New project, we'll see how it unfolds.

[SwampDonkey]

Working on the 4 dent reed.

Here I have 2 - 5/8" diameter dowels with a 1/8" wide x 1/4" deep groove in each half cut on the table saw. I am winding the tarred cord to maintain the spacing between dents. Since I am not using flat wire on this reed the dowels where not split. With them split the tarred cord would also serve as binding. The ends will be capped with copper fittings and a piece of aluminum strip will bind the two dowel halves together fastened on end to the the copper fittings which have a slit cut down the side. I have the caps on there now to mark the starting point. The aluminum strip will be added at the end. Then gaffer's tape is wrapped over the cord and the capped ends to finish the reed. To keep the cord taught and in place I put a strip of tape over the cord as I advance along.

[isawlogs]

 Sure hope that is clear to you, as I am still juggling all that down  :P :P   

[WDH]

What does the lady think about all this  ???.  Like Red Green says, "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."  :D

[SwampDonkey]

It's a slow process, after 3 hours I made it 20 inches of the way across 60 inches of width. You don't cover much ground/hr when you move 1/8" at a time. I'd hate to make a 30 dent reed. :D

Been on my feet long enough today, time to retire. ;)

[SwampDonkey]

Just wanted to bring your attention to where my gaffer's tape is made.  ;)



It's strong (45 lbs) and sticks good to.  Marcel knows where I shop. 8)

[SwampDonkey]

Finished 4 dent reed.

[SwampDonkey]

Been working on the bridge of the loom, where pulleys and jacks are used to control the shafts. Yesterday I turned a series of pulleys, 3 sets of 8 (8 harnesses) and cut out the frame of the bridge.

I'm well versed at drilling holes, you can't imagine the holes required for all this gadgetry. Lots to drill yet. Kind of holding off a bit until the heddles arrive and the anchor pins. I want to make sure the holes are just right. ;)

[isawlogs]

  I don't think I could take on such a project, no matter how long our winter could be.  :D :D :D

  I do though like to see how you are coming along with it.  8)

[Patty]

It is truly amazing what a man will do for love.  smiley_gorgeous


;D

[SwampDonkey]

  I don't think I could take on such a project, no matter how long our winter could be.  :D :D :D

You've got lots to keep you busy. I need something to keep me busy, can't stand idleness. ;)

[SwampDonkey]

Pictures of the vertical countermarche bridge.

Pulleys on the left that go down to the lower lamms.



Pulleys on either side of the jacks that tie up the shafts. Vertical jacks with brass locking pin inserted during the tie-up procedure.



Top holes in the jacks go to the lower lamm pulleys, the other series of holes go to the pulleys that control the shafts. Drilled to 7/32" diameter to accommodate the Texsolv system of tie-up with anchor pins and arrow pins.



Steel washers between pulleys and jacks reduce friction. 5/16" steel rod used in the pulleys and jacks.

[DouginUtah]

Possibly I am the only person reading this who has absolutely no idea what you are making.  :D

[SwampDonkey]

Yup, I understand.

It's a loom and accessories. But, I'm sure your kidding. ;D I have been going from loom to making an accessory and back to the loom.

Maybe I should rename this thread "the loomy bin". ;)

[Clam77]

Possibly I am the only person reading this who has absolutely no idea what you are making.  :D

:D   No you're not Doug.... I get the concept of the loom... but have NO clue what parts do what...   :D

[SwampDonkey]

Now you know what Da Vinci musta went through. :D :D

[sandhills]

I still just want to see a video of all the parts together in action    I don't think I even have a shed big enough to house this machine  :D.

[SwampDonkey]

I have 10 foot ceilings.  8)

[SwampDonkey]

Lower lamms:

The lower lamms lower the shafts over head by pressing the treadles. This causes the top of the jacks to tip to the left where the pulleys for the lower lamms are located. Shafts house heddles, which are eyes in cord where the warp yarn passes on the way to the reed at the front. The upper lamms raise some warp and the lower lamms lower some. This creates an opening at the reed called a shed. In this shed is where the weaving occurs as the crossing threads from side to side are passed with a shuttle. These threads are called weft. Wide looms such as this use a fly shuttle that is launched by cords to a box on each side. Each box traps the returning shuttle and it is returned to the opposite side by pulling the cord again while the shuttle spools off weft like it would when done by hand while passing through the shed in front of the reed.



Holes are drilled for heddle shafts overhead and treadles below. There is a mid-point in the lower lamms that attached to the shafts that they lower. You can see there is a spot on the lamm bars there that have holes closer together. The middle hole on each bar in there. That is also the centre of the loom. Fourth row of holes from the bottom of the first picture.



The holes on the end of the lamm bars attach to the jacks up top.

[SwampDonkey]

Treadles on the bottom (left-right) and upper lamms installed.

[Warbird]

  Wow.  I have almost no idea of how that thing works now.  Are there different types of looms?  It seems like the one you're making is much more complicated than ones I've seen pictures of?  Could just be I'm remembering incorrectly.

Regardless, that's very impressive work, SD.  Thanks for all the pictures.

[SwampDonkey]

A Cadillac of countermarch looms is a vertical loom such as this. ;D It allows you to add a drawbridge for more detailed pattern weaving.
Right now as you see the treadles and lamms they are not tied up. They all sit level to the floor when the tie-up is complete. The heddle bar pairs (shafts) are yet to be built which hold the heddles, where the warp threads from the back beam (warp beam) pass on the way to the reed in the front. The lower lamms move toward the floor when the treadles are stepped on and the upper lamms move up as the jacks up top control this motion with pulleys.  This opens the shed at the reed, as opposing shafts pass one another up and down, allowing the shuttle to pass between.

[Warbird]

I still have little idea as to how it actually works.    You'll have to post some video of it working when you're all done.

[sandhills]

After reading reply 217 I was sure hoping someone else was confused too, thanks Warbird  :D.

[SwampDonkey]

The Texsolv heddles and tie-up cord just arrived today.   8) 8) These are a Swedish product. The Texsolv system is the easiest way to deal with heddles and cord. The tie-up cord has eyes braided along the length that you insert arrow pins as shown or anchor pin. This eliminates tying knots and retying knots. ;D You can also see the eye in the middle of the heddle I'm holding, where the warp threads must pass. ;D These are 10-1/2" long.

The heddles are packaged in bunches of 100. I purchased 16 bunches. Who volunteers to thread this sucker? :D :D



Here is the eye of the heddle.



Tie-up cord



arrow pin instead of using knots



;D

Today I also ripped and planed my harness/heddle bars that hold the heddles. 1-3/8" x 3/8" x 62" The upper lamms and heddle bars have to counter balance the lower lamms.

[SwampDonkey]

I'll throw this picture in, just to throw your minds off that axe for a quick second. :D



Here is my progress with the fly-shuttle beater. I have all the main joints cut and cleaned up. Now to make the shuttle boxes, drill the holes for the height adjustment and attach the uprights to the race. Plus attach the fulcrums and depth adjustments for the beater up top. The home made reed fits nicely as it should.

Have a good one. Now back to the axe auction.