Po boy debarker

[bandmiller2]

Don't have a fancy debarker on my bandmill,like alot of us use an axe.An improvement is to grind a chisel edge on the top of the axe.Muddy areas of the bark you drive the axe under the bark as usual with a glanceing blow then push.The sharp top of the axe peels the bark easier. Frank C.

[Bibbyman]

Got a picture? 

[rbarshaw]

I use a 1" steel bar 4'long with a 2" wide 1/4" thick flat steel welded to it, with the end sharpened to strip the bark along the log where I plan to cut it. The inertia of it helps to strip the bark. All done by hand of course.

[jimparamedic]

An air chisel works good too alot less man power needed

[bandmiller2]

Bibby,sorry I'am not up to speed on the picture thing. Frank C.

[Peter Drouin]

I have seen a thing called a logwizard i't gos on the end of a chainsaw bar,you put on a longer chain to turn the 4" blades and it works good. but it covers your shins with all that comes off the log.  :D :D :D ;D

[campy]

HO HO HO

I use a Hoe and a water hose.

[Magicman]

My WM is equipped with a power Debarker, but I still use these at times.  Sometimes, there is no substitute.



Elbow grease powered debarkers.

[Mark K]

I have a Log Wizard mounted on an old Husky saw. Works OK on some bark but sometimes it is just as fast to use Magicman's methods. Log wizard does not like frozen mud. Pelts your legs and shins pretty good  .

[AvT]

My WM is equipped with a power Debarker, but I still use these at times.  Sometimes, there is no substitute.

Majicman...I'm trying to figure out what options to get when I get a sawmill.  Since your WM has a debarker  I'm curious to know how often you have to use these manual tools to do the job and why?  If I ever had anything to do with bandsawing I would know but since I havn't I'm curious to know if the debarker is a worthwhile investment.  lately I have been considering getting the latest and biggest mobile WM available.  Do you think I would regret spending the extra money on the LT 70 DCS say over an LT50 super?  I only have softwood like pine and spruce and Aspen (often frozen) available to cut here.  I envy you guys with the maple and oak.  I want to make this purchase the last one so I want to get somthing I won't have to uppgrade from.  Anyone who would like to comment feel free.  I need all the info I can get 

[barbender]

Bigger is better as long as you can pay for it, I'd say you definately want the debarker. If something was really drug through the mud, you'll still end up using the MagicMan's method ;)

[Magicman]

My opinion.  Get a mill large enough to handle a Debarker.  For me, it and the SetWorks (now AccuSet) are the most valuable accessories that you can add to a mill.   I make no cuts through the bark, clean or dirty, without running the Debarker.  Bark is abrasive also.  Believe me, my Debarker gets a workout every day.

For the hand tools that I pictured.  There are times that I saw beetle killed SYP that the bark is starting to slip.  I help it out and get it off so that it will not collect under the mill.  With fresh cut SYP that has been skidded through mud, the Debarker may not cut to the bottom of the bark grooves.  I also clean, as best that I can, the back side of the log before opening the first face.  I know that the "coming out side" causes less blade dulling, but when I can remove something, I do.

I don't like to see "Off Bearers" not working.  When I'm leveling a log up, I want them cleaning the log and the ends that have accumulated dirt while being skidded.

The LT40 SuperHydraulic is the only mill that I am familiar with.  I would not want to consider a less powered mill.  Especially not less hydraulics.  I have sawed many jobs that other sawyers could not handle because of the weight of the logs.  Those customers are now mine.

[Banjo picker]

I have a Cooks AC 36 with a turbo diesel...the debarker is by far the best money spent..I don't know how the WM are set up, but if I have a really nasty log I just run a little slower and that lets my debarker blade dig in a little farther...I don't usually touch the log with any hand tools...I guess I pay for that by sharpening a little earlier..Tim

[customsawyer]

I say get the debarker and another trick I use is to try to position the log so that the side that was drug in the dirt is on the blade exit side of the log turn the log 90 degrees, make my next cut then turn the log 180 degrees and take a bit of a heavy slab if you have to and this will keep your dirt in one slab that you never had the blade enter. 

