foundation, keep it plumb and square, and keep the walls dry and it will outlast your great grandchildren.
I look forward to following your adventure.
Morgan

[pineywoods]

Avery, this isn't quite as large as what you are contemplating, but the details would certainly apply to your situation. The finished cabin is still in fine shape after several years of exposure. You don't need the moulder. Seal the outside edge of the logs with a good sealant. The spline technique makes a wall that is almost air tight. I made the logs on a wm LT40 (that includes the ends) and cut the grooves with a hand held router.

click here https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,20922.msg298008.html#msg298008

I am considering a job for a friend to build another much larger cabin, if it happens, there will be pictures and progress reports.

I have bunches of pictures of the construction stages I can upload if you would like.

[fishpharmer]

Avery, years ago I owned a log home built on a conventional foundation, made of eastern white pine D logs.  The home was in South Carolina near the coast, a climate only slightly cooler than yours and equally humid.  It survived hurricane Hugo unscathed while trees were falling all around it.  I had a problem with carpenter bees boring into it until I discovered diazinon. I used a good all weather stain on the exterior every five years with good success.  I would have much preferred loblolly logs over eastern white pine.    

[H60 Hawk Pilot]

Fishpfharmer

I had heard that before, that Eastern White Pine was Not the best choice for building a log house. I had some white pine bought from my neigbor and it's nice stuff. This Lololly (nice size) in FL is better yet and 15 miles from my house.

I've been warned & warned by folks that have had Log homes... to be careful when they are built from pine.  If the bugs get into them and not noticed, the pine can be destroyed in 3 to 5 years time.  I bought this FL property for my Son and it's his property. He may live a long time and will be faced with the bug or rot issue with pine.  I will not invest $ 100 to 150 K in building a Log Home without careful selection of the right timber vs cost and lasting time (years) over time.

When I make a Big Buck Investment, it's not done without proper planning and research, I have lot's of time to get it right... the 1st time.

Avery

[WDH]

Log homes in Florida with the hot and humid climate are problematic.  A good treatment program is essential no matter what logs you choose.  The native americans in that area did not build log homes.  They used cane and mud.  Everything that bites, stings, decays, and rots is in Florida.

[H60 Hawk Pilot]

WDH... Rodger that !

Fire Ant's have got me three times in yard, I can't wear flip flops and not be looking for the evil little critters all the time.  I can't set by the pool and not be attacked by host of different insects. My Oh My, what a change in my life style by moving to FL from PA.

I'm very aware about the treatment of pipe and it's upkeep fom year to year. I see two log homes that are within 1 mile of me. The one home is along the same type that I'm going to build. It's a modern type log home with a lot of glass in the middle part of the home and high in the center too. The inside is pine as well and the exposed timbers design.

I hear you about the yearly inspection & treatment 1 to 3 year intervals (from what I read).  I'm sort of committed (bought 2 mills, etc.) to the pine as my building timber of choice. I found the nice size (22 + in.) Loplolly on Wed., this small tract has twice what I need for my L. Home.

This morning I was called by a local timber buyer. He was cutting pine below Bonifay and had some Cypress. I drove down to the job stite and it was pond cypress and too small, only (5) tree's were  14.5 inches and would never make a log when 2 inches taken form the dia. and then milled to 6 X 8 at the small end, the remaining tree's were smaller yet. He had sold the longleaf sawlogs and I was about a week late to buy them.

I told him about the Loplolly I was about to buy and he said... that's it's a fast growing tree and used mostly for the pulp. The longleaf is the most perferred for saw logs and sell's it for that but it's starting to get scarce.

From what DanG and Tom told me on the phone a few days ago, " take what I can get (1st longleaf, 2nd slash) and  Loplolly as my 3rd choice and it will (any 3) serve me well, if I take the percaution's. Keep it off the ground, good side protection overhang, inspection and exterior treatment.

Really, if I had the $$ money or (wanted to dig into my saving's) I'd make deal out West and truck in rough sawed Redwood or Cedar. This Log Home deal is my Dream Home and My Last Big Endeavor. I want this house to be  Right and this house will deeded to my Son's (Avery III) in 2 1/2 years (his 18th BD). More Important, the house that's built
with my Son. I built a big barn with my Dad and I learned a lot and more than sawing lumber. How my Dad planned things out, and quick things went together. When we bult the barn... he worked to midnight nearly every night and held down a full time job as well. 

Perhaps I over talked (as usual) but I'm fired up and going to make some  saw dust in 30 days or less. I don't want any Regret's, Absolutley None, No Mistake's !  I've asked a lot of question's and received good feed back and feel good about the construction materials I'm about to use !


Avery

[Just Me]

Here you go, no rot ever. I know of some of these around ssixty years old and still in perfect shape. Termites won't even stop for a taste....


http://permalogco.com/home.html

[Texas Ranger]

There is/was a log cabin on one of my old hunting leases made from SYP, lob to be precise.  It was built some where around 1900, and is still around, in disrepair.  Mud cat fire place and chimbly (Texas for chimney).

[SwampDonkey]

They build log homes from pine up here, white and red, also spruce. But our climate is not like in the south obviously. But, traditional camps where made from black spruce logs preferably. Fir camp logs don't last as long. There are still 4 camps my grandfather made from spruce that are being used today. They were built in the 40's and 50's.