[barbender]

Magic, does your mill have the belt driven or direct drive debarker? My '97 WM LT40 super has the old style belt driven debarker, it's kind of a bear to get aligned right. What about setworks- I have the original accuset, it works good but the bed up measurement of the accuset 2 would be nice. Oh well, if anything ever goes wrong with it, WM said I would have to upgrade to the Accuset 2. I haven't even ran my mill enough to get the hang of it, I've cut maybe 1500bf  : The 40hp Diesel is definately nice, it has a bit more power than the 13 hp Honda on my other mill. ;D

[Magicman]

Magic, does your mill have the belt driven or direct drive debarker?

Direct drive.  I just had it off last week because of a problem with that lower "thrust" bearing, and to replace the blade.  That thing is really heavy.  That emphasizes why you should have the loader side a bit higher than the side support side.  Let the weight of the Debarker help push the blade into the log.

As Banjo picker said, adjust your sawing speed if necessary to allow the Debarker to do it's job.  Customsawyer makes a good point about the importance of positioning and turning the log to avoid dirt.  You will develop your own sawing techniques.

[scrout]

I bought one of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/carbide-tip-plate-joiner-replacement-blade-38840.html

and I am going to put it on this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-half-inch-angle-grinder-with-paddle-switch-65519.html

then with some creative linkage to my sawhead and a slight spring load, we'll see if it does anything....

[Magicman]

You must saw stationary and have some of this:  "120 volts, 60 Hz, 6 amps"

I'm afraid that your blade is going to grab into the bark and burn that side grinder up.  A stack of regular saw blades turned backwards might be better.  You may also have an issue with the speed.

Watch that extension cord and don't pinch it.

scrout, I apologize for being so negative, but comparing what you propose to what an established sawmill manufacturer does raises some serious questions in my mind.

[AvT]

I have been thinking for about a year now and visiting this site alot gathering info.  The wealth of information is amazing and the family like atmosphere is so cool.  I did invest in a little firwood processor last spring and have not regretted that purchase so far.  I have cut about 100 tons of firewood in the last couple of months in my spare time.  I have no idea if there is a market for it but if I dont have some dry wood on hand I will never know.  Next fall after it seasons for a year I guess I will find out.  The mill will be another sideline that I have no idea if it will be profitable.  With a bit of farming, firewood and lumber I'm hoping to be able to retire from the oilfield within a couple of years and do somthing a bit more satisfying and healthy for my last career.  Thanks guys, your knowlege and willingness to share it is very inspiring.

[Magicman]

You will do fine.   

[paul case]

sounds like a good plan to me ;D  pc

[scrout]

Yes, MM, I have the same thoughts as well.
I do mostly stationary, and I was thinking of a depth limiting ring of some sort to keep it to a max of about 1/2 inch deep.  I am hoping it would at least knock off most of the stuff, if it just doesn't stick and stall for lack of power.  My feed rate is pretty slow, we'll see.  I know what you mean about what the industry uses now, that WM debarker motor is huge.

You must saw stationary and have some of this:  "120 volts, 60 Hz, 6 amps"

I'm afraid that your blade is going to grab into the bark and burn that side grinder up.  A stack of regular saw blades turned backwards might be better.  You may also have an issue with the speed.

Watch that extension cord and don't pinch it.

scrout, I apologize for being so negative, but comparing what you propose to what an established sawmill manufacturer does raises some serious questions in my mind.

[captain_crunch]

Here are the Hi Tech tools at our mill :D :D The spuds are our debarker

[jimparamedic]

A friend  has what is called a mud saw. It hangs over his circ mill has a blade that is about 3/4" thick and 8" in dia. it is on a long arm that when needed you pull it down and it takes off the bark in front of the blade it uses a switch that comes on when you pull it down and off whe it is not being used. Ill see if I can get a Pic. Jeff posted one in 07 tried to pull up pic but could not

[barbender]

I think the "debarker" on WM and most other band mills would more correctly be called a mud saw